I Have Codes!
I Have Codes!
My car died on the freeway (twice!) and I got it towed (twice!) but the first time it threw codes when I checked them.
It threw a 32 and a 34.
(I have the 2.8 MPI)
Any idea what it means to any certainty? I have a chilton and a hayes now, and they both say different things. (Chilton says MAP, Hayes says MAF and then they both say EGR Failure)
Any hints if these two codes can have anything to do with my big problem I posted about before? Also, I just replaced the MAF before that code hit (and since have replaced it again)
Can anyone elaborate on the codes and give me tips where to go next with this process?
It threw a 32 and a 34.
(I have the 2.8 MPI)
Any idea what it means to any certainty? I have a chilton and a hayes now, and they both say different things. (Chilton says MAP, Hayes says MAF and then they both say EGR Failure)
Any hints if these two codes can have anything to do with my big problem I posted about before? Also, I just replaced the MAF before that code hit (and since have replaced it again)
Can anyone elaborate on the codes and give me tips where to go next with this process?
First there is a vacuum controlled switch on the EGR solenoid. If that one does not close under the following conditions it sends a 32 code: coolant temp over 176°F, EGR duty cycly greater 55%TPS close to half throttle.
Now I would test the switch with a vacuum pump and a test light to see if maybe thats the problem. It is pin C and D on the solenoid(where the white and blackandwhite wires go in.)The next thing I would do is to test the solenoid valve. For that I would connect terminal A to 12V and Terminal B to ground. Then I would apply vacuum to the intake side of the solenoid valve and see if the switch closes (again use a multimeter switched to the continuity setting connected between C and D). If it does not close either your solenoid valve or the EGR valve itself or some of the hoses between don t hold the vacuum. However this only workes for the older 2.8 (like 1989) which don t have an electronic EGR valve. Hope it helps some. Good luck
Now I would test the switch with a vacuum pump and a test light to see if maybe thats the problem. It is pin C and D on the solenoid(where the white and blackandwhite wires go in.)The next thing I would do is to test the solenoid valve. For that I would connect terminal A to 12V and Terminal B to ground. Then I would apply vacuum to the intake side of the solenoid valve and see if the switch closes (again use a multimeter switched to the continuity setting connected between C and D). If it does not close either your solenoid valve or the EGR valve itself or some of the hoses between don t hold the vacuum. However this only workes for the older 2.8 (like 1989) which don t have an electronic EGR valve. Hope it helps some. Good luck
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