Exhaust System
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 0
From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
Exhaust System
I decided that I am going to buy the Dynomax Exhaust system for I *think* I saw it in the canadian Tire catalog for $230bux canadian, Thats less then whut u guys are paying at summit I think.
How much more power? I'm not expecting tremendous gains, I just want to be able to 'feel' the difference.
Reasons of wanting the exhaust
- My muffler has a 4" long slit it in with exhaust leaking like nutz.
Other pipes behind my cat also have holes and are leaking.
- My exhaust rattle real bad and sounds Trailor park.(rust mnust of went inside the pipes lol.
I should be getting $400 bux on friday... I kinda need rear tires too cause they are kinda well... my 'home made' racing slicks lol.
I just wanna get used ones, As long as I save money and they have some tread on them.
- I will try to get a sound file up after its installed.
>Also how long will this take me to do? Can I do it with 2 jack stands and a jack..?
We have a welder but it's an arc welder... exhaust piping is probally too thin.? I would use muffler clamps, does the Dynomax system come with clamps?
tx
How much more power? I'm not expecting tremendous gains, I just want to be able to 'feel' the difference.
Reasons of wanting the exhaust
- My muffler has a 4" long slit it in with exhaust leaking like nutz.
Other pipes behind my cat also have holes and are leaking.
- My exhaust rattle real bad and sounds Trailor park.(rust mnust of went inside the pipes lol.
I should be getting $400 bux on friday... I kinda need rear tires too cause they are kinda well... my 'home made' racing slicks lol.
I just wanna get used ones, As long as I save money and they have some tread on them.
- I will try to get a sound file up after its installed.
>Also how long will this take me to do? Can I do it with 2 jack stands and a jack..?
We have a welder but it's an arc welder... exhaust piping is probally too thin.? I would use muffler clamps, does the Dynomax system come with clamps?
tx
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,007
Likes: 0
From: Apex North Carolina
you will prolly see a 8-10 hp increase depending on what mods you have. it shouldnt be too hard to get your old exhaust off if its real rusty. it will prolly fall apart. i would like to hear a sound clip of it after you install it. the exhaust system comes with clamps too. im ordering the same exhaust on fri.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 915
Likes: 0
not much, more of a seat of the pants thing. it'll give a few ponies, but in conjunction w/ freeing up the air lid on the intake "box" it'll def. help you out there. enough to pull 1/4 to 1/2 a car v.s. stock.
w/ clamps it should take no more than 45 min. w/ a sawzall, that is if your after nuts holding on your old intermediate pipe aren't rusted to the cat.
w/ clamps it should take no more than 45 min. w/ a sawzall, that is if your after nuts holding on your old intermediate pipe aren't rusted to the cat.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 0
From: Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
Alright, my only other mod is a CAI... So I will have good intake and exhaust....
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 915
Likes: 0
just don't expect much power out of it. w/out a 50-75 shot of nitrous.
I loved the feel and looks of my old camaro, but it was slow as $hit. that's the one thing it really needed.
my GP doesn't feel anything like my maro did.
but.
1. it's faster
2. it looks better
3. more mods (aftermarket)
4. it handles far better (esp. w/ sus. mods)
5. the motor sounds better (must be the SFI)
6. the exhasut sounds better (3100SFI w/ 2 50 series flowmasters and resonator delete and catco cat v.s. 80 series flowmaster and no cat in camaro)
I loved the feel and looks of my old camaro, but it was slow as $hit. that's the one thing it really needed.
my GP doesn't feel anything like my maro did.
but.
1. it's faster
2. it looks better
3. more mods (aftermarket)
4. it handles far better (esp. w/ sus. mods)
5. the motor sounds better (must be the SFI)
6. the exhasut sounds better (3100SFI w/ 2 50 series flowmasters and resonator delete and catco cat v.s. 80 series flowmaster and no cat in camaro)
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Exhaust System
Originally posted by mike1986fyrbird
I decided that I am going to buy the Dynomax Exhaust system for I *think* I saw it in the canadian Tire catalog for $230bux canadian, Thats less then whut u guys are paying at summit I think.
How much more power? I'm not expecting tremendous gains, I just want to be able to 'feel' the difference.
Reasons of wanting the exhaust
- My muffler has a 4" long slit it in with exhaust leaking like nutz.
Other pipes behind my cat also have holes and are leaking.
- My exhaust rattle real bad and sounds Trailor park.(rust mnust of went inside the pipes lol.
I should be getting $400 bux on friday... I kinda need rear tires too cause they are kinda well... my 'home made' racing slicks lol.
I just wanna get used ones, As long as I save money and they have some tread on them.
- I will try to get a sound file up after its installed.
>Also how long will this take me to do? Can I do it with 2 jack stands and a jack..?
We have a welder but it's an arc welder... exhaust piping is probally too thin.? I would use muffler clamps, does the Dynomax system come with clamps?
tx
I decided that I am going to buy the Dynomax Exhaust system for I *think* I saw it in the canadian Tire catalog for $230bux canadian, Thats less then whut u guys are paying at summit I think.
How much more power? I'm not expecting tremendous gains, I just want to be able to 'feel' the difference.
Reasons of wanting the exhaust
- My muffler has a 4" long slit it in with exhaust leaking like nutz.
Other pipes behind my cat also have holes and are leaking.
- My exhaust rattle real bad and sounds Trailor park.(rust mnust of went inside the pipes lol.
I should be getting $400 bux on friday... I kinda need rear tires too cause they are kinda well... my 'home made' racing slicks lol.
I just wanna get used ones, As long as I save money and they have some tread on them.
