I looked for a while, but I don't see many people (really anyone) talking about the pinion shims for the 9 bolt. I just took my old one apart and there was a shim under the cup for the head bearing and the housing. I messed it up good because I didn't realize it was there. Is this normal? I am used to the shim being between the pinion and the cone. I have been looking at "pinion shims" but no one has the spec, I am not opposed to calling Yukon, but it is the weekend and I am trying to get all the parts ordered for Monday morning.

Yukon has two listed ;
"55008 Pinion depth shims for GM 7.5", 7.75", 8.2" & 12 bolt truck


Pinion depth shims for GM 7.5", 7.625", 7.6 IFS, 7.6 IRS, 7.75", 8.2", 1955-1964 passenger car and 12 bolt car and truck"

and

"55064 Pinion depth shim kit for Toyota8", GM 7.5", 8.2" & 12 bolt truck


Pinion depth shim kit for Toyota 7.5", 8" and V6"

Anyone have any experience with the rebuild, or the correct P/N?

 

I've removed the shims from behind the cup and put shims behind the bearing. It doesn't matter which place you put them, just as long as you get the depth correct. Many of the Dana rear ends also put the shims behind the cup.

 

That may make things easier. Are 10 bolt shims about the right size to do that with?

 

I can't remember which shims I used. I'll try to remember to check later. The 10 bolt shims may work.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Crap, I forgot to look. I'll try again later. If you have the number off of the inner pinion bearing I might be able to tell you which shim you need.

 

It is still on the pinion, but the Timken catalog says HM89446 for the inner cone

 

Honestly, I am surprised you're still around. I thought you retired?

 

I closed my business, but I still work on stuff as a hobby.

 

Oh, that's cool. Thank you for your continued support. I see you on several boards giving help.

 

I bought some pinion shims for the cone to side gear contact for a 10 bolt, as recomended by reading here and youtube and it looks like the pinion shims for a 10 bolt will work. The fit is a bit sloppy, the ID is too large, but it should work. I won't be making big power so it shouldn't matter too much, it's a stock V6 right now and I only plan on putting a stock (mostly) 4.8 LR4 in it in the future and I won't ever race it.

Unless you have another recommendation I will just order another set of those

 

Sorry, my memory sucks. I forgot to check the pinion shims to see what you need to use. I'll try again tonight.

 

Yeah, no worries, my memory sucks too. I tell people I have CRS all the time.

It looks like those 10 bolt shims will be perfect. If the ID was any tighter it would actually choke up on the radius behind the pinion-to-shaft transition anyway, so I will just roll with them.

Thanks for the help

 

OK, sounds good.

 

Ratech sells them... I got all my shims from there... diff is still kickin years later.

 

By the way, I have a youtube video on my experience rebuilding and shimming the 9 bolt posi if you're curious. Would be a good time to do it and prevent damage down the road when the cones bottom out. The information in it is as accurate as I could make it at the time, 9 bolt info is hard to come by and I've learned a few things since then.

 

I already ground and shimmed the cones, thanks

 

Most importantly there is no generic shim for any gear ratio, the pinion head is etched with a number for the pinion depth. So you have to set up the pinion and check it with a tool like one made by T&D called a pinion depth checker. And this kinda stinks because you have to press the bearing on top of the shims on the pinion gear then install it and check the depth. However there are two methods that can make this easier.
1) hone a new pinion bearing inner race that way it will slide on the pinion shaft bearing journal ” this bearing is only used for setup”
check the depth and of your shimming and if it meets the number etched on the pinion head disassemble the pinion and assemble the pinion with new bearing and install into the rear end
or
2)shim under the pinion bearing outer race into the diff housing” this is the most likely place you’ll find the original shims installed in the first place.

 

You replied a thread where the last post was over 7 years ago? Lol

 

Why yes I did. I have nothing else to do except for contributing some value to this forum