Okay.. so I installed my supercharger about... oh.. a month ago and I've been driving my car around.. 305 TPI with various mods and what not and today, going to the post office (of course it always happens when you're going to the post office), my car slips outta gear and it appears I'm in neutral. That's while I'm in 4th, so I downshift and fall into 3rd and there's a little kick and then again.. neutral.. So I finally downshift into 2nd and I've got power again.. So it's not the governor gear cause it actually shifts into a gear and it's not hte TV cable cause the TV cable just controls shift points.. I checked the fluid and it looks red.. maybe lighter than usual and it's full of tranny fluid.. I'm thinking maybe the 3 4 clutch died but I dont' know how to know for sure without having to open it up and physically look.. Is there anything else I can do before I take it to the tranny shop? Maybe the filter fell out? anyone got any ideas? Please let me know and thanks in advance.

Specs: 305 TPI with ATI Procharger 9# max. Don't know HP or TQ specs but I know before the Super and several mods it was running 192HP and 275TQ. B&M Shift improver kit and 3.23 gears. Everything else should be moot.

 

You fried your 3-4 clutches. Here is my basic recipe:

TransGo Reprogramming kit and the Hi Rev release springs that come with it. TransTec O/H Kit. TransGo Hi Rev Pump Ring Kit. 4L60E 3-4 pack (High Energy) and Input Sprag Assembly. All Borg Warner frictions and 4L60E High Energy B/W Band. Corvette rear planetary. NEW GM Sun Shell. Minimum endplay settings. 093 Servo (Vette). .477 PR Boost Valve. .282 Int/Rev Boost Valve. TruCool LPD cooler and bypass the radiator.

The converter choice depends completely on the power band of the engine. Your stall should be at or just below where your engine STARTS to make power and the WOT shift points should be set so that it is completed BEFORE the power starts to fall off (NOT your max RPM).

 

okay.. so what's the price of this recipe? And if I wanted to do this myself, what would be involved in doing it? I"m assuming I'll have to pull the tranny...? and work from the bell housing end?

Oh, I have a tranny cooler though it's an aux cooler in series with the radiator cooler.

You're also suggesting I change the converter. I'll have to study my engine characteristics better for the stall converter but I'm pretty sure 2k should be about right..

 

I put in a supposedly bullit proof top notch Art Carr built 700r4 manual valve body last year. It lasted 5000 miles. It just pooped out on me last month. I am converting to a TH400 (built to the hilt of coarse, manual valve body revearse pattern, so on) with a www.gearvendors.com overdrive on the back. This is the way to go! Don't bother with a $2000 700r4 that won't last. I sure wish I had done this the first time around. I just talked to Art Carr and they said they are going to try to work out a solution for me, I have my fingers crossed.

 

Anyone have an idea how much it'd cost to rebuild my 700R4 and how long it'd take if I did it myself? I found a website that kinda runs you through the 3-4 clutch replacement but there are other things that should be replaced while I'm in there..

http://www.specialtytrans.com/Specialty/700-3-4.htm

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

 

"I"m assuming I'll have to pull the tranny...? and work from the bell housing end?"

First get a good manual and read it over and over until you know it like the back of your hand before even thinking about doing this. The parts will run several hundred dollard by the time you are finished, not including the tools required.

As for the "Top Notch A** C***" stuff. Why am I not surprised?