Have you guys experienced any difference between, driving with steel and aluminum driveshaft? just asking becuase i´m wondering if it´s worth the money to do the swap?

 

I have, at 120mph+ I always had vibrations, now I am running an aluminum shaft and it's silky smooth. Both on my gray iroc and my red one. The red one is still under construction but sofar it's smooth. The gray one I drive daily in the summer and I've had it well over 130mph and no vibration whatsoever

 

Sounds like an good idea then to swap it for a alu shaft

 

You might find the following dyno info interesting (note the info at the bottom of the page):

http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm

JamesC

 

Serns to be a good swap to get rid of the vibrations and much more. Is it the f bodies from 98-02 who has the alu shafts?

 

Yes, the V8 (LS1) models.

RBob.

 

Sounds like it is only worthwhile if your stock steel DS has vibration problems. The test actually looks "unfair" to me. I'd must more prefer to see a balanced, non-vibrating steels DS compared to the aluminum one. Otherwise it strikes me like comparing a flat tire to a properly inflated one.

 

My 1991 GTA has a stock aluminum driveshaft.

 

Factory aluminum shafts are not that strong. As long as you're not going to push it really hard, a swap to aluminum will usually be smoother however a well balanced steel shaft is just as good. My custom made steel shaft has no problems handling all the HP I can throw at it and survives 150 mph 1/4 mile passes.

I'd also like to see that dyno comparison using a balanced steel shaft. Chances are there will be no difference in performance.

 

Had mine redone at Wenco all they do are driveshafts
They all prefer steel over aluminum.

If yours vibrates then fix it. Had both, not worth the cost. Overrated imo.

 

Would I spend over $300 on a new aluminum shaft to replace a steel one that has zero issues? Probably not. Would I buy a known-good aluminum for less? Sure as long as it wasn't a late 4th gen thin-wall cardboard damped junker.

The main thing on the 82-02 F-body to look at is driveline angles on lowered cars which cause vibration. If an aluminum shaft "solves" a vibration problem that wasn't "caused" by a steel shaft that was in proper working condition, then the problem will eventually show back up and wear the u-joints faster than they would have been.

Another consideration is the driveline speed. A higher numeric rear gear ratio (3.73) is going to have vibration issues at a lower road speed than 3.42 for example.

 

Is there anything wrong with the 4th gen. aluminum shafts for stock power and no desire to make more? They came on cars with more power, so what's the problem with them on a car will less power? I want one because I went to replace my u-joints on my stock steel shaft and the ears were bent, so the joints didn't go in too well and it's bent and vibrating.

 

It is what I did, stock engine so went with a '98-'02 aluminum shaft. I just drive the car, mostly highway so being smooth at higher speeds is important to me.

If it were an '89 TTA and I was turning up the wick, no way, it would get a Denny's steel shaft.

See, I covered both aspects...

RBob.

 

I my self spend the money. on a larger stronger alum shaft.

less lbs to spin up..just me