for those of you who read my "what do you think of this thing" post...i finally got the part in the mail...this thing looks like a joke. i opened it and went "what a bastard" but im still gonna try it...ill install it tomorrow and let ya know of the outcome....

 

what post? the one about the electic supercharger?

in a recent magazine, i think either car craft or hot rod, marlan davis explains why they are bogus

the dont compress the air like a REAL supercharger does
compress the air is what creates the higher cylinder pressure

these little pieces of garbage simply direct the same amount of air into the engine that would be going in, if that POS wasnt there

i my opinion, now that i think about it, they probably actually hinder air flow

 

na it was the cheap air/fuel ration/timing mod....im talking like this guy was clamin a hypertech type deal for 6 bucks...

 

well...def. worth the 6 bucks...gave enough of an increase in HP for me to notice...so its a start...

 

Well don't leave us all in the dark.... what came with the kit? Is it something we can all benefit from? would you recommend it?

 

there was no 'kit' it actually came in a reg. size emvelope. and there was a 1" x 2" piece of bubble wrap with a little *gulp* resistor, and a piece of paper with instructions...
you simply put one end of the resistor into the IAT sensor plug, and the other end into the otherside of the plug...i notice it works good...but recently i have been noticing its doing its job to well...the car is running like its cold...ALL THE TIME. maybe im not used to it yet, i still gotta go out and abuse the camaro to see if i can get used to it, but all it does is make the car drive like the temp guage is at 100 instead of 220....it seems ok so far...
id say try it out only because its a 6 dollar thing...save up some pocket change and get it...worse comes to worse...ya wont like it...i know at times it has worked fine for me...id say give it a shot

 

Thanks for the tips!!!!

 

or even better than spending the 6 bucks...tell us what kind of resistor it is and we can go to the local electronics depot and get one for less than a $1

 

how do i find out?

 

I cant remember if resistors are the ones with little color bands for their ratings...most electronic components have a bunch of little numbers stamped on the sides to tell their ratings

 

________
----------(_|_|___|_)----------



mine looks kinda like that....it has bands on it

 

little colored bands....hmm can ya take a picture?...I like the idea of giving people a mod they can do for what it costs for a soda

 

Did he send you some love lube? you just paid 6 bucks for a .30 cent resistor. When you posted this before I posted what it was cause I emailed the guy asking about it. And yes it will get poor milasge, as it will always be running like its -30 outside.

 

resistors have bands, capasitors have ratings.

 

Starting from the color band that is closest to one end, please give us the colors in order.

Example: (R = red, Br = Brown, G = green)


----------(_|_|___|___)----------
------------R-G---Br


In this case R to the left being the closest to an end.
So, the order is Red, Green, Brown.
Red = 2, Green = 5, Brown = multiplier of 10.
The 2 & the 5 mean "25" (mash the first two digits together), times 10 for the multiplier.
So we get 250 ohms.

Reference:
http://academic.uofs.edu/department/psych/resistor.html

 

ill take a pic this weekend

 

It'd be interesting to know what temp the seller chose, by the resistance...<table BORDER=3 CELLSPACING=3 CELLPADDING=3 >
<tr><td><b>Temp F</b></td><td><b>Temp C</b></td><td><b>Ohms</b></td></tr>
<tr><td>210</td><td>100</td><td>185</td></tr>
<tr><td>160</td><td>70</td><td>450</td></tr>
<tr><td>100</td><td>38</td><td>1,600</td></tr>
<tr><td>70</td><td>20</td><td>3,400</td></tr>
<tr><td>40</td><td>4</td><td>7,500</td></tr>
<tr><td>20</td><td>-7</td><td>13,500</td></tr>
<tr><td>0</td><td>-18</td><td>25,000</td></tr>
<tr><td>-40</td><td>-40</td><td>100,700</td></tr>
</table>

Why does it always put a damned space between my text and the table?!? There's no codes there! Even a pre & /pre don't fix it! Dammit! I'm going home.

 

so whats that doing?
richening the mixture?

 

yea, its puttin more gas into it...its also advancing the Timing...i never looked before...but at the end of third gear im hittin 80 mph...iunno if thats the chip or not...and i used to hit 50 at the end of second now im hittin 55

 

so your saying it changes your gear ratios also?

 

As far as I know it's just fooling the ECM to stay in the open loop mode, thats why you feel like it's putting more gas into it. I did this long time ago ( the resistor is like 25 cents at RadioShack ) but I didn't feel much difference.

 

Say bye bye to gas milage if it's staying in open loop and I would recommand taking it out before going to the smog police.

 

he can give us the color codes..

easier way out would be to check the resistance across the IAT when the engine is cold and buy a !/2 watt resistor with that value

and use it...

im guessing it must be something liek 4.7K ohms or 3.3K ..i saw it somewhere in the web

another thing he could do is measure the resistance across the part he has received even if the color bands are not visible

 

Well, I did just put up the resistance chart. Pick a temperature you want to 'fool' your engine into, and use the appropriate resistance. I just wonder what resistance the ebay seller chose to sell.

 

tomp... where didya get that table ...???
or didya measure the value at those temps ??

apparently SLP sells a part for the LS1's
that does the same thing ...

 

It's straight outta the GM Service Manual... part of the code 23 (MAT) chart. I think the CTS (for ECM, not gauge) uses the same values.

