my oxygen sensor is rusted in my exhaust pipe and I have tried and tried to get it out but with no success. Are there any tips you might have? I have put WD40 & other lubercating substance and have tried it when it was warmed up. PLease I need help this thing is really starting to **** me off.

 

Doing it when the exhaust is hot is the only tip that's "out of the ordinary"... what kind of tools are you using? How are you physically moving the tools?

 

Couple things that helped in the past (not on an O2 sensor exactly) after soaking it with more wd40, put whatever kind of wrench fits the tightest and tap it lightly with a hammer. Do this a few times in one direction and then reverse direction. Just keep switching back and forth.

Also I think this too helped me once, use a punch and tap on the bung itself. Not hard enough though that you might dent or warp it though.

Or did you try those already?

 

What tool are you using? Personally, I'd use a 7/8th flarenut wrench, or a 7/8th box end (preferably a 6 point) and just put all your weight on it. I've been able to remove completely seized O2 sensors by hanging on a 7/8th flarenut.

Keep in mind though, if yours is seized, you might not be able to put the new sensor back in if the threads are chewed ( and they usually are). You'd have to go to a muffler shop and weld a new O2 bung on there.

 

When you guys try to free a frozen bolt/sensor/whatever, try not to "lean" or "pulllll" on the wrench. You want to use quick/hard "hits" on the wrench, either by yanking hard, or pulling hard. This simulates a garage's impact wrench. By pulllllling or pushhhhhing on a wrench, you can induce a side load. That side load does two things; 1, it sucks away some of the torque you're applying to the nut; 2, it can strip the nut.

I have the oxy sensor socket- it's garbage. When I replace an oxy sensor, I cut the wire off. (It's getting replaced, anyway!) Then I use a regular socket with a breaker bar (long ratchet handle, without the built-in ratchet) on the sensor. To loosen, I give the breaker bar a quick push (or pull), repeatedly, until the sensor loosens up.

As you've read, make sure the exhaust is pretty darn warm (not burning hot) before you try to remove the sensor.

Also, buy a $3 tube of "anti-seize grease" (Pep Boys or etc, made by Permatex). Apply more to the threads of the new oxy sensor. DO NOT get ANY of the anti-seize on the "smelling" end of the sensor, it can contaminate the sensor. If you do, wipe it off the sensor tip with a cloth. The anti sieze will help the sensor screw in easier, and, it'll make it easier to remove in the future. Yes, some anti-sieze is placed on the new sensor from the manufacturer- but you can never put too much anti sieze on.

And don't crossthread the new sensor. Check/double check/triple check to make sure the new sensor is following the original threads. Keep in mind the new sensor won't spin in easily, it'll spin in sort of tough, since by now, the exhaust pipe has cooled.

That oxygen sensor socket, that stupid $15 thing, got itself stuck on a sensor I was trying to remove. It's got a slit up the side to allow the wire to protrude. The socket "opened up" due to the slit, and wedged itself on the sensor. That was a PITA to get the socket off!

My original oxy sensor, that was on the car; I snapped the sucker completely off, so it was "Just" a nut protruding from the pipe. I used a small socket on a breaker bar. Always use as short of a socket as possible to avoid inducing a side load! A wrench is the best avoidance against side-load.

 

I had to (well, the Auto/Hobbies shop on post) had it heated up with a "REAL" Torch until red hot and slowly moving it back and forth to presrve the threads on the bung. Mine was welded shut.

The shop wouldn't let me do it for liability reasons, only charged my a buck though!!!! (plus the 11 dollars to rent the bay/lift for three hours) Man, I love living on base!