1990 Pontiac Firebird Formula, originally LO3 TBI 305 and 4L60 automatic transmission. Upgraded to L31 350 GM crate engine and OEM tuned port injection. Dyno Don 1-3/4 headers, Magnaflow 3-inch catalytic converter, 3-inch exhaust to DynoMax Ultra Flo muffler.

Purchased TKX conversion package from Hawk's Performance on October 17, 2022 for $5,584.78. Received all items except actual transmission on October 25. Transmission was "lost" in transit. Notified Hawk's and a replacement was shipped next day. Received transmission on October 28.



Removed driver seat, console and lower driver side dash. Removed pedals. Removed brake booster. Pulled driveshaft and transmission.

Bolted provided pedal assembly to firewall and marked bolt holes and master cylinder pass-through hole. Removed pedals and drilled holes. Fabricated 16-gauge steel reinforcement for firewall and bolted pedals, master cylinder and brake booster into place. Bolted clutch reservoir to brake master cylinder.

Installed bellhousing and checked run-out. Total run-out showed .049-inch. Tolerance for total run-out is .010-inch. Contacted Hawk's to request replacement bellhousing on November 9, 2022. Replacement bellhousing received on December 9, 2022. Total run-out checked at .006-inch; well within tolerance.

Installed pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Attempted to install transmission; unable to install due to poor alignment of clutch, which was a result of cheap, inaccurate plastic alignment tool provided in RAM clutch kit. Pilot bearing damaged in process. Pilot bearing removed with much difficulty. Purchased RAM steel clutch alignment tool and installed new pilot bearing.

Installed transmission without problem on December 19.

Something that I neglected until everything was installed was rewire the hatch release button. I discovered after I was “done” that the hatch button only worked when I pushed in the clutch! Not good. After some research I determined that the tan/white wire going to the hatch button needed to be cut and a new wire run from the button to the parking brake ground switch inside the console. Obviously would have been quite a bit easier before I put the console back together.

A few things not included in Hawk’s kit that I required:
RAM steel clutch alignment tool (RAM 03-013) $51.21
GM CT1078 Pilot bearing to replace trashed bearing due to poor alignment $22.78
U-joint for new 31-spline yoke installation Spicer 5-134X $20.04
Backup light connector pigtail Summit SUM-890108 $18.99
Starter compatible with 621 bell housing (ACDelco Gold 336-1148) $139.55
ACDelco GM PT3156 pigtail (harness-side clutch start switch plug) $17.22
GM D1574G Cruise control release switch $17.80
Delphi Packard Weatherpack 2 Pin terminal kit 16-14 AWG (for VSS) $8.35
Dakota Digital SGI-100BT $104.19
Allstar ALL96426 flywheel locking tool $27.08

I've put just under 500 miles on the conversion and will be performing a fluid change tomorrow. Switching from Mobil One ATF to Penzoil Syncromesh.
Any questions I'll try to answer...

 

Thanks for posting
Thinking of doing the same swap.

Why did you choose the TKX over the T-56?

 

I wanted new stuff; and didn't necessarily need a sixth gear, so the TKX seemed like the obvious choice. It's physically (relatively) small and fits really well; same driveshaft, etc. I'm only pushing ~300 hp/400 lb/ft., so a new T56 seemed like overkill (and considerably more expensive). FWIW, Hawk's told me that they would be using the GM reproduction bellhousing in their kits from now on.

 

rt66er

Looking at your "required but not supplied" list, it seems that there was a lot of wiring fabrication needed.
How involved and where did you get the info needed to get everything working together.

This is the part of the conversion that I'm most concerned about. The "nuts and bolts " part seems straight forward.

Thanks for your time

 

A whole lot of searching on this forum! Sorry if that's too simple an answer, but it's the truth. That's why I posted this thread; hopefully it will help others require a bit less "searching."

 

hey buddy, what flexplate did you have to use 153 or 168 tooth?

 

153.

 

That steel ram alignment tool is a gift from god!!! (A $50 gift!) I got one for my t56 swap and the trans slid right in. I've never had it go that smooth. I was amazed how much it helped.

 

Saving this for future reference
Which RAM clutch did you end up using and how has that been for the miles you've put on?