 

ok, where the hells the IAT at? i have no clue where to put this stupid thing in if i got it for a weekend of testing it out....lol, would love to just start plugging resistors in wherever. thanx

 

I was thinking of tring something new with the TPS too. Like putting a small 4.7Uf cap in it to boost the signal some... Maybe thats too big though... I will have to put some butt connectors and experiment a little with that.

 

The MAT (or IAT) is located in the airbox, sticking out of the sides. On the 85-89 Camaros it's sticking out of the dual snorkel, between the air filters and throttle body.

And someone might have better luck tuning the PROM than trying to fool the TPS into doing anything. :sillylol: As reference for others interested, https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=86363 And for info: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=104792

 

Hey dip **** I do not have 300 bucks lying around to buy the prom burning equip do you? and this is just a quick little thing like what this guy got ripped off 6 bucks for a 30 cent resistor. I fiqure nothing can be hurt by it. only thing that would happen is that the signal would be amplified and reach full signal quicker. Which would do more then that 30 cent resistor.

So dumb a$$ do not talk to me.

 

hey camaro hunter, i know uve been around these boards for a while, atleast as long as i have. And i think that you're going in a very wrong direction when you call tom P a dip ****, or a dumb ***, you know just as well as i do that Tomp P has a plethra of f-body information that you only wish you could possess. The mans a walking haynes or chiltons manual, and given the ammount of help he's provided everyone on these boards, i'd most likely suggest that you deserve to give him a little respect. Don't get pissy when he gives a suggestion, and also don't get pissy just cause ur little turbo project fell through, or that no one bought your headers (which is a shame if i say it myself) sorry for any cruel intentions, but i was just a tad bit angered with what i read, showed no intelligence what so ever, and disrespect to a truly remarkable member of this team.

 

TomP is right, PROM is still the better way to go because with a resister like that you never get into closed loop and you just **** fuel away and you don't get any real performance benifit.

 

First off I have been on the boards for over a year now. 2 user names.

And the comp WILL go into closed loop. All I am doing is boosting the signal from the TPS. To have the comp go by a different map.

And F-Bird I am by no means jealous, or wish I knew all that Tom knows. I could care less. I know what I know. And No I will not give respect where it is not deserved.

The header thing I can honestly care less. You all lost out not me.

The turbo thing is by no means dead, the conversion will take place when I get $$$.

 

I was refering to the temp senosor that people are adding that resistor to. YES adding the GM TPS kit or making it your self for a faster response is a great idea. They sell a plug in kit version in summit racing.

 

I have other things to do before my car's ready for a prom- but you can bet when it is, I'll be buying the equipment. But I certainly won't attempt tricking the ECM with a rigged up TPS! What would be the point of fooling the computer to reach "full signal quicker" when the throttle isn't open all the way yet? And why don't you go yell at Glenn, and the others, who said that messing with the TPS is stupid? Or did you not read the first message I linked to? I guess you know better than all of them, right?

And you lost my respect a long time ago. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ll+learn+alot.

 

Boy, It got violant quick! From my limited knowledge, wouldn't PROM burning be better? Nobody said you have to have your own equipment, Why not try to find someone to do it for you? There are great deals out there, and most of the time the deals won't find you, you ahve to find the deals.

I wouldn't want to do that to my car, but when the time is right, I will get a custom PROM Burned

 

Same here buddy so butt the fu(k out.

 

Oh and the point of fooling the comp into thinking the TPS is open more then it is is it will go into a better F/A mapp, along with spark table. It will do al ittle more then the resistor thing. and not effect the normal operation of the comp. The comp will still be able to go into closed/open. Just the tables will advance faster.

 

Hmmmm, really gets your point across. About as mature as my 4 year old. And I know you will reply back with some assinine response so save it. Also don't try and tell me to read some service manual. Unless of course you are a ASE master mechanic, which I highly doupt.

First, why do a hatchet job and try to "fool" the ECM. Theres no reason to tamper with the MAT or CTS, and if the TPS is adjusted correctly having a "hack" to make it appear further open, faster is silly. Had a long chat last weekend with a buddy that has a 11 sec GN. He writes his own code for it and we were talking about relocated MAT sensors. After long hours of testing on a ECM bench and R/L burns the conclusion was that moving the MAT, at least on a blown motor did not add or subtract power. But hey, its your car, engine, etc. cheers, Bob

Oh, I have a nice pile of resistors here, more than happy to sell em at 6 bucks each.... :lala:

 

too bad I was the one making fun of the guy spending that much on them. And the Cap in the TPS is the exact same thing that casper electronic sells for 59-60 something bucks.. So ....

 

Putting a cap inline with the TPS will:
1) Make it not work if placed in series. Caps are equivalent to an open circuit when in the DC realm.
2) Make the throttle response poor if in parallel. Caps are used to "smooth" voltage spikes in signals due to fact that voltage cannot change quickly thru a cap (current can - but that is irrelavent to this discussion). This is the reason they are used as "booster" for audio amps. They can provide the extra charge for a very short period of time if the demand calls for it.

If you want I could post the equations to map the response for a first order circuit (circuit with a cap or inductor). The math is kinda hairy unless you have a firm grasp of integrals/transforms(Fourier and/or Laplace) and linear systems analysis.

You might want to do some more research before you go off and start making up mods. If it was this easy I'm sure someone else would of thought of it long ago - this is pretty basic Elec Engineering.

Not trying to be confrontational - just an FYI

Dale

 

I was going to let him figure that out for himself.