3.1 Comin' Together... Pics inside (PG-13)
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
3.1 Comin' Together... Pics inside (PG-13)
Here's a pic of the block...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
a REAL 3/4 Race Cam!!
Last edited by Ovrclck350; Dec 9, 2003 at 01:02 AM.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Cam card... 422/444" valve lift, 204/214.. should be nice!
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Damn nice job. I suspect in a week or two we'll see news about a cloud of rubber smoke covering a 3 mile radius over Doward's street.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
LOL, no, sorry guys.
New moly rings and new cam/lifters means full breaking on the engine.
600 miles, and then the turbo will be put on.
New moly rings and new cam/lifters means full breaking on the engine.
600 miles, and then the turbo will be put on.
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
That doesn't mean anything Doward. We know you want to fly that thing as soon as possible (doing it the right way of course). So I suspect you'll drive to Georgia and back or something to speed up the process.
edit: BTW, you should have rated this thread XXX because that is one sexy engine.
edit: BTW, you should have rated this thread XXX because that is one sexy engine.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed

Thanks... let's see if I can get the heads bolted on, cam/lifters in, and lashed today....
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Check that freeze plug on the front of the engine. Looks like it has leaked before.
Saved the polish/port pictures
Keep on wrenching
BTW, anyone notice the date on his camera is wrong
Saved the polish/port pictures

Keep on wrenching

BTW, anyone notice the date on his camera is wrong
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
It's a tear in the space time continuum! We're all gonna die!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
The time is wrong?
There's a good explanation for that... it's not my camera
There's a good explanation for that... it's not my camera
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
yeah, they are just sitting there. Next is the manifold gaskets, then tighten everything to specs.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Is that some colored assembly lube or just spraypaint to "brighten the whole thing up a tad"?
Lookin good bro....
Lookin good bro....
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Actually, the blue is oil, and the red is grease... Dunno why the colors came out like that, but it looks cool
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Sure does... Where do you buy your oil, KB Toys?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Wal mart! 
It's... uh... festive?
Update:
Valves lashed, intake being cleaned, then maybe polished (inside, if I've got time)
I'm tired of being without the wheels.
More pics will be coming soon!

It's... uh... festive?
Update:
Valves lashed, intake being cleaned, then maybe polished (inside, if I've got time)
I'm tired of being without the wheels.
More pics will be coming soon! Supreme Member

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 1
From: Central FL
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
gonna drop it in this weekend? then by end of this year/beginning of next, have timeslips for us? we want you to get it done the right way but, we've been waiting for some numbers for a long time now!
doward dont ***** foot that motor. Moly rings, and cam lifter should breakin in the first 15 minutes. if they dont youve got issues. so take that bitch run it at 3400rpm right off the bat for 4-5 minutesrun it at 2500 for another 10 then take that ****er out and beath the holy **** out off it up and down the street a few times. . then change the oil. then go beat the f out o it for another 1-2 hrs. then put the turbo back on. engies run just how you break them in. if your break it in like a ***** it wil run like a *****. if you break it in hard itll run hard.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
V here... i give it a big "how bout no ya phreaky dutch bastard!"
seriously, the engine wont be a *****.. this is the only wheels D and his old lady will have for a while so we wanna make sure its ok for a while.. engines are made to run to redline, but we need reliable... besides, its built well, so it will still hold the pressure after say 5k miles.. but once we got some tinker time... i see no reason why we cant run 10 constantly, and maybe 14 psi spikes... to really see what she'll do..
We know you all are drooling waiting for this to come together.. and trust me, no more than us... but it just takes a little more time.. it has been done before... and we can do it again.. :lala:
cheers mates!
seriously, the engine wont be a *****.. this is the only wheels D and his old lady will have for a while so we wanna make sure its ok for a while.. engines are made to run to redline, but we need reliable... besides, its built well, so it will still hold the pressure after say 5k miles.. but once we got some tinker time... i see no reason why we cant run 10 constantly, and maybe 14 psi spikes... to really see what she'll do..
We know you all are drooling waiting for this to come together.. and trust me, no more than us... but it just takes a little more time.. it has been done before... and we can do it again.. :lala:
cheers mates!
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From: HAUNTING THE CHAPEL
Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by Doward
a REAL 3/4 Race Cam!!
a REAL 3/4 Race Cam!!
Hey Doward, I've been checking out your posts for a while, great job. keep up the good work. I love odd-ball engines and projects.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by SOLID LIFTER
What are the black boxes covering? lol. j/k.
Hey Doward, I've been checking out your posts for a while, great job. keep up the good work. I love odd-ball engines and projects.
What are the black boxes covering? lol. j/k.
Hey Doward, I've been checking out your posts for a while, great job. keep up the good work. I love odd-ball engines and projects.
ROFL - I wonder who did that? *laughes*
Anyone ever notice how things ALWAYS look so much less complicated going back together? Seriously, I can't believe how compact this V6 is. I think I've seen 4 bangers bigger than it!

