mr_han_solo

iTrader: (2)

Just finished my engine and was fixing to mount the flywheel, starter, bell-housing, clutch and transmission when I ran into this issue. My starter doesn't line up with my flywheel.



I am running the normal T-5 setup and it looks like all of the T-5 stuff is made for a straight across starter. My block is an early 010 from the early 70's and it only has the staggered holes.

From what I've read one solution is to buy one of the universal starters like this one:


From what I've read I just need to use the bolt holes provided on that started and line them up with my staggered pattern and the starter should work. I'm not understand this though, wouldn't the starter gear be hitting my flywheel at an angle if I do it that way? Also, wouldn't the starter itself be angled away from the block?

Just hoping someone can help me answer these question or provide a picture of how it works so I can see get my engine up and running.

Thanks.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

If you only have staggered holes in block you can't use any aftermarket inline version.
Unless you get the 3rd hole drilled ( then you could use any inline pattern starter )it is going to be expensive

Custom staggered pattern 153 tooth starter required
See
http://www.dougherbert.com/minihight...r-p-21999.html
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...psbp/overview/

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

There is no such thing as a starter that uses the staggered pattern, but fits the 12.8" flywheel.

That's all there is to that.

Reason being, the staggered pattern is for the 14" flywheel, meaning it holds the starter about 5/8" or so (half of 14" - 12.8") farther from the crank. So, imagine a starter in that spot, with that inner bolt going through the nosepiece right there next to the starter drive. Now imagine moving that starter drive 5/8" closer to the crank, while that bolt is still there. It should be PRETTY OBVIOUS, the bolt will have to go RIGHT DIRECTLY THROUGH THE MIDDLE of the starter drive. Ain't happenin. There IS NO "magic" starter that will fix this problem, because the problem isn't something about the STARTER, it's about WHERE THE BOLT WOULD BE.

You have EXACTLY ONE option:

Have the hole drilled. Remember, it needs to be PRECISE, and you only get ONE SHOT at it; mess it up, and you basically scrap the block for this application. And of course, it's a "special" hole, too; it has a 3/8" deep section that the "shoulder" on the equally "special" starter bolt fits down into, to make a sort of dowel pin arrangement to positively locate it to the block. It's not the same as a water pump bolt hole or something.

It's a good thing you don't already have the engine in the car. That seems to be when most people discover this.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

"This starter is designed to fit staggered bolt pattern blocks with either a 168 or a 153 tooth flywheel or flexplate.
The adapter bolts to the engine block, then one of the starter bolts attaches to the adapter and the other to the engine block.
This will not fit blocks with the inline pattern."

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That might be the only possible way:

Make the bolt in question so short, it stays out of the way.

I still bet it's cheeeper, ESPECIALLY in the "long run" (like, 1st time it wears out and you need a new one), to just drill the block and be done with it, regardless.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Undoubtedly , that is what I did on the Vortec block I used for my 383 build

Just giving the OP the " only " other option