Hi, I just bought a 91 RS Camaro (3.1L V6) a few months ago and before I pull it out this spring I need to put in a new water pump. I was thinking of just going with the standard GM pump. Are there any better one's that I should look into getting instead? Thanks

 

Airtex is the best aftermarket brand waterpump that you can buy. They are better than the standard GM unit and should be less expensive as well. Check your local auto parts stores for one.

 

It's only $20 or so from any store.
It almost don't matter what brand ya buy
as one pump is rebuilt well, period.
When ya get pump in your hand, you'll see no true difference. IF ya have a overheating problem it's caused by other factors, usually.
I recently solved my low speed cooling issue by making a larger dam to push more air into the raidator.
I used roof/housing flashing.
I have to install a better front bumper & at the same time, I install rest of the replacement air dams I have from yard.

 

Ked, quality of the bearings and impeller are better with the Airtex. Not only does it flow better, it lasts longer.

 

I SO AGREE WITH YOUR STATEMENT
YET
I can also take my old pump to any Pedro Jose Juan local rebuilder & watch them do it infront of my eyes also.
I must agree that
AIRTEX DOES SEEM TO HAVE MAJORITY OF THE BUSINESS WITH THE PARTS HOUSES NATIONWIDE.
So does Cardone, another big rebuilder of parts, too.
Pretty much a bearing is a bearing, so is impellor.
With this 60* design model, truly NOT MUCH VARIENCE ALLOWED as what GM designated to fit, fits right and is continued all the old aluminum pump housing (rebuiders) after life.
PS As long as it don't leak you're on right track.
Quality is seen as soon as ya open the box at the parts counter.
The 60* pump internal stuff ain't hidden as is a SB/BB Chevy part behind a steel plate.

In my GM issued (GM stock w/GM part number, too) small block chevy hi-po aluminum water pump I scored at a swap meet, I installed a made in china bearing on the old impeller.
It's a 3/4" shaft bearing set up, stock is smaller bearing shaft.
That made in china bearing cost me a pretty penny.
The GM bearing was gonna run close to $75+ back then
Lord knows what price the GM 3/4" inch shaft bearing is now.
I have no fear of failure of that china bearing, as MANY US manufactures just farm out the work & repackage in their own box & state that on outside of their packaging.
I accept the made in china stuff with no true fear.
USED TO BE BAD QUALITY foreign manufactures.
No longer.
No longer.
IF that/ANY business wanted more business, they had to meet better more demanding specs.

FYI
One of my BOX IN AN AC DELCO ISSUED IGNITION CONTROL MODULES WAS CAST WITH MADE IN CHINA ON IT!
One of the fan relays I bought at GM dealer, also had stamped on it, made in China.
If it works no biggie to me anymore.
Quality is quality, if it fials ya get a lifetime warranty & I use those warranties, too.
IF YA THAT WORRIED ABOUT PARTS & SUCH
Bypass that worry
GO BUY A BRAND NEW VEHICLE at the local dealership.

NOW MADE IN CHINA body panels, yep I seek out old GM issued sheet metal when possible.
MUCH THICKER & STRONGER GRADE OF SHEET METAL USED IN GM PLANTS. Then aftermarket manufactures.
YET AGIAN, my '85 Blazer new chrome bumpers?
Made in Taiwan, but at $60/ each, who cares, I can replace at a later date for about same price when they rust. Which I knw they will.
Economics paly inthat decision.
My 1967 & 1968 Camaro?
I seek out a chrome replater to replate my original issued bumpers THEN BUY cheap repros for the street. Why waste tons of money to have some stupid yahoo fu(k my hard work
Some parts calls are such simple decisions.
New technology is quite decent.

No it ain't what it used to be, as the OLD NOS parts are drying up so fast, I'm stunned I'm really stunned. Atleast I grabbed all I could back when ya could. When I was at the WORLD'S LARGEST SWAP MEET ON WEST COAST (Pomona swap meet in CA this past Sunday), I can't tell ya how much old stuff I saw. It's all new remanufactured stuff now. Couldn't find truly old stuff at all. What was old was such junk, pitted, etc. OR not worth the NOS price asked for any vehicle ya seek stuff for.
Yeah I know welcome to the 21st century! It ain't 1967 no more!

 

Thanks for the advice my local Napa autoparts store has these pumps brand new for $62.

 

SHOP AROUND!
SHOP AROUND!
I've NEVER PAID MORE THAN $20 for that pump!
I've dealt with these 60* things since 1989!
Hell for $62 I HOPE IT COMES WITH THE PERSON TO DO THE INSTALLATION FOR YOU, TOO
FIND OTHER PLACES TO BUY THE PUMP!
WHAT A RIP $62 for a waterpump!!!!

