Ok, yes I'm still having probs with this %&^&^$# car.

Last night, I installed the 17lb injectors from my 3.4l, noticed a loose vacume line, fixed it. And fixed the leaky T-stat in it.

Car always idle little high, like 1200 rpms, Now this thing idles around 2000 or so.

What did I do wrong?? I couldn't find the info on how tight the intake had to be, and how to tighten it. But I tightened to 20psi, then 40psi, started in center and worked out, left to right, kinda like on the heads.


Is 17lbs just to much for the car?? Or do I have a vacume leak from the intake??

I should have a new ecm in today, and I will swap tps and ecm as everytime I attempt to play with the tps, I get a code 22

 

BTW, heres some back ground info. Started with stumble during acceleration, then it moved to not starting when hot, then not starting when cold/stumble while driving, now at high idle, may still have no start when cold.

Heres list of stuff from the past month....

New IAC
New ICM
rebuilt distrib
new pick up coil
new fuel pump
17lb injectors from 3.4
swapped back to stock coil, then back to accell
new leads to coil
swapped plugs
new air intake system
gutted cat
fairly new wires (6 months or less)
fairly new cap/rotor (6 months or less)
my gel cell battery from s10 is in it now
new battery cable wires
new starter
new ends on wires to starter
new belt tensioner
new belt.

Every time I put a tps on it (tryed 5 diff ones) I got a code 22 instantly, WTF is up with that??

 

did you set min air???

It also could just be the bigger injectors need a lower idle, crank the throttle stop down a bit. Its not the right way to adjust it, butit work.

but do all the right stuff first, if then it still idels real high, lower it your self.


http://www.sethirdgen.org/minair.htm
http://www.sethirdgen.org/tps.htm

no offense to thirdgen.org but sethridgen has easier to read tech articles.

and as long as your at it, a 3 wire O2 sensor might be a good thing, any 3 wire one will work. [on ebay you can find them cheaper for fords, but they are all the same.]

That way the computer does not use loop mode.

http://www.sethirdgen.org/HO2S.htm

 

I have a non-adjustable tps. I looked into that.
Now that I do have a digital meter rather then a dial one, I do need to check that again.

Been debating on the 3 wire o2, but since I have manifolds, I dont see the benifit of spending 70+ bux for it right now.
Plus read somewhere you have to modify the chip in the ecm??

 

I dont think you need to do anything with the computer.

The ecm just goes into loop mode untill it get a signal,

quick search on ebay, 3 wire O2 sensor 25 bucks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33611&item=1876281375

maybe even spend a few buck an an air fuel meter and you will know for sure. Id like to get one, and a quick search on ebay and they are not that bad.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6773&item=1875771184


why not put or try an adjustable TPS on it???

 

Ok, it wont start after sitting overnight either. So I'm possibly guessing a battery drain on the system. Any good thoughts on what that might be??

 

starter, its that time of year and mine went out. now with a new one it cranks over like a dream. almost like when you got the plugs out and crank a motor, it just spins fast and easy.

before I was almost killing the batt every time I started it. well only since old man winter showed up.

at 80f you have 100% battery power and the car needs 100%.
at 0f you have 40% battery power and the car needs 210%.
at -20f you have 18% battery power and the car needs 268%

at 0f a lead acid battery will not accept a charge from your charging system.

 

Damn, didn't know that gumby. It was fairly freakin cold last night too. But its got a gel cell in it CURRENTLY.

I have alot of people telling me that an alt can still charge, but if some elec gizmo crap in the back is bad, it will drain a battery over night. As far as I know, this is stock alt, and has never been broke open.

Eventually I plan on adding some brighter headlights, system, neons, power windows locks, bla bla bla, I am debating on finding a 120 or 140 amp alt.

Anyone know of one that is NOT chrome, and at a decent price??


BTW, any ideas on the idle of my car?? Or could that be related to the voltage?

 

If you think you have a vac leak try this. use a propane cylinder torch (unlit) and open the valve slightly move it around the intake or wherever youthink the vac leak is when the car idles up you've found the leak just don't hold the torch there for very long as propane isn't that good for your motor

 

Wow Gumby, you're right, those articles are much clearer to read! Thanks for the links!

Dale, did you tighten the plenum down to 40 ft/lbs? Spec is 18-20 ft/lbs! All those intake bolts are 18-20... since they're all steel bolts going into aluminum threads.

Did you use new o-rings on the injectors? Old ones can develop cracks in them that causes a vacuum leak, and sometimes, you can tear an old one. Did you rub some 10w30 (or 5w30 or other motor oil) into the injector holes with your finger to keep the o-rings from tearing?

