V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

Brake issue

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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 08:58 AM
  #1  
88 Camaro SC's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 125
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From: Whidbey Island
Car: 99 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Brake issue

Got a problem... I think. The pedal feel and brake response isn't as great as it should be, or so I think. For one, I know my 3.1 isn't my TA, and it won't brake like it, but it still should be able to do SOMETHING.

Well, here's how it is: first, the pedal is harder to push down. ie: if I have to slam on the brakes, there's no slam, it's a gradual process. Second, the brakes aren't as effective. Like I said, I can't even get close to locking them up. I know in just about all cars, driving around at 20-30mph you can mash the brake pedal and the car will jerk to a stop... mine just kinda "fades". So, what do you guys think is the problem? The brake system was supposedly rebuilt by the previous owner. He said he put on new rotors, pads, and lines. What could it be? Power brakes maybe could out? The cylinder maybe?
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 10:20 AM
  #2  
TomP's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
It sounds like there's air in the system. Did the previous owner replace the stuff himself? If he did, he might've let the master cylinder run dry and suck air, which isn't good. The master cylinder is a complete bitch to bleed. We have two things fighting us. First is the angle of the master cylinder's aluminum (or 82-84, steel) body. To bleed the m/c on the car, the body must be level with the ground- meaning you need to jack the back of the car up (WAY up! Very high!) to get this to happen- or, bench bleed it. Second is the quick-take-up valve. You can find this by feeling along the bottom of the m/c aluminum body; right by where it bolts to the brake booster, there's a bulge. That's the quick take up (QTU) valve.

The QTU valve is a mini reservoir, sorta like the big plastic one that we all see. It allows "immediate" fluid to go to the brakes. It's intention is to take up any gap between the disc brake pads and the rotor. The way the QTU valve works will prevent a normal bleed from working; it requires special techniques that I'm not going to type here- buy the GM service manual. (Too long to explain) You could also buy the http://www.brakebleeder.com tool, which comes with a video, which shows a plexiglass version of our exact master cylinder, and how air gets trapped, and how to get it out. Find it cheaper at http://www.toolparadise.com .
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