will a B&M shift kit really help any?
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From: Greenwood, Indiana
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: Vortec 355
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: GM Axles and GM 3.73
will a B&M shift kit really help any?
i saw a shift kit for like $30 at autozone for 700R4
now will this really help....will it make my car chirp in the gears and improve my ET's?
how high do they usually shift at......if i did get it would u suggest the stage 1 or stage 2 kit?
whats the diff?
and also are they hard to put in?
could i do it by myself?
thanks
now will this really help....will it make my car chirp in the gears and improve my ET's?
how high do they usually shift at......if i did get it would u suggest the stage 1 or stage 2 kit?
whats the diff?
and also are they hard to put in?
could i do it by myself?
thanks
Well, the guy who owned my car before me put a shift kit in, and it'll chirp when it hits 2nd gear. But after he put it in, it broke one of the transmission mounts b/c it was shifting so hard, so be careful about that.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 602
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From: St.Charles, MO/ Edwardsville, IL
Car: '03 S-10/ '87 Trans Am
Engine: mild 350
Transmission: TH350
I've got some wicked shift kit in my TH-350 that the shop I gave it to put in there with 5500 rpm shift points. I just broke the stock tranny mount, put in the ES poly mount, and now my x-member is cracked. I guess I'll go with the Spohn x-member. My kit definatly improved my e.t. although I haven't taken it to the track yet.
-Matt
-Matt
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,418
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From: Morris, IL
Car: '91 t-top RS; '91 hrdtp Z28
Engine: LO3;383tpi
Transmission: 700r4;very nice 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 zt posi, 3.70 auburn
it helped me
Mine had a shift kit installed when I bought the car. I'm not sure what brand or stage it is, but it definetly shifts beter than other f-bodies without a shift kit that I have rode in. Mine shifts hard into second, and usually kicks me sideways. 2nd to 3rd kinda sucks though, so I usually keep it in 2nd for 3-4 more mph than it would normally shift, and I always get a firmer shift like that. Hopefully, my auto will be out really soon.....though I've been saying that for a while now. Da#% the T56 swap!!!! It will be worth it in the end though!
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping
When I first bought my Iroc it had a TransGo shift kit in it and the shifts were fast and firm. That transmission died (soon afterwards) and I put a B&M shift improver (from Checker auto) into the next one and it shifts pretty good... but I'd say if you wanted neck-snapping shifts, the TransGo kit is better. Plus, it's been said that it's supposed to be a better kit that fixes some of the shortcomings of the 700R4, but it does cost more.
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Matt, If you use the B&M kit insatll the RV/tow plate instead of the street/stip. The RV one gives you good firm shifts that dont feel half assed. Or just bite the bullet like I did and get the transgo kit. Alot of the S10 V8 guys I know love the B&M kits but they all hate the S/S plate, to fake feeling.
SSC
SSC
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Since 1977 I have removed hundreds of B&M, Art Carr, Superior etc. valve body kits from the different units I was working on at the time, REASON
1) broken parts. (2) Burned clutches and/or bands. (3) Cheap, inferior lining or the wrong application of clutches/bands were used. (4) Brutal shifts on the 1-2 at light throttle (blocked accumulators) and.... and soft 2-3 shifts (not enough oil at WOT to the clutches) at full throttle. (5) Valve body modifications that did not address/solve the problems that were inherent in the transmission from the begining. (6) Etc. These transmissions did not even qualify as a "good core". Trans-Go is the "ONLY ONE" that does offer "fixes" & "solutions" to the problems inherent in all automatic transmissions, and still giving you the performance shifts you want.
1) broken parts. (2) Burned clutches and/or bands. (3) Cheap, inferior lining or the wrong application of clutches/bands were used. (4) Brutal shifts on the 1-2 at light throttle (blocked accumulators) and.... and soft 2-3 shifts (not enough oil at WOT to the clutches) at full throttle. (5) Valve body modifications that did not address/solve the problems that were inherent in the transmission from the begining. (6) Etc. These transmissions did not even qualify as a "good core". Trans-Go is the "ONLY ONE" that does offer "fixes" & "solutions" to the problems inherent in all automatic transmissions, and still giving you the performance shifts you want. Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
What's the actual part # of that TransGo kit? I know there's a few kits by them... the "performance" shift kit, and the "fixing" shift kit- or is there a part # that covers them both?
MINE HAS HELPD ME AND IT STILL CHIRPS IN TO SECOND.MINE IS FOR AN AUTOMATIC THOUGH . ITS A B&M AND WAS O IT WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR .I ALSO HAVE A SHIFTER BUT HAVE'T PUT IT IN YET AND DONT KNOW IF IM GOING TO OR NOT.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,838
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From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I have had the B&M kit for over 5 years now and have had no problems. Gotta be careful in the rain cause the tires will break loose when it shifts even at half throttle.
I have the B&M kit in my tranny(every thing, not just shift kit). I have not had problems with it and it shifts great. If it does ever die on me though, I think I will get a newer 700 and put the transgo kit in it because it is supposed to be better on the tranny and fix some problems. Right now it is in my 85. I would have gone with transgo if I had talked to people on this board before I did it, but I didnt even know the board existed at the point. My cousin who is ase certified in transmissions built it so I got it for the cost of the parts. I dont think I will lose a lot(in terms of money) if it breaks but it has served me well so far.
Ben
Ben
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,179
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From: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping
It wasn't that hard for me. If you take your time and double check each step, installation is possible for someone with some mechanical ability. I only had three issues that required extra effort on my part.
1) The instructions didn't say the valve body was *that* heavy... my spaghetti arm barely caught it when it came loose.
2) I didn't have any grease to hold the check ***** in place when I was reassembling it initially. It's required since 1 or 2 of the ***** have to hold against gravity with nothing under them.
3) Transmission fluid just kept coming from everywhere. I knew there was a lot of fluid in there, but it didn't stop dripping the whole time I was working on it. I filled two containers with fluid.
It took me around 4.5 hours. That's using an air ratchet to save time (loosening only), but also looking for grease and constantly cleaning up fluid.
1) The instructions didn't say the valve body was *that* heavy... my spaghetti arm barely caught it when it came loose.
2) I didn't have any grease to hold the check ***** in place when I was reassembling it initially. It's required since 1 or 2 of the ***** have to hold against gravity with nothing under them.
3) Transmission fluid just kept coming from everywhere. I knew there was a lot of fluid in there, but it didn't stop dripping the whole time I was working on it. I filled two containers with fluid.
It took me around 4.5 hours. That's using an air ratchet to save time (loosening only), but also looking for grease and constantly cleaning up fluid.
Just out of curiosity, what is required to install the 4th full throttle upshift (valve?)? If I were to do this should I use the gm version or the b&m? I remember someone saying something about it upshifting into fourth too early or something though. Does anyone know if that should happen or if it can be fixed so that it wont?
Thanks
Ben
Thanks
Ben
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