ANY water pump install tips?
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: reidsville,nc,usa
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Borg Warner 3.27 gears
ANY water pump install tips?
Yep..its that time to put a water pump in.It has a little play in it so I might as well do it.I need to put another pulley on it as well asis kida "wobbles".Has anyone dealt with the easiest way to put one in a '91 3.1?I'm gonna have to take the bracket(power steering pump I think) off.ANY comments would be nice before I get into it.Anything I need to mark or remember as I am pulling it out?
-Ken
-Ken
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,455
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
No tips other than everything has to be removed thats in the way.
I can give you some other impriotant tips regarding prevention maintenance-
1) use an Airtex water pump- best on the market for flow and reliability
2) make sure the tensioner is in good shape- thats generally the cause of a waterpump going bad. They get old and bind, causing extra strain on the waterpump pulley/shaft- thus causing failure and leak
I can give you some other impriotant tips regarding prevention maintenance-
1) use an Airtex water pump- best on the market for flow and reliability
2) make sure the tensioner is in good shape- thats generally the cause of a waterpump going bad. They get old and bind, causing extra strain on the waterpump pulley/shaft- thus causing failure and leak
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Get Torx bits...
Use a dremel w/ a scotch brite pad to scrape off the old gasket.
Keep the belt on to remove the bolts for the pulley.
Try and change the torx bolts to regular bolts.
Move the brackets around to get to the pump. Otherwise its a straightforward deal.
Use a dremel w/ a scotch brite pad to scrape off the old gasket.
Keep the belt on to remove the bolts for the pulley.
Try and change the torx bolts to regular bolts.
Move the brackets around to get to the pump. Otherwise its a straightforward deal.
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
be careful when prying the pump off.. most of the lower bolts on the pump are the same bolts that hold the top of the crankcase front cover on. Find a way to pry between the cover and the pump, not the block and the pump, or just be weary of breaking the seal on the front cover, as if you do, you're probably going to have to take the front cover off to reseal it.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Remember to just unbolt the p/s bracket from the water pump; some guys think they have to remove the bracket from the p/s pump itself, and they wind up pulling off the p/s pump pulley for no reason at all. 
And the timing chain cover is aluminum, so be careful when scraping the old gasket off.
I use Permatex Hi-Tack Gasket Sealant (metal can with brush in lid, $3 at pep boys) on the pump gasket.
Don't forget to buy a new lower rad hose; now is the easiest time to replace it!!
Good time to dump the old coolant out from the radiator... I usually don't screw with the pitcock valve. I crawl under the car, with the coolant COLD, and put safety glasses on. I put a big drainpan on my stomach, and remove the lower hose at the radiator. All the coolant dumps out in a few seconds, with a minimum amount of mess. If you try using the pitcock valve, you'll wind up with coolant all over the framerails.
If you forget to undo the water pump pulley with the serpentine belt still on, to keep the pump pulley from spinning, put a big c-clamp over the pulley. This will act as a "brake" to keep the pulley from spinning (the c-clamp will hit the engine and keep the pulley from moving).
A torque wrench is a must!
Use some blue RTV, or if you can find some, Teflon Sealant (white stuff). There are some water pump bolts that pass through coolant passageways; you'll need sealant on the threads to keep coolant from oozing up from the bolts. I use blue rtv.

And the timing chain cover is aluminum, so be careful when scraping the old gasket off.
I use Permatex Hi-Tack Gasket Sealant (metal can with brush in lid, $3 at pep boys) on the pump gasket.
Don't forget to buy a new lower rad hose; now is the easiest time to replace it!!
Good time to dump the old coolant out from the radiator... I usually don't screw with the pitcock valve. I crawl under the car, with the coolant COLD, and put safety glasses on. I put a big drainpan on my stomach, and remove the lower hose at the radiator. All the coolant dumps out in a few seconds, with a minimum amount of mess. If you try using the pitcock valve, you'll wind up with coolant all over the framerails.
If you forget to undo the water pump pulley with the serpentine belt still on, to keep the pump pulley from spinning, put a big c-clamp over the pulley. This will act as a "brake" to keep the pulley from spinning (the c-clamp will hit the engine and keep the pulley from moving).
A torque wrench is a must!