 

I've been searching around both locally and on the internet and I have found the same price everywhere. If you know of a place that sells these pumps for cheaper, I would greatly appreciate it if you could post it.

 

I'm out in SoCal & deal with Kragen, Pep Boys, Autozone.
TRY
Northern Auto Parts
800-831-0884 is their number.
For real people charge that much.
That's criminal
Good thing ya got time to shop around!
What about a local rebuilder in your area?

 

Yeah I know thats ludicrous how much they are overcharging for these if you can get the same thing for $20. I live way over in WI, but its strange that the price would vary so much.

I think I would rather go brand new, even though I'm sure most rebuilt ones are fine, I really dont want to have to replace it again in the future.

 

It's like this.
The casting is new, as is the replacement parts (bearing/impeller).
Rebuilt works with a good casting core & adds new impeller & new bearing.
I've had the pleasure (sure!) of rebuilding many of my own parts with a friends & their guidence.
I seriously wouldn't worry at all.
Want fun?
I had a Vega.
One of the few parts that wore on it was the water pump. It would gush like Niagra Falls.
Took back to garage.
Pressure tested it.
NO LEAKS
I drive, floods on the street.
They even pressure test infront of my own eyes, not a drop.
I go to drive away, suddenly NIAGRA FALLS AFTER I START THE CAR IN THE GARAGE PARKING LOT.
They were surprised, too!

IF done right, IF I WAS YOU, I'd also do a timing chain switch. Replace the chain same time as the pump project.
You'd be amazed the performance gain. How many miles ya got on the ride?
IF over 75K the chain swap out is due.
Especially if ya wanna keep ride.
You "replace" the pump while it's in your hands as the timing chain is right behind the assembly exposed after pump removal.

Test chain stretch by placing 17mm on crank pulley bolt, pop off distributor cap, move crank with ratchet.
Check how much/long it takes to move rotor.
IF over one inch of crank movement to move rotor, chain replacment is due.

 

Yeah my care has about 78,000 miles on it. I think I will add that to my tune up list for over spring break in a couple weeks.

How noticable will the power gain be? During the 2 months that I had it before winter it seemed as though my car would really pick up after hitting 3000 rpm's. Is this related to the chain?

Sorry for the gap in replies, kinda busy with school and work.

I'm kind of a newb when it comes to car repair so forgive me for my ignorant questions, but I am learning and have people to help me out. Thanks for all the help by the way.

 

I'm a newbie at computers still!
SEEKOUT A RECENT PAST POST about timing chain parts & cost. Do a search. It was about 14 days or less.
I list all the parts & prices I paid.
You do this job same time as swapping on water pump, as ya remove the water pump to get to the timing chain.
See your water pump now, it's a two layer deal?
Chain within that other aluminum item w.pump is mounted onto.

Shop by free 800 numbers go get any hot rod, super chevy car craft magazine for vendors & bargain with them.
EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE!
LIVE THOSE WORDS!
For my total water pump & chainswap, I paid like $100.
What in return
TRY BEST SEAT IN PANTS FEELING YOU'LL GET
Gas milage increases
Car runs cooler!
Runs smoother, too!
Better emissions
Ya save in expenses what you paid out in parts & such!
Not a bad deal at all.
IF ya looking for massive HP gains, this V-6 powered car ain't the right answer.
Good reliable, fun ride in class & style & good pep, these V-6 rides are just right for many.
Check/search around for past timing chain responses
as your guide.

 

One thing that should be done before replacing a pump, if possible, is flushing the system out. Any crap in the coolant (in the radiator AND the motor!) can wedge itself into the pump seal. For the same reason, your 50/50 coolant/water mix should use distilled water, commonly sold in food stores for "steam irons". Use water from a garden hose, and you can get all kinds of crusty mineral deposits inside the system- the same stuff that would clog up a steam iron. You can usually find these deposits under your radiator cap, or, if you remove a radiator hose to replace it.

You can tell the front pump seal is gone when the pump leaks out of it's weep holes. These are holes directly behind the bottom of the water pump pulley. They'll drip coolant if the front seal is shot.

 

Crap I definitely want to do that first after reading about the effects of stop leak. I put some in over the summer hoping to fix the coolant leak until I could replace the water pump. I hope it does mess up my radiator and heater core, that would **** me off majorly.

Thanks for the advice.

 

Stop leak ain't perfect but ok alternative