stripped upper bellhousing bolt
stripped upper bellhousing bolt
i cooked my tranny yesterday and now im going to put in my other th350. i got everything out except the 2 upper bellhousing bolts. one is rounded off and the other i cant even get a wrench on. what can i do to get this tranny out. for the record the tranny thats in there is a th350c. i really dont wanna pull the motor, i'd rather crack the bellhousing if thats a last resort. thanks
Try a 14MM 6-point impact swivel socket and the stiffest (fattest)
extension you can find. I recommend a flank-drive socket such as a Snap-On. I prefer to use a breaker bar over a ratchet since I have broken a few ratchets. Wear gloves to protect knuckles in
case the socket slips off or the bolt breaks. I don't recommend
using an impact wrench because they don't apply constant torque.
And don't forget to wear eye protection !
extension you can find. I recommend a flank-drive socket such as a Snap-On. I prefer to use a breaker bar over a ratchet since I have broken a few ratchets. Wear gloves to protect knuckles in
case the socket slips off or the bolt breaks. I don't recommend
using an impact wrench because they don't apply constant torque.
And don't forget to wear eye protection !
i had this problem once. the 6 point socket with good extensions and a torque wrench turned all the way up did the trick. the pulses of torque applied to the bolt will work better to not round off the bolt more. btw, you shouldve taken out your distributor and got these two bolts from the top before you started. if you can, take out your distributor and remove the rear tranny crossmember. then jack up the rear of the tranny some to tilt the motor forward a tad to give you clearance to get at the bolts. ive learned this is alot easier than the pain in the a_s method of using 30 million extention bars, swivel sockets, and duct tape.
get the 2 top bolts from the top. use either a snap on flank drive wrench or possibly try a 6 point metric wrench or socket for the rounded one. pull the distributor since you'll probably crack the cover on the fire wall when removing or installing the trans. USE THREAD LOCKER on all the bolts, flexplate , converter, torque arm, trans mount and bellhousing. it'll save you headaches in the future. be sure to torque the flexplate bolts (if you remove them) properly (lb-ft and sequence, like a wheel) . i cracked a few flexplates before i figured that out (young and stupid) . good luck, i just replaced a flexplate on my TA (broken when i got it) not fun , but it could be worse.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 548
Likes: 3
From: Culleoka, Tn
Car: 85 iroc,96 z28,96 Ram 2500,69RR
Engine: 383 with AFR heads.
Transmission: richmond 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 1991 w/1LE.auburn pro series.2.73's
1 chrome 9/16 6 point 3/8 drive wobbly pik a brand, one tranny removal extension 1/2 drive on my end 3/8 drive with a locking tab so wobblie stays put on the business end, 1/2 drive impact gun, shop air up where it should be 180 or so, car on lift or stands, dist cap off, fan shroud loose, if new at this, a face guard in place or at least dont smile cuz if the wobblie gets loose i understand that they are attracted to smiley faces teeth especially- loosen trans crossmember, lower tailshaft slowly, work wobblie into place seat it on bolt head with a few hits with the brass hammer (ford tool) righty tighty-lefty loosey, and enjoy-dont forget to put ONE bolt in place to secure it together prior to taking out the 2 co-ksuckers in question. and all that loctite please dont-- not necessary
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