Use some blue RTV, or if you can find some, Teflon Sealant (white stuff). There are some water pump bolts that pass through coolant passageways; you'll need sealant on the threads to keep coolant from oozing up from the bolts. I use blue rtv.
Last edited by TomP; Oct 20, 2003 at 03:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: reidsville,nc,usa
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Borg Warner 3.27 gears
Geez....sounds like I got my work cut out for me.And check this out!!! I am going to put another pump pulley on it due to it had a little play in it. The dealership wanted $183!!!!!! I said I wanted the pulley only, not the water pump.They said "We know".CRAPPPPPP!!!!!....I am going to get one third party if I can or a salvage yard one.
-Ken
-Ken
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 39
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From: Huntsville, AL.
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Stock
Axle/Gears: Stock
NO, No, No
Originally posted by TomP
Wow, $183 for a pulley?! That sucks.
The job isn't that bad- the worst part is scraping off the old gasket.
Wow, $183 for a pulley?! That sucks.
The job isn't that bad- the worst part is scraping off the old gasket.
I HATE torx bolts. Who the hell invented those things?? Had to be a **** jockey.
Last edited by JohnTheBull; Oct 22, 2003 at 04:59 PM.
The wrenches ya need are 10, 11, 13, 15, maybe a 17mm
The Torque size is the SAME as on the seat belts inside your car, I believe it's a 55 or 55. Grab some, check on your seat belt attachments in your car, then you should have correct one.
Scraping is NOT recommended for removal of gasket. It should all almost remove by hand/fingernail.
Use sandpaper to get it off, then nail polish remover to help assist. Once surface clean then I like Gas-A-Sinch, yellow gluey stuff in a small can with a brush inside it.
IF ya CAN, let the project, after assembly, sit over night, for good gasket sealing. I also refill with water FIRST, let system pressurize, circulate check leaks. Then I remove the lower hose FROM THE WATER PUMP, drain the water from cooling system, refill/just top back off with fresh AntiFreeze, let system circulate, then refill with water or more AF. The ratio tends to be very close to the 50/50.
IF a leak, ya only loose/waste water
DEFEINETLY check change hoses/belts. I also place motor oil FILM inside all hose ends to slip on & help for sealing.
MAKE DAMN SURE the LOWER RADIATOR hose is ATTACHED! MAKE DAMN SURE IT'S SNUG & SECURE.
My lower hose, popped off & I blew my 2.8 because of that. Can't truly complain as I installed a 3.4 & sure like the upgrade!
PS all these details are really common sense.
Make sure you also remove the pump, EASILY, as the pump is resting/secured onto the timing chain cover & you do not want to create a leak on that housing, by removing the water pump.
Not a bad job at all.
May want to take/spray "Easy Off" Oven Cleaner (the smelly one is best!!) to the front area, to make the project a bit cleaner. Hose off with low pressure cool water
The Torque size is the SAME as on the seat belts inside your car, I believe it's a 55 or 55. Grab some, check on your seat belt attachments in your car, then you should have correct one.
Scraping is NOT recommended for removal of gasket. It should all almost remove by hand/fingernail.
Use sandpaper to get it off, then nail polish remover to help assist. Once surface clean then I like Gas-A-Sinch, yellow gluey stuff in a small can with a brush inside it.
IF ya CAN, let the project, after assembly, sit over night, for good gasket sealing. I also refill with water FIRST, let system pressurize, circulate check leaks. Then I remove the lower hose FROM THE WATER PUMP, drain the water from cooling system, refill/just top back off with fresh AntiFreeze, let system circulate, then refill with water or more AF. The ratio tends to be very close to the 50/50.
IF a leak, ya only loose/waste water
DEFEINETLY check change hoses/belts. I also place motor oil FILM inside all hose ends to slip on & help for sealing.
MAKE DAMN SURE the LOWER RADIATOR hose is ATTACHED! MAKE DAMN SURE IT'S SNUG & SECURE.
My lower hose, popped off & I blew my 2.8 because of that. Can't truly complain as I installed a 3.4 & sure like the upgrade!
PS all these details are really common sense.
Make sure you also remove the pump, EASILY, as the pump is resting/secured onto the timing chain cover & you do not want to create a leak on that housing, by removing the water pump.
Not a bad job at all.
May want to take/spray "Easy Off" Oven Cleaner (the smelly one is best!!) to the front area, to make the project a bit cleaner. Hose off with low pressure cool water
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