- I will try to get a sound file up after its installed.
>Also how long will this take me to do? Can I do it with 2 jack stands and a jack..?
We have a welder but it's an arc welder... exhaust piping is probally too thin.? I would use muffler clamps, does the Dynomax system come with clamps?
tx
I posted how to install the dynomax system a long time ago; easiest way is to drop the rear axle. Sounds like more work, but it's not. I'll do a quick search .. yep, found it. Here's the info, from message https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=90630 . The clamps I mention at the end are the old/rusty factory clamps that have been on the car for 15 years. If you want clamps you can re-use, spend the extra couple for some nice stainless steel ones. Besides, they look sharper, too!
Originally posted by TomP
Actually, check your passenger rear hanger. It must be a flat rectangle type, not a rubber oval. For the Dynomax #17493 Super Turbo Catback to fit our cars, we need the V8 hanger. They're all over the place in junkyards, and I think you can even get one from a dealer. The driver's rear hanger is the same.
Yeah, I've done three cat-backs, and the easiest so far was my last one. It took the dropping of my fuel tank (fuel pump died) to see "the solution". With the lower shock bolts disconnected from the axle, and the axle lowered down, you can literally pull the whole cat-back out from underneath the car. It's much easier than raising the back end sky-high.
You'll have to remove the original intermediate-pipe-to-rear-of-cat bolts; you might want to soak 'em with liquid wrench a day or so before you do the work. (Remember liquid wrench is flammable!)
To get the axle to lower easily, you should unbolt your anti-sway-bar end-links. If those bolts are frozen together, you can unbolt the anti-sway-bar mounting c-clamps. Also unbolt the rear-brake-line-to-body clamp, and keep an eye on the body-to-axle brake hose as you lower the axle- you don't want to wind up hanging that +200lb axle from that little rubber brake hose!
After that, you remove the muffler heat shields, which is a bit of a pain in the ***; use a 7mm or 9/32" socket. Then it's "yank out old, put in new"!
It might be easier to install the v8-style rear passenger hanger on the cat-back hanger first, and then bolt the hanger to the rear upper frame rail. It goes to the same bolt holes our V6-style rear passenger hanger goes to... I think the bolts are 9/16"? Put the I-pipe under first; that's the bulk of the bitch. Tip: Rub some silver anti-sieze on the pipes where they go into the muffler. This allows for easy tailpipe repositioning a week or so after you install the catback. Anchor the I-pipe to the passenger frame rail first, then slide the muffler & dual pipes on. The pain is to get the pipes aligned with each other, and level.
Tip #2: If you get the Dynomax #17493, as it comes, the 2 1/2" tailpipes are flatted ovals as they turn down- you won't slide a chrome tip over them. To get the true round 2 1/2", you need to cut the slash tips off. On my first cat-back, I angled the tailpipes "up" so the slash tips didn't stick down too far. When I cut the slashes off to put on tips, I found out that I had angled the talipipes too high, and my tips pointed skyward, and pressed against the bumper-oops. Think about installing the tailpipes so they're level with the ground.
And yeah, it can get interesting. Always have spare clamps nearby; because those clamps always seem to snap in half if you try to remove them.
Actually, check your passenger rear hanger. It must be a flat rectangle type, not a rubber oval. For the Dynomax #17493 Super Turbo Catback to fit our cars, we need the V8 hanger. They're all over the place in junkyards, and I think you can even get one from a dealer. The driver's rear hanger is the same.
Yeah, I've done three cat-backs, and the easiest so far was my last one. It took the dropping of my fuel tank (fuel pump died) to see "the solution". With the lower shock bolts disconnected from the axle, and the axle lowered down, you can literally pull the whole cat-back out from underneath the car. It's much easier than raising the back end sky-high.
You'll have to remove the original intermediate-pipe-to-rear-of-cat bolts; you might want to soak 'em with liquid wrench a day or so before you do the work. (Remember liquid wrench is flammable!)
To get the axle to lower easily, you should unbolt your anti-sway-bar end-links. If those bolts are frozen together, you can unbolt the anti-sway-bar mounting c-clamps. Also unbolt the rear-brake-line-to-body clamp, and keep an eye on the body-to-axle brake hose as you lower the axle- you don't want to wind up hanging that +200lb axle from that little rubber brake hose!
After that, you remove the muffler heat shields, which is a bit of a pain in the ***; use a 7mm or 9/32" socket. Then it's "yank out old, put in new"!
It might be easier to install the v8-style rear passenger hanger on the cat-back hanger first, and then bolt the hanger to the rear upper frame rail. It goes to the same bolt holes our V6-style rear passenger hanger goes to... I think the bolts are 9/16"? Put the I-pipe under first; that's the bulk of the bitch. Tip: Rub some silver anti-sieze on the pipes where they go into the muffler. This allows for easy tailpipe repositioning a week or so after you install the catback. Anchor the I-pipe to the passenger frame rail first, then slide the muffler & dual pipes on. The pain is to get the pipes aligned with each other, and level.
Tip #2: If you get the Dynomax #17493, as it comes, the 2 1/2" tailpipes are flatted ovals as they turn down- you won't slide a chrome tip over them. To get the true round 2 1/2", you need to cut the slash tips off. On my first cat-back, I angled the tailpipes "up" so the slash tips didn't stick down too far. When I cut the slashes off to put on tips, I found out that I had angled the talipipes too high, and my tips pointed skyward, and pressed against the bumper-oops. Think about installing the tailpipes so they're level with the ground.
And yeah, it can get interesting. Always have spare clamps nearby; because those clamps always seem to snap in half if you try to remove them.
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