I'm trying to run a toggle switch to the torque converter to lock it up. So far I can't get it to lock. I do not have a computer anymore. Right now this is how I have it set up. My toggle is the kind with the led in it that glows when its activated I believe. The switch has 3 prongs. Supply volts: connected to a 10 amp fuse, ON ACC: connected to blue wire on trans, which should be pin A. Then ground which I have grounded. The tan wire on the trans which is pin C I believe is grounded under the car, so is the red wire which should be pin B. I have tried flipping the switch (it glows) but there is no rpm drop. I have not tried it over 45mph though, do I need to be faster?

Should I connect the tan wire that is supposed to be grounded to the ground prong on the switch? Very confused and need some help.

 

tan is the switch ground. verify it is truly grounded.

 

Original power supply to the TCC plug should still be in the car , runs through the brake switch so no lockup ( stalling ) when braking

What diagram are you working off or just guessing?
Typical TCC circuit ; your colors may vary

 

whew, i was second guessing myself after my post. i hate if i give faulty advice. it really is important to run thru the brake switch. my old trans am wasnt when i bought it and man it was bad. try a 27 mile ride thru cities with it wired wrong..... good luck op

 

I've been going by anything useful I can find online. I've heard of wiring it through the brake switch but I just want a simple on/off switch because I will only be using it on the highway. If I need to slow down ill just turn it off then hit the brakes. I'll still try the tan wire to the toggle though

 

If the factory wiring as above is still in place, the simplest thing is to just connect the toggle between the tan wire (pin D) and ground. Ie replace the ecm with the toggle. This will retain the function of the brake switch.

Or wire a vacuum switch between pin B and D (blue and tan), and forget the toggle. This will give you automatic operation in 4th only, with the manners of brake and acceleration tcc unlock.

Operation speed won't come into it, that was another refinement provided by the ecm.

 

Going to fun in an emergency brake then

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...c-control.html

 

Well I had A grounded and B was wired to the 12V. Switched those and still have D grounded. I have D grounded under the car, and the switch grounded on the firewall. The switch lights up when flipped to "ground" and with D connected to the ground on the switch it won't light up if "grounded." Could I have fried something in the trans when I had A and B switched around? Now I have no idea what to do.

 

here's a little update if anyone can help me. I put in a new lock up solenoid thinking that my last one was fried from reversing the polarity. I got rid of the lighted switch and got the simple on/off toggle. I'm positive the wires are where they should be on the case connector. I have tried grounding B too and nothing happened. Here's how I have things set up. If B is for the 4th gear pressure switch then I had accidently wired it to 12v last week. Do I maybe need a 4th gear pressure switch?

 

In most circuits I've seen of the tcc solenoid, there seems to be a snubber diode in series with the coil which I assume is integral to the assembly. This would give the solenoid assembly as a whole a polarity, making it susceptible to reverse polarity damage. This would most likely just blow the diode or the fuse supplying the voltage, but could possibly blow the coil too.

The way you've got it above in post #10 is correct. Pin A must go to pos, and pin D to neg to make the solenoid operate. Pin B connects to ground internally via the 4th gear pressure switch. So instead of connecting D to ground, you could connect it to B to get the 4th gear only function.

As to it still not working wired like this - can you hear the solenoid click? Even with the trans pan on, make sure there is no ambient noise and stick your ear right up to the pan, and operate your toggle. Should hear a very faint click.

Can you get a test light or ohmmeter and verify continuity through the coil?

 

Ill get a piece of heater hose and put it on the pan and take a listen. I'll also give B and D a shot

 

I didn't hear any clicking. It's not something that just clicks for 2 seconds then stops is it?

 

you can also ohm out the solenoid. if im right it should be 20 ohms? someone wanna chime in?

 

I don't have an ohm meter :/ it should be good I just bought it from the trans shop. Tried connecting B and D just for the heck of it and it didn't work. Don't know what to do next

 

Nope, just one single tiny click when you apply or remove power. Easy to miss it.

Maybe there's a problem with the internal trans wiring, there may be an open circuit somewhere. Or the internal wiring might not match the diagram up in post 3. Eg, there might be a temp switch wired in as well, which only allows lockup when the trans is up to temp. Afaik there were a several different internal wiring scenarios, you might have to get in there and trace the wiring.

Or there might be a problem with the tranny connector itself, due to dirt or not quite being push together etc. I encountered all these problems when wiring mine up. Also went thru 3 or 4 solenoids from the wreckers and a couple of internal looms, before I got a good parts.

Simple question - how do you know it's not working?

 

I'm probably going to take the pan off again tomorrow and look over all the wiring and test the solenoid and i'll clean off the connectors. I'm getting the car up to freeway speed and with it in 4th gear I flip my toggle and look for the rpm drop. Turning the toggle on doesn't do anything.

 

I was thinking about doing this also but seemed like a pita especially where I live. I would always forget to shut off the switch so I have decided to go with the Painless 700R4 Transmission Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit .. I figured for $140 it would be worth the month..

 

If I Could start over I would've just bought the TCI kit and be done with it. Not giving up yet though

 

I just used one of these, wired in series with the solenoid, brake switch and 4th switch:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...=SMP-VX3&dds=1

Fully automatic operation for much cheaper than Painless or TCI. They are ridiculous expensive for what they do imo.


Good move, I bet you find it's not wired as you expect internally. Trace the wiring from pin A, through the solenoid, all the way back to pin D.


Cool, just wanted to make sure you weren't testing it at idle or something and expecting a result. You aren't using the 4th switch (pin B), so lockup should be occurring from 2nd up. You'll definitely know it, and then start re-considering the use of a manual toggle