Im looking at buying a t56 LT style with 4th gen pedals, master cylinder, aftermarket aluminum flywheel, Pro 5.0 short shifter and needs a clutch. Is $1400 for all that worth it? Also the odometer on the car is sitting at 160,000 mi.

 

Seems a little high if it needs a clutch, parts and labor to install can be costly. Here, I see ads for a complete) need nothing t-56 from 1000-2500, there has been a 93 LT1 and t-56 for sale together for 1000 in seaside Oregon recently, but I think 1500 if good price if it was ready to go with some history as to when it may have been rebuilt.good luck

 

Yeah, he did say it was a driveable car when he started parting out. Although does not know if it has been rebuilt or not.

 

I don't think $1400 is to bad based what I have seen on ebay and the sale forums recently. Might be a little bit high that that mileage. If it needs a clutch they are $200-300 to start. The aluminum flywheels use a steel insert for the clutch I would check to see how much they go for. Also you will need a cross member so factor that in your cost.

 

I actually just found another t56 unknown mileage but is a rebuilt with a good clutch and flywheel with short shift for $1000. I'm more inclined to go with this one considering it's a rebuild meaning it does not have nearly 160000 on it.

 

The T-56 is pretty durable... as long as nobody has let it run dry or anything, it's probably just fine.

Given all the goodies it comes with, IMO $1400 seems like a totally reasonable deal. That's near $1000 of extras, all of which you'll need in some form or fashion anyway.

 

Yeah I dont know. I keep going back and forth about the 2 . $1000 with belhousing, good clutch, flywheel and BM short shifter. Or 1400 for belhousing, bad clutch, pedals, master cylinder, better flywheel and pro short shifter. I feel better about the rebuilt one for some reason. Does my reasoning make sense to anyone else? I can get a set of pedals for less than 100 I'm hoping... and should prob get a new master cylinder anyway..

 

Depends on what (a) your time is worth … are you employed? do you have a family, wife (or husband, or something, or not) & children, you want to spend time with more than futzing with pedals and such? a business you're trying to get off the ground? … and so forth … vs (b) pure $$$.

I don't think "rebuild" offers very much, or changes the calculus significantly. Might even REDUCE its value. Wouldn't have needed "rebuild" if it wasn't fornicated to begin with, after all.

Both have value. Neither is "wrong". Only you can tell which one has MORE value, TO YOU, at this particular moment. I don't think either is "bad", or necessarily "better"; only, YOU must consider the suitability for YOUR situation at the moment. $$$ are important, but they're not everything.

 

"Rebuilt" is good second hand lingo for "as good as a good one" meaning it doesn't really add value. You can't really trust a seller to be honest. It might have been rebuilt, or it might have been scrubbed with engine degreaser or painted with cheap rattle cans, and nothing else was touched, or any combo of the above. I wouldn't pay more for a "rebuild". I'd plan on needing to rebuild it anyway, because it's better to assume work will need to be done, and not actually need to do it, than the opposite.

 

I would go with the one that is more complete. If you end up having to hunt down the slave spacer and other things it will close that $400 gap pretty quick.

 

Guys,
thanks for all the advise. I love this site! woke up this morning with a clear head and I'm going to look at the rebuilt 1st. Also its alot closer to me. 5mi away vs 120mi.

 

I think either sounds reasonably priced. Like others have said, rebuilt does not really mean much without any documentation. I also dont know to many people that would go through the trouble of using a used clutch, unless its near new or something. A new clutch is always good insurance when doing the trans swap. Also don't forget about the bellhousing, slave spacer, hydraulics, crossmember, torque arm bracket, pedals, shifter, shifter boot, shifter plate and bolts. All of those items add up $$ when you need them separately. So if you buy a bare trans for 1K, you will be closer to 2K by the time you get all the extras.

 

or the ever so hard to find clutch fork...................hopefully your's is good.....Hawks does sell reproduction..........ones....good luck with your 6 speed

 

I just picked up a LT1 T56 last weekend. 100k mi. Pro5.0 shifter, bellhousing, flywheel, shift fork, crossmember & mount, torque arm mount, $1200. Also getting the pedals and hydraulic once he pulls them. Check the input shaft splines for wear or pitting. Worn input = worn internals.

 

Guy just sold a Brand new never used or installed still in the box T56 here in Grand Rapids for $1000. I thought about picking it up.

 

make a list. include prices. If seller A has all except pedals and hydraulics, you know what you're in for. Gathering the little stuff will cost you time, hassle, and money, so knowing what you're(not) getting and waiting for the most complete buy you can make could be worth a LOT more than just a trans.

I can tell if one from 93-97 has been rebuilt in the last 2 decades when I get it apart. 160000 means it is going to be worn at the mainshaft and 5-6 driven gear. And any that era need a 3-4 fork. And 2nd gear is an earlier design. So before you believe in a good to go $1400 trans, realize what a rebuild +parts will run. The more expensive new Magnum makes a lot of sense if the car is worth doing it right for the long-run.

The OEM LT1 flywheel was fairly light. An aluminum flywheel for one adds no value whatsoever. Aftermarket flywheel are cheap and so are clutches for them, overall.

A Pro 5.0 has no alignment between stick and turret other than 2 bolts. There are better options.

A budget LT1 T56 is a great option for third gens.A 94-97 T56 and a 305 is a gross mismatch, however. So skip all the deals you find until you can do a matched combination of parts.