Did you re-use the plenum gaskets? Re-using them can cause a vacuum leak since the gaskets are hard as hell. All you need to cut new ones is a $3 roll of thin black gasket material and an exacto knife and a block of wood to cut on so you don't ruin the workbench. Hopefully your old gaskets will pry off in one piece so you can use 'em as a template.

Thanks for the propane tip, badandy! Is that a better method than using wd-40 or throttle body cleaner? (wd40 seems less explosive )

 

with the torch tip on the cylinder it may light the torch form what I've gathered the propane is better for your engine and easier to find smaller leaks with than wd-40 or ether based starting fluids they all work though

 

Yep Tom, I don't hang out in the sethirdgen forum but they have a real nack for writing easy to understand tech articles.

Which really helps sometimes.

 

The vacuum leak is the hose at base of the distributor, driver side.
It's 1/2" hose, short section. About 3 inches tall.
It's not on correct or hose weak collasping under suction & letting in air.
You did play in & out with the distb, true?
You upset that fragile aged hose.
Replace it & problem be gone I HOPE.
Serious, I had that problem & that was the solution.
Vacuum leaks cause all problems.
I used heater hose & lots of motor oil to slip on fitting securely.
Battery, sure it's draining.
You keep trying to start, not get vehicle running.

I have new battery, not in car yet.
I need give it a recharge before I use it in my Blazer project to start engine. Then (in my instance) I'll remove it, unless I plan on driving vehicle.

Short drives & constant cranking kills batteries real fast no matter what the brand, I've discovered.

Suggestion, hook up battery charger as you are attempting to start car (supplement full charged battery).
Remove alternator & have bench tested for real results.
Remove all varibles.
IF starter cranks, it should be fine.
We're not pushing 8 cylinders & 427 sized big blocks w/10.5 compression.

If truly concerned on battery remove, bring in doors, hook up charger, keep freshly charged, use in car again.
It's cold?
Been about 80* today, felt great!
Shorts & sandals & T shirts
This weekend, warmer, too.
AND THAT'S GOOD FOR YOUR GUYS. When SoCal gets a storm, it'll be a bastard coming your way!

 

Hey Ked just reminded me of something. spray WD-40 on the vacuum lines that run aroun your EGR to the fuel canaster.

I found my mystery vacuum leak there, once I sprayed the hoses down [soaked them, and it soaked it up like a spong] the car ran smoother. Found out the hoses were collasping in the area from the engine to the fender. Like all the heat rissing up in that area tunred them into mush.

But I did drive around for about a week with no more problems, before I started pluging things off. WD-40 seamed to bring them back to life for a bit.


I finally just said screw it and pluged everything off, screw that fuel canaster.

]I did leave the EGR circut alone and hooked up a vacuum gauge on it.


But since its on the EGR part it acts different or strange. I got another one somewhere I want to put on the manifold. Have dual displays. Only paid 7 buck each and a few feet of clear pvc hose, no big deal.



Just made me think, who ever replaces their hoses with clear hose. Who know what kind of things you would see. I know the clear pvc hose they sell at the hardware store works fine. I use it for gas line on my bike, so it can take some chemicals.

 

Ok, I installed new o-rings and sprayed them with liquid silicone first. I tryed the oil trick before on other injectors, didn't work for me.

Yes, I tightend intake to 40psi. Like I said, I couldn't find it in the book.

Yes I used new gaskets on it.

I belive all the vac lines I disterbed are ones that I had already repacled.


Battery drain, turn key in "on" position, listen to alt BUZZZZ. Plus it tested at parts store to put out 55amp, not the 105 it should have. Will be attempting to find $ to replace it today. Hopefully that will be my battery drain, as well as charging.

Would that cause high idle?? I hope so, but doubt it.

 

The hose in the back, intake manifold/engine block is the culprit.
Remove the PVC hose set up from it and remove the short section & install a new hose.

That fitting?
It's the main vacuum source that controls the entire PVC/EGR signal.

I've never touched those hoses to the fuel vapor canister, yet.

I hooked up my vacuum gauge to the area right by that black can on the firewall, by wiper motor.

 

Ok guys, thanks for the replys. I went and got new alt today, and that wire that goes from alt to "hot block" broke while taking it off. Replace both.

It now idles tad higher then it did before, its around 1200-1300 now.

I know the car SHOULD idle around 900'ish correct?? When I got the car it idled around 1000-1100 when its hot. I have occasionly been replacing vacume lines. I ALWAYS keep forgeting to put vac guage on it, even though I installed a "T" fitting to make it easier .


Hopefully my issues with this car are done for a while and I can finish my engine swap in the truck.


Almost have my headers finished