Check this out
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Check this out
I found this when I opened my diff to change the fluid and inspect it this morning.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=207712
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=207712
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Car: 1990 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1L v6
Transmission: Automatic
few too many neutral slams i take? how the **** did u do that.
you said u rebuilt it once already? why did u have to rebuild it originally and what was wrong?
you said u rebuilt it once already? why did u have to rebuild it originally and what was wrong?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
I rebuilt it once, about a year ago, because the front pinion bearing went bad. It chewed itself to death so badly that the bearing cage didn't even exist when I got it apart. No nuetral slams or hard burnouts or anything. I think when I put it back together I misadjusted the pinion depth and it just chewed the teeth off. Nylon gears...seriously. Do you think that Nylon gears can stand up to the manly power of the mighty 2.8??? -insert evil laugh here-
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 6
From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
You should do a quick check while it still together. wipe off the ring as mich as you can and smear some grease on it and see the patters th pinion gear makes.
Should be nie and even inthe middle. Looks like its adjusted so it on the far edge, from the broken pieces.
Matt
Should be nie and even inthe middle. Looks like its adjusted so it on the far edge, from the broken pieces.
Matt
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
yeah, I looked at the patteren on the gear and it is that the pinion is too far away from the ring gear. Kinda weird too because i remember cecking and re-checking it when I assembled it to begin with and it was fine. I just don't know what happened.
Anyone got any tips or know how to get the pinion depth right the first time. When i rebuilt it last time I was forced to use the ol' guess and check meathod. Assemble parts minus crush sleeve, check pattern, disassemble and adjust accordingly. Once the pattern is good, you take the front bearing out, pop in the crush sleeve, and tighten it down to 25 inch/lbs and hope to heaven that you got it right.
Ever since I rebuilt it to begin with(rush job without access to proper tools, plus the fact that everyone said that only professionals can do it) it whined like a mo' foe. i figure, if only pros can do it, then how did the first person to do it themselves figure it out? If you have tips or have done it and are willing to share, please let me know. I am going to drive the car like it is until I either get all the replacment parts(full rebuild kit and new ring/pinion set) or all the teeth come off and it just doesn't move anymore.
PLEASE HARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE ON THIS SUBJECT.
Anyone got any tips or know how to get the pinion depth right the first time. When i rebuilt it last time I was forced to use the ol' guess and check meathod. Assemble parts minus crush sleeve, check pattern, disassemble and adjust accordingly. Once the pattern is good, you take the front bearing out, pop in the crush sleeve, and tighten it down to 25 inch/lbs and hope to heaven that you got it right.
Ever since I rebuilt it to begin with(rush job without access to proper tools, plus the fact that everyone said that only professionals can do it) it whined like a mo' foe. i figure, if only pros can do it, then how did the first person to do it themselves figure it out? If you have tips or have done it and are willing to share, please let me know. I am going to drive the car like it is until I either get all the replacment parts(full rebuild kit and new ring/pinion set) or all the teeth come off and it just doesn't move anymore.
PLEASE HARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE ON THIS SUBJECT.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
When I looked at the pics the drive side pattern appeared high to the outside. Thought maybe the lighting was off, now I see that it was what I saw.
Couple things. If you re-used the original gears when you replaced the pinion bearing then no shim changes required. Just put is back together with the same shims it came with.
For the new gears. . . Find the pinion shim that was originally used for that housing (your current one). The shims are matched to the housing more then to the gears. Then just set the backlash to a reasonable measurement and do a pattern check. If the pattern is off a little shouldn't need to move it more then a couple of thou.
When you tightened the pinion nut to 25 inch/lbs, that was drag (pre-load), correct? Good.
RBob.
Couple things. If you re-used the original gears when you replaced the pinion bearing then no shim changes required. Just put is back together with the same shims it came with.
For the new gears. . . Find the pinion shim that was originally used for that housing (your current one). The shims are matched to the housing more then to the gears. Then just set the backlash to a reasonable measurement and do a pattern check. If the pattern is off a little shouldn't need to move it more then a couple of thou.
When you tightened the pinion nut to 25 inch/lbs, that was drag (pre-load), correct? Good.
RBob.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Car: 1990 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1L v6
Transmission: Automatic
check the contact pattern on the teeh while it is under load. put the yellow marker paste on the gear and lower the car and drive it back 20ft and forward 20ft slowly. doesnt matter if the cover is off and its out of oil.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
I used a new ring and pinion the first time, and when I removed the original one, it didn't have a shim behind the bearing. the only shims that existed in the entire rear end were the carrier shims. Kinda makes it hard to reuse the old ones.
The 25 in/lbs. was the bearing preload. Also, the backlash was right on the mark before I installed the rear back into the car(took the entire rear axel out because I actually had to use a press to get the original pinion out).
I was looking at pinion depth tools online last night: $300 for the damn thing. i guess the ol' guess and check meathod is the way to go. I'll get it right this time. Now that I know more about what i'm doing, it should go a lot quicker and easier.
Thanks for all the help guys. Keep the tips comin'!!!
The 25 in/lbs. was the bearing preload. Also, the backlash was right on the mark before I installed the rear back into the car(took the entire rear axel out because I actually had to use a press to get the original pinion out).
I was looking at pinion depth tools online last night: $300 for the damn thing. i guess the ol' guess and check meathod is the way to go. I'll get it right this time. Now that I know more about what i'm doing, it should go a lot quicker and easier.
Thanks for all the help guys. Keep the tips comin'!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BumpaD82
Tech / General Engine
37
Feb 26, 2016 02:57 PM
Numbah-1
Transmissions and Drivetrain
19
Sep 12, 2015 08:57 PM




