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Never removed/installed a T5 before. Hence amature questions.
Removal
Can the T5 be removed from car by separating from bellhousing, leaving bell housing attached to engine? My guess is yes.
Installation
Can the T5 be reinstalled to bell housing if the bellhousing is still attached to engine? Are there alignment issues for input shaft into bellhousing components with this method?
Reference Images
Attached are reference images from a thread nine years ago. They show bellhousing on car, then attached T5. Indicates that's the way it can or should be done?
Purpose
Developed a significant knock (or heavy-sounding rattle) last night emanating from transmission area. Haven't had time to isolate. Possibly unrelated to transmission. But inquiring in advance with anticipation noise is from bellhousing or T5.
Yes, after removing driveshaft, torque arm and wing, the trans comes off the bellhousing with 4 bolts. Installs the same way. Might have to get somebody to press the clutch pedal when reinstalling the trans to help any small alignment issues you might have.
Yes you can do it that way. In fact that's the "standard" method. It's usually more difficult for most people's situation to install the bell & trans together. Although if you're pulling the engine and re-installing it, that's the better way to do it.
You align the clutch to the pilot with an alignment tool which often comes with a new clutch or can be purchased separately. Use it as you install the clutch to the flywheel, and get the disc centered so that the tool comes out and back in totally freely. Fully assemble and install the clutch hydraulics and fork before putting in the trans. Then as 86 said, after stabbing the trans up in there by hand as far as you can get it to go, put in all 4 bolts FINGER TIGHT ONLY, and have your assistant push the clutch pedal, while you wiggle the trans to get it to go in. You can wiggle it one way and tighten the bolts again FINGER TIGHT, then the other and tighten them FINGER TIGHT, and so on until it's up against the bell with the bolts FINGER TIGHT ONLY. Sometimes, usually in fact, the trans will just plug right up in there without even having to do that much, maybe even without having to push the clutch pedal.
Does your transmission leak fluid from the front, between it and the bell?
I do not think it leaks, but not confirmed. Started i yesterday morning in garage before work and sound was not there. Fingers crossed it is something else making a wicked rattle/knock when car is warm. Did not have a consistent RPM rattle, and probably too slow to be RPM timed. More troubleshooting this weekend.
Thanks for the information. Gives peace of mind that will not be a massive undertaking when it does happen. Seems easier than pulling an automatic, trying to get those hidden bellhousing bolts.
I do not think it leaks, but not confirmed. Started i yesterday morning in garage before work and sound was not there. Fingers crossed it is something else making a wicked rattle/knock when car is warm. Did not have a consistent RPM rattle, and probably too slow to be RPM timed. More troubleshooting this weekend.
Thanks for the information. Gives peace of mind that will not be a massive undertaking when it does happen. Seems easier than pulling an automatic, trying to get those hidden bellhousing bolts.
Yes you can do it that way. In fact that's the "standard" method. It's usually more difficult for most people's situation to install the bell & trans together. Although if you're pulling the engine and re-installing it, that's the better way to do it.
You align the clutch to the pilot with an alignment tool which often comes with a new clutch or can be purchased separately. Use it as you install the clutch to the flywheel, and get the disc centered so that the tool comes out and back in totally freely. Fully assemble and install the clutch hydraulics and fork before putting in the trans. Then as 86 said, after stabbing the trans up in there by hand as far as you can get it to go, put in all 4 bolts FINGER TIGHT ONLY, and have your assistant push the clutch pedal, while you wiggle the trans to get it to go in. You can wiggle it one way and tighten the bolts again FINGER TIGHT, then the other and tighten them FINGER TIGHT, and so on until it's up against the bell with the bolts FINGER TIGHT ONLY. Sometimes, usually in fact, the trans will just plug right up in there without even having to do that much, maybe even without having to push the clutch pedal.
Does your transmission leak fluid from the front, between it and the bell?
I have a similar issue and i have a leak there i can attach a video if you need.
Yes you can do it that way. In fact that's the "standard" method. It's usually more difficult for most people's situation to install the bell & trans together. Although if you're pulling the engine and re-installing it, that's the better way to do it.
You align the clutch to the pilot with an alignment tool which often comes with a new clutch or can be purchased separately. Use it as you install the clutch to the flywheel, and get the disc centered so that the tool comes out and back in totally freely. Fully assemble and install the clutch hydraulics and fork before putting in the trans. Then as 86 said, after stabbing the trans up in there by hand as far as you can get it to go, put in all 4 bolts FINGER TIGHT ONLY, and have your assistant push the clutch pedal, while you wiggle the trans to get it to go in. You can wiggle it one way and tighten the bolts again FINGER TIGHT, then the other and tighten them FINGER TIGHT, and so on until it's up against the bell with the bolts FINGER TIGHT ONLY. Sometimes, usually in fact, the trans will just plug right up in there without even having to do that much, maybe even without having to push the clutch pedal.
Does your transmission leak fluid from the front, between it and the bell?
