Hey guys, my buddy just re-built his non WC T5. All gears shift normally except 3 into 4.. and ..5 into 4. I read a earlier thread from 2005, where the issue was diagnosed with a bad Pilot bearing/ bushing.
I'm curious to some other opinions. I know he left the bellhousing/clutch bolted to the engine, which makes it unlikely that he changed the pilot.
the car is a 84z28, mild 327 and 3.73's.
Thanks for your time!
I'm curious to some other opinions. I know he left the bellhousing/clutch bolted to the engine, which makes it unlikely that he changed the pilot.
the car is a 84z28, mild 327 and 3.73's.
Thanks for your time!
sofakingdom
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Pilot bearing / bushing and/or extension housing bushing
4th is a sleeve that slides over the 2 internal shafts of the transmission; the clutch gear which is supported by the front bearing and the pilot bearing / bushing, and the mainshaft which is supported by the rear bearing and the extension housing bushing (via the drive shaft yoke). When the front tip of the clutch gear or the rear tip of the mainshaft isn't supported properly, that slider has no chance of working right, because the 2 things inside it are wobbling around.
4th is a sleeve that slides over the 2 internal shafts of the transmission; the clutch gear which is supported by the front bearing and the pilot bearing / bushing, and the mainshaft which is supported by the rear bearing and the extension housing bushing (via the drive shaft yoke). When the front tip of the clutch gear or the rear tip of the mainshaft isn't supported properly, that slider has no chance of working right, because the 2 things inside it are wobbling around.
He swears on his life its not the pilot bearing because he replaced it when he built the motor. since then the trans has been in and out twice... I've always thought thats something you replace whenever then engine/ trans comes out. He just wants to completely rebuild the trans and put better syncros in it. I'm just trying to save the stubborn bastard the extra work
Thanks for the response..
Thanks for the response..
Been a long time but I'm thinking you can pull the input shaft without tearing the whole box apart. Pull it, check the blocker ring, check the little bars in the syncro hub. Should find the problem.




