Quick question for you experienced axle guys, is there a good shop manual you would recommend that is heavy with info on 10 bolts in particular?

Both my truck(97 C1500) and my Camaro(4th gen Auburn 3.73) have 10 bolts in them and I plan on doing a little work under the diff covers on both.
The axle in the Camaro, whines and chatters and just all around not very happy having that high of a gear ratio behind a T5.Weather I choose to go to a 3.23 or back to a 3.08 I want to be sure of any compatibility issues that may arise in the process, as well as arm myself with some knowledge before I dig into it.

The axle housing itself in my truck is bad due to 275k miles of neglect and one of the carrier bearings wearing the housing. It still goes down the road after having a new bearing put in to buy some time, but that axle is not very happy.
In the near future I'll be picking up a junkyard axle for it to rebuild myself, and while I have a good understanding of how axles are put together, I'd really like to set it up correctly and never have another issue with it.

I know they're two different animals, but I'm sure something that references the 4th gen 10 bolt heavily will be just fine to use as a bit of a guide in doing the truck 10 bolt.
If something that specific doesn't exist, a nice alternative would be your personal favorite axle rebuilding book.


Thanks in advance. I've gotten so much useful info from this forum over the 13 years I've owned my car, but have been dormant for the last couple years and am getting excited now that I have a garage to work in and can start digging into it again. After my truck axle is sorted out, I'll be building a savings to finally do my 5.3/T56 swap in the Camaro.

 

The factory service manual's have sections on the rear differential. I would start there.

GD

 

There's not much there though, and it isn't all that applicable to older vehicles. Not so much that it's wrong or anything, rather, it is expecting that you're working on a RBAND NEW car with ONE failed thing, not a totally wore-out old million-miler. Very different philosophically as far as how you attack them.

They are altogether EASY to work on, regardless. Very few parts, very simple, even I can manage it. Which if you knew me, would inspire immediate confidence in yourself.

Those 2 rears are as close to identical as rears can be, except for the size of things. Anything that applies to the one will apply equally to the other including any experience you gain along the way. (which is a good thing) They're also equally similar to 3rd gen 7½" 10-bolts, 8½" car 10-bolts, car 12-bolts, truck 12-bolts, certain Dana 44s, etc.; in a word, virtually ANY C-clip rear. About the only difference is that you typically want about more backlash on the larger ring gears, maybe .002" in the truck compared to the car. Other than that, … same.

Carriers rarely wear into the housing. More often, the cast-iron shim next to the bearing, is what wears. It's not impossible I suppose though, if the bearing was so trashed that it made the shim spin along with it, which could possibly eat into the housing. Unfortunately if the housing is damaged it's beyond salvaging for all practical purposes. Cheeeeeper, eeeeeeezier, faster, lower risk, and altogether otherwise better, to throw it in the trash and get another, that doesn't need rebuilding, if possible.

The Auburn is well and widely known to be a total POS. Not surprised it chatters, grabs, does nothing at all, and/or generally screws up in any random manner. I'd recommend finding a Torsen carrier out of a 4th gen V8. I think you're mistaken about your gears. The problem is the particular T-5 you're stuck with. The ratios are too wide. I think you'd regret going down even to 3.42, let alone 3.08 which wouldn't be possible with the kind of carrier I referred you to in any case. It might not feel like it winds out so quick, but you'd pay for that on the highway, with having to shift down constantly just to go up hills and such.

 

Fortunately they are. I've done tons of engine work over the years and am very familiar with those tolerances and such, but since this is my first time digging into a rear axle I just want to make sure I set it up correctly. Especially considering unlike my younger years where I wouldn't be too concerned with slapping something together and dealing with problems later, I've become a big fan of doing something right the first time lol.

For the most part, that is my understanding of the two. Externally pretty different but internally fairly similar. Pretty certain they are both 7.5" ring gears.

Oh yeah, that's exactly what happened. The bearing got so hot that it started transferring race material to the rollers and one thing lead to another and now I'm here.
I've located a couple axles in my area, just haven't had time to make it to one of the yards lately.
But that's the thing with a junkyard axle, I'd prefer to rebuild it with at the very least new axle and pinion seals. But expecting worst case scenario of putting new bearings and gears in it.

Well, I'm sure it could be part of my noise issue, but one thing I will give it is that it does seem to do a good job of engaging/disengaging the clutches as I believe it is supposed to.
Although that does bring me back to my concern of compatibility between the two axles. My truck has RPO G80 which is the Gov-lock limited slip, if I'm able to get another G80 axle from the junk yard I was playing with the idea of swapping out the auburn in favor of the gov-lock carrier unit. At which time I could also contemplate gear ratio change.
I've done some searching on the 4th gen forums and it does look like there are some issues with certain combo's as far as what bolts to or fits with what, though it was not clear or concise enough for me to consider it as fact.

The other problem is my strong desire to swap in a T56, pretty sure once I do that there won't be anything for me to complain about. But when you're working with a small undefined budget and don't want to have the car out of commission for any long period of time, it makes you second guess certain things, such as postponing a $2000+ used T56 and considering bolting a 5.3 to the existing T5 until time and money permit. Obviously driving it easy of course.

 

The 1500 is a 8½", F body is 7½".

Exactly the same except different.

 

personally, I don't think this book is all that great. but it does have good pictures and supplements a bit

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm currently at work browsing through the forums trying to stay awake since work is slow, and sadly they have Amazon blocked. But I'll check it out once I'm back in the realm of home internet freedom. If I don't forget to I'll come back and add more to this post if necessary.


Yep! You're right. Getting a bit mixed up jumping back and forth from truck to car. My bad

 

https://www.cartechbooks.com/chevy-d...d-12-bolt.html

https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=18168

https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/che...t/1120695902#/

I also run across it online from time to time when doing specific searches, but its laden with advertisements, making it difficult to read

 

Try all data or Mitchell repair manuals. I must have paid and printed off a copy of the Mitchell section for rear differentials on 98-99 chevy trucks. I followed those instructions and they worked great. On my truck.