This is the place I know someone could clear this up.. Viper forums are useless..

TR-6060 transmission from an SRT-10 pickup, Viper slave cylinder with correct .250" spacer installed.

The master cylinder is from a 2004 Viper, brand new from ROE Racing.

Replaced slave, as the SRT-10 truck slave didn't allow the Viper master cylinder quick connect to fit in, and was impossible to press the pedal down..

We've remedied that, the pedal moves freely, and fluid is coming out of the bleeder, but it doesn't seem to disengage the clutch. I used a vacuum bleeder, it pulled fluid through, but made little difference, is there a trick to bleeding these that I haven't thought of?

Input is greatly appreciated.

 

On the GM setups like that with concentric slave w/bleeder, you need to compress the slave so when compressed, your air gap
is about .125" as a starting point. Blah blah blah, everyone uses a .250" shim but that's basics #1 on these slaves.

Basic bleeding can be a simple in-car bench bleed. Barely crack the bleeder so it basically takes pedal pressure to push much anything out. Get a 90 spark plug boot and insert hose tight in it. Put on it like the bleeder like the slave nipple is a spark plug. Route the hose up and into the reservoir, pointing down. Pump the pedal for a few minutes. In under 5 minutes, all air will have had opportunity to fall out of suspension. Close the bleeder. If it fails to disengage the clutch, it's not an air issue.

Outside that, when did it last work and what has been changed?

 

It's a custom build, the engine is an 8.3L from an '04 Viper, the trans is from a Ram SRT-10 truck, research shows the truck transmission to the car engine requires the .250" shim..

We thought it worked when we had it outside of the car, but you can't turn the driveshaft when the clutch is pressed in.

 

Research all you want, but its much better to just measure it
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html

Also, new hydraulics, esp HTOBs take a bit of pumping to get fully bled. If you hit it with the speed bleeder and its still got air in it, then try pumping it repeatedly then bleeding it again

Not disengaging can be cause by air in the system or not enough shim

 

I talked to a GM mechanic, as I had bled it many times, and it just felt mushy.. I hooked the bleeder up to the reservoir line going down to the slave, and pumped that sucker til fluid came up.. Turned the bottle over, and let it suck the fluid back down..

It's a really heavy clutch, and it's definitely disengaging now, Thanks!