Upgrading to a carbon Fider drive shaft..

There's a few companies out there making them..cost ranges between $1000 and $1500.
Lighter than aluminum by 2 to 3 pounds..( it's all about strength and lightweight)
The carbon fiber Properties run much more quiet than aluminum or Steel
And in the event of a failure they turned back to fiber not shrapnel
Anybody else running one ?

 

Most of the setups I've seen with them are the guys running mega power looking for every ounce of extra hp. Have you gone lightweight flexplate already? I'm assuming you have a DS loop as well?

 

Perfectly good aluminum already?
Not enough gain from the carbon shaft to bother.

 

alum flexplate yes.. eng set up with alum Damper as also.

Dropping as much weight but keeping the car from a rattle trap.
plastic head lights. glasstek hood.(16lbs lighter then my other glasshood)

I did skip the alum block with this eng..(90lbs diff) but was $2500 more then the $1800 for this block..
but going to get one to try it out. as they are down to $2500 now just the block..sweet..

every thing that is lighter as been picked up for the assembley.. the drive shaft was the last thing I was thinking about..
did the 3rd member just a few weeks ago..note the yoke was turrnd down. dropping another 2lbs off of it (fast shafts)

keeping the iron one with the 4.11. just in case

 

Just remember Drive shafts grow in length over time. A guy I know had that happen and he lost his trans and a bunch of other things.

 

if his did that it was not the right size to start with...

 

It actually was. It grew that much. It wasn't anything special or custom and was the exact same length as the stock aluminum 4thgen shaft we removed, had pix of them side by side. This was back when they 1st came out soo they may be better now. It wasn't the only one I had seen do it back when I was in the game pretty heavy.

 

working with 2 diff makers... seems the WT savings will be not as much as I was hoping.
want more then 3lbs don't think we will make it..

billet lug nuts cut almost that much for $170.

 

had a buddy spend $2,000 on a titanium nut & bolt kit for his bike. thought he was nuts, but it dropped 11 pounds off the bike IIRC. couldnt imagine the cost and weight savings on a car.
axles gun drilled?

 

gun drilled no...but drop 20lbs off the rear end it's self
the bead lock wheels are looking like they are a bit heavy..

 

What about the gfx and glass hatch?

 

Keeping all the factory Locks .and switches.. Not to cut it up and make it into a rattletrap.. It's not a race car.. Yet

All Glass power windows power locks tilt.. power steering power brakes I did get rid of the cruise control and the power seats.. And the AC was deleted

Pick up a 2016-2017 COPO Camaro build sheet.. You'll be surprised....I was
You can't register them for Street operation.. Sad..

 

I thought they made some nice high quality lexan hatch glass pieces now?
Very scratch resistant with various thicknesses. I feel that's a viable option at your point.

 

add the cash up... its with in a few bucks. to go with a aluminum block from the start..
as for the back glass..tryn to keep 65% of the WT at the back of the car..
but yes they do make some nice light wt window parts now.

 

the gun drilled axles might be a nice addition? losing some rotational, unsprung weight is always good.
Moser says its only $100 on one of they're pages.
http://www.moserengineering.com/part...ng-option.html

 

i had 3lbs removed from the ring gear...wana keep keep the axels as they are..they are only 31 spline. and as strong as I need at this point..dont want to play with that yet.
added a aluminum fuel tank dropping 6 lbs there. ($713)
but by the time the fuel pumps and filters are added. it only comes out to 2lbs saved