How much will this run me
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,937
Likes: 0
From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
How much will this run me
I plan on building my own engine for my camaro how much do you think it will cost and how hard will it be for me to do never done it before.
3.4 almunium block
comp cam 2030
almunium 3.4 heads with port and polish
forged pistons
and portand polish the intake
Also what ever else you can think of let me know. I want do it on a low budget but done right and have learning experience and the right to be able to say i built this engine all on my own.
3.4 almunium block
comp cam 2030
almunium 3.4 heads with port and polish
forged pistons
and portand polish the intake
Also what ever else you can think of let me know. I want do it on a low budget but done right and have learning experience and the right to be able to say i built this engine all on my own.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
The "hidden cost" is machine work. Is this a new block? Will it need any prep work before you can use it?
If it's a used block, you need to pay for a hot tank (cleaning with hot acid) and magnaflux (checks block for cracks- cracked block = throw it out). The hot tank destroys camshaft bearings, so new ones need to be installed. (Tool is $200, cam bearings are cheap, it's better to leave the installation/alignment of (oil feed holes) the bearings to the shop).
Putting in a used crank? You should have it magnafluxed (crack check) and see if the bearing surfaces should be ground down. Grind a crank too much = too weak = might want to throw it out. You've also got to get the correct main bearing size- will you measure that, or will you let the shop buy the correct bearings for you? (More accurate for them to do it, a bit more expensive than ordering bearings from PAW.)
How 'bout those heads? Want to do valve work now or later? Hot tank, magnaflux, valve job.
New connecting rods, or re-using? Magnaflux. Want them shot peened (compresses metal for extra strength)? Will they press them onto the pistons, or will you try?
See? The machine work adds up fast. I was told on the tech board to buy the rebuild kit from the machine shop- yes, it'll be more expensive, BUT, the machine shop will appreciate that, and will take extra care with your motor. Plus, what if you ordered bearings through the mail, and they didn't fit? You'd have to send them back, wait for new ones, etc.... the local machine shop would put the incorrect bearings on the shelf, and hand you correct ones.
Forged pistons are an "instant" extra $300 from PAW over the cast ones. I'll use cast in my rebuild. People on the power adder board use cast pistons with a mild nitrous shot with no problems, and I refuse to spend $300 more for 2.8 pistons- but that's just me.
It's sick how v8 forged pistons are so cheap.
If it's a used block, you need to pay for a hot tank (cleaning with hot acid) and magnaflux (checks block for cracks- cracked block = throw it out). The hot tank destroys camshaft bearings, so new ones need to be installed. (Tool is $200, cam bearings are cheap, it's better to leave the installation/alignment of (oil feed holes) the bearings to the shop).
Putting in a used crank? You should have it magnafluxed (crack check) and see if the bearing surfaces should be ground down. Grind a crank too much = too weak = might want to throw it out. You've also got to get the correct main bearing size- will you measure that, or will you let the shop buy the correct bearings for you? (More accurate for them to do it, a bit more expensive than ordering bearings from PAW.)
How 'bout those heads? Want to do valve work now or later? Hot tank, magnaflux, valve job.
New connecting rods, or re-using? Magnaflux. Want them shot peened (compresses metal for extra strength)? Will they press them onto the pistons, or will you try?
See? The machine work adds up fast. I was told on the tech board to buy the rebuild kit from the machine shop- yes, it'll be more expensive, BUT, the machine shop will appreciate that, and will take extra care with your motor. Plus, what if you ordered bearings through the mail, and they didn't fit? You'd have to send them back, wait for new ones, etc.... the local machine shop would put the incorrect bearings on the shelf, and hand you correct ones.
Forged pistons are an "instant" extra $300 from PAW over the cast ones. I'll use cast in my rebuild. People on the power adder board use cast pistons with a mild nitrous shot with no problems, and I refuse to spend $300 more for 2.8 pistons- but that's just me.
It's sick how v8 forged pistons are so cheap. Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 0
From: Fort Belvoir, VA USA
Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
what's the extra $300 for forged really getting us then? Really worth it in the end? If the eights can run NOS on cast iron with no prob, i am sure we can too
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,937
Likes: 0
From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Wehn i do this im gona use all new parts new block crank pistons rebuilt heads with port and polish any thing enigne wise will be new i will aslo be porting and polishing my intake and getting some 4th gen injectors and have them sent out to be flow tested and all that. And yest i will be puttin nos on it to i plan on spending aorund 1500 or so
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 0
From: Fort Belvoir, VA USA
Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
GM sells just the 3.4L block? Isn't that all you are really using? I read that they sell the 3.4L new for 1800-2000? at least that is what karl said.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eightsixseven
Tech / General Engine
2
Dec 16, 2024 01:50 PM
Fast355
DFI and ECM
14
Dec 2, 2016 06:33 PM





