Busted Torque Arm mount - jack up the car enough to work!
Busted Torque Arm mount - jack up the car enough to work!
So, I found all the bits at gmpartsdirect.com, and a local nut/bolt place that just handed the fasteners to me N/C (!) Thanks Suburban!
Now, how the heck do you get a snakes-belly-low thirdgen up high enough in the air to actually work underneath it?
Rear end? No problem. Thanks axle. Front end? Big problem. Need a good place to put the jack that won't bend the s!#$% out of the structure.
Would a 2X8 on the jack pad spread the load enough under the front lcas to get some jackstands underneath it?
Thanks!
Now, how the heck do you get a snakes-belly-low thirdgen up high enough in the air to actually work underneath it?
Rear end? No problem. Thanks axle. Front end? Big problem. Need a good place to put the jack that won't bend the s!#$% out of the structure.
Would a 2X8 on the jack pad spread the load enough under the front lcas to get some jackstands underneath it?
Thanks!
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,520
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: Busted Torque Arm mount - jack up the car enough to work!
Drive up on some wood first and yes , the front LCAs are aValid lifting point.
Last edited by jmd; Oct 27, 2015 at 06:02 PM.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,906
Likes: 240
From: Chicagoland Suburbs
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LT1, AFR 195cc, 231/239 LE cam.
Transmission: M28 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10bolt waiting to explode.
Re: Busted Torque Arm mount - jack up the car enough to work!
I usually jack up the rear of the car first and get the rear on jack stands.
Then I jack from the front sub-frame rails and when high enough put jack stands under the A-Arms.
I usually now use a block of 2x4 to protect the rails from the jack pad.
Then I jack from the front sub-frame rails and when high enough put jack stands under the A-Arms.
I usually now use a block of 2x4 to protect the rails from the jack pad.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 17
From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Busted Torque Arm mount - jack up the car enough to work!
Shop floor jack under the K member, dead center... Jack it up and put stands under the A arms.. Or put 'oil change' ramps under the front tires after it's jacked up
Or drive up on those yellow metal or black plastic 'oil change' ramps in the front (use a 2x6 or 2x8 to lengthen the ramps enough to get up them with out dragging)
Rear... Shop floor jack under the center of rear axle housing, jack up and put stands under axle tubes or 'oil change' ramps under tires..
I have done the above at least a thousand times in the past 17 years
Or drive up on those yellow metal or black plastic 'oil change' ramps in the front (use a 2x6 or 2x8 to lengthen the ramps enough to get up them with out dragging)
Rear... Shop floor jack under the center of rear axle housing, jack up and put stands under axle tubes or 'oil change' ramps under tires..
I have done the above at least a thousand times in the past 17 years
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 48
From: Tracy, CA
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: TH700R4
Re: Busted Torque Arm mount - jack up the car enough to work!
If I need to get all four corners up in the air, I start at the front.
Working on one side of the car, I approach the front of the car straight on with the floor jack between the tire and air deflector, putting the jack pad under one of the control arm spring pockets and lifting it high enough to put a screwed together stack of 1x12 pine boards under the tire. This is to get the front end high enough so the jack handle can swing during the next step.
I let the car down onto the boards and (still working from one side of the car) approach the center of the cross member diagonally from the lifted corner (between the tire and air deflector), putting the jack pad centered under the k-member and continue lifting.
I move the stack of boards and secure the car with stands under the control arm spring pockets.
Working on one side of the car, I approach the front of the car straight on with the floor jack between the tire and air deflector, putting the jack pad under one of the control arm spring pockets and lifting it high enough to put a screwed together stack of 1x12 pine boards under the tire. This is to get the front end high enough so the jack handle can swing during the next step.
I let the car down onto the boards and (still working from one side of the car) approach the center of the cross member diagonally from the lifted corner (between the tire and air deflector), putting the jack pad centered under the k-member and continue lifting.
I move the stack of boards and secure the car with stands under the control arm spring pockets.
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