 

FWIW, I did a TKO600 swap and ran the RAM powergrip good for 550. I was probably in the high 300's. I was incredibly disappointed with drive-ability. WAY closer to on/off that I would've expected for "only" 550 HP capable. RAM customer service was awesome though, and I ended up going with an HDX rated for 450, but the driveability was night and day better.

 

I put in a ram concept 10.5 dual disk. It's great. I had a mechanical setup w a stock clutch and went to a hydramax setup w the dual disk. The pedal is now much lighter and shifting is great. The engagement was high so I installed one of rams pedal height adjusters. Now it's perfect.
Ram tech was super helpful.

 

A T56 swap is in the future plans and knowing a few that went with a super grippy clutch in there daily’s and regretted it soon after, my 91 isn’t gonna be my daily but I will daily it occasionally and the last thing I want is a clutch that I regret putting in.

 

RAM said (keeping in mind that everyone is different and has different preferences) that unless it's a racecar, your best bet is to match HP to clutch or go LOWER. Again....if you're not racing. They said that there are of course countless variables, but even a lower rated clutch won't be slipping all the time, and you'd likely never know when it did, and never see a drop in life expectancy. That doesn't mean put a stock rated clutch on a 700HP blown LS, but you get the point. That being said, the HDX was very smooth and easy to drive. I wouldn't see the point in going with less unless it was bone stock or something, and even then it couldn't hurt. I'm swapping in an LS/T56 and I think I'm gonna go LS7 clutch, but...I was happy with how RAM handled the whole thing and would go that route again if it was necessary.

 

This is totally true. I had a stock(ish) clutch behind a 450hp engine and it was pretty good considering. The only reason I did a dual disk is because a blowers going on and the dual disk I knew would handle it. But the guys at ram are spot on w their recommendations and help.

 

I just put in a powergrip, and so far it's been ok. Getting into 2nd is a little weird...

What do you mean when you say "WAY closer to on/off that I would've expected for only 550 HP capable"

 

I'm talking about slip, or the lack there of. It's like an on off switch. When I first get in the car and you're paying attention to your clutch foot it's not too bad, but just day after day when you're not thinking about it, it was a pain. I've daily driven stick shift vehicles for years and this was the most difficult clutch I've owned. I've certainly driven worse, but not on a vehicle that I've owned.

 

I just got my kit from Hawks, at least part of it. No transmission or clutch kit yet. I got the pedal set in and am trying to figure out how this master cylinder they sent is supposed to work. No instructions were sent. I'll attach a pic of what they sent. If yours was the same, how did you make a keyed hole and get it to line up? Sounds like you ran into a lot of issues with your set up, hope mine goes smoother.... Thanks!
Even if I remove the right side bracket, the bolt holes are incorrect spacing and the linkage will be at too sharp of an angle.

Says it's for a corvette? I am thinking they just sent me the wrong parts?

 

It's been a while since I did the swap. I assume you're swapping from auto to manual. As far as figuring out where to drill and cut, there's a thread on the forum that helps in determining the proper location (post 177) https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...al-88-a-4.html. If I remember correctly, I had to install the pedal assembly to properly locate/mark the clutch master holes and then remove the pedals prior to master cylinder installation. That master looks correct, as far as I can remember. If in doubt, you should call Hawks and verify the part number with them. Could save you some frustration. Good luck!

 

Thank you. I found this thread to be informative and helpful. Glad you mentioned about the universal joint. I looked at the new yoke compared to the existing and wondered about it, before coming here. Thanks to you, I was able to add the correct U-joint to my order with gear lube.

 

This worked very well for me

​​​​​​https://www.ebay.com/itm/17693973260...Bk9SR4CKsufjZQ

 

Thanks for the link. I seen that on the Hawks site too. Them holes are spaced at 3"+/- and the master cylinder they sent me has bolt holes space at 2 1/4", and that's if I take off the attached adapter. I messaged Hawk's. I'm sure they sent me the wrong part. The one they have listed to buy separately for 82-92 Camaro has an adapter that's angled and actually bolts through the firewall vs just twisting in.

 

That master doesn't look correct. It's supposed to be at an angle.

there's a jig available for drilling the hole in the fire wall. It takes all the guess work out. It's what I used on mine.


Also, American powertrain makes a full kit w release bearing/master/lines etc. it worked awesome.