I was doing the waterpump and a neighbor popped over with his new digital camera. So I took a few engine shots of my parts.

First off the TB bypass, Makes things so easy to work on.

 

Pics of the 200amp alt I had on, then took back off. And the 62mm TB.

 

All Spohn rear suspension including torque arm. Iroc 10bolt with new Auburn posi and rear disc.

 

Opps, here you go.

 

is that an STB bar you have ? where did you get that ?
what kinda rear shocks do you have ?

How did put that little blue thingy on that pipe and by-pass your tb? . I have my tb bypased , but yours looks neater with the blue pipe !

Sorry for the 100 questions ! But , you posted the pics man !

 

STB is an Edelbrock 3-point from Summit.

Rear shocks are Tokico's for now, but I have custom fabricated some metal bracket supports for the upper rear mount (weld-in brackets) and will be mounting Koni monotube double adj coilovers in the near future. Notice the lower mounts are reinforced by bolt-on BMR relocation brackets that I also welded. I used these for the extra brace that runs to the shock mount to help support the lower shock mount for when I add the coilovers also.

As for the blue thingy, Its the part that I have posted several times in the past:
{Here's what you need for a clean finish and function:

Earls fittings #712010 (10A.N. 120* hose barb), #981610 (1/2" to 10A.N. adapter), 1 foot of 5/8" hose & 2 clamps.

1) Disconnect the two coolant hoses to the TB.
2)Take off the coolant barb plate from the underneath side of the throttle body with the appropriate torx socket.
3)Disconnect the metal heater feed pipe from the intake manifold, heater solinoid, and alt. bracket and cut it in half just behind the belt tensioner, then reinstall the side to the heater solinoid and bracket screw.
4) install the earls adapter and hose barb fittings angling the 120* hose barb in the same direction that the original metal heater feed hose ran.
5) attach 5/8" hose cut to appropriate length to the hose barb and the original remaining heater feed line with hose clamps.
6) start car and check coolant level in case of any loss.


This procedure will eliminate the two coolant feed lines to the throttle body altogether eliminating the lope around the intake associated with the standard TB bypass. Making it easier to remove the intake and breather hose when working on the car in the future, + it look alot cleaner!}

 

I should have taken a full shot of the engine bay, My HMS aluminum strut mounts are in there also. This is a picture I scanned of them that was taken after I got them back from the polisher. There's one of my Darryl Young Trannies in the picture also. ( with a .521 boost valve )

 

Opps, again on the pic.

 

where did you get that 62mm tb????? how much was it?

 

FDP Performance- 62mm TB, $225 U.S.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/fjpeters/index.htm

 

Thanks alot for all the info afreakngoodtime !

 

Where did you get those mounts at? I did a search, and HMS is nothing but BMW equipment.

Nevermind, just found it. fut $300 for something that is not even a bolt on is well...http://www.ground-control.com/gcwhnew.htm

 

They are not Ground Control units, They were a special production run from Hunter Motorsports. ground control units require the use of the stock strut mount, these replace the entire unit and has an Aurora sperical bearing attached and provisions for extra strut travel because my car is lowered a little more than most.

 

how much actually hp will i gain by putting that big 62mm tb on ym bird? my whole intake is already ported heavily. is it worth $225

 

Personally I'm not going to bother putting mine on until I do the heads and headers. I don't think I'd notice any sizable improvement with stock heads and exhaust manifolds. Everything got to be married.