Just need to bolt the clutch assembly up, and drop her back in. Here goes guys.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
Doward again:
Engine is IN! Oh man, you guys just missed an immortal scene... I wish I had a pic... the engine was going in, but wasn't seated on the mounts (like 30º off of being even) and we fight and fight, and it just won't go on right. So I, seeing that the motor needs to be rotated back even, go to grab the engine hoist to tie a cable and pull on the exhaust manifold.... well -
Vortex gets pissed at it, climbs up into the car, picks the damn engine up, and rotates in on BARE HANDED!!
Moral of the story is:
Don't F with V!
and chicken tastes good... :hail:
Engine is IN! Oh man, you guys just missed an immortal scene... I wish I had a pic... the engine was going in, but wasn't seated on the mounts (like 30º off of being even) and we fight and fight, and it just won't go on right. So I, seeing that the motor needs to be rotated back even, go to grab the engine hoist to tie a cable and pull on the exhaust manifold.... well -
Vortex gets pissed at it, climbs up into the car, picks the damn engine up, and rotates in on BARE HANDED!!
Moral of the story is:
Don't F with V!
and chicken tastes good... :hail:
Supreme Member

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 1
From: Central FL
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
sweet!....i take it that you're having a short break then getting back to it to hook everything back up so you can start driving it tomorrow then take a road trip this weekend!?!? meanwhile, i'll be pulling mine apart...
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
D again:
Yeah, cam break in tonight, and then start the 500 miles of seating.
big yay! Heading out to go back to work on it... now to bolt up the tranny xmember, and tq arm mount, then exhaust, then intake, then ... fire it up. :0
Yeah, cam break in tonight, and then start the 500 miles of seating.
big yay! Heading out to go back to work on it... now to bolt up the tranny xmember, and tq arm mount, then exhaust, then intake, then ... fire it up. :0
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
Vortex here.... im taking a sabbatical for a lil while.. dont know for how long, but my 2 collapsed discs are like... now more collapsed.... and stuff.
I left Doward to the hard stuff, hes gonna put the upper intake on, plug in the injectors, tps, all the wires etc.
Ya know, im all for performance, but geez, when you're a Mustang guy, it is really hard to put up with this much.. lol..
dont worry tho... we will break the engine... in... and dont worry, the turbo terror will be back.. now we can do it right.
I left Doward to the hard stuff, hes gonna put the upper intake on, plug in the injectors, tps, all the wires etc.
Ya know, im all for performance, but geez, when you're a Mustang guy, it is really hard to put up with this much.. lol..
dont worry tho... we will break the engine... in... and dont worry, the turbo terror will be back.. now we can do it right.
Dude obviously neither of you have exstensive rebuilding experience. If it takes 500 miles for moly rings to seat then something has gone terriably wrong. the onyl rings ive ever seen take that long to seat are hard faced chrome rings. thats it. and i dare you to let that flat tappet cam sit and idle after you start it up the first time. youll be welcomed with alot of flat lobes for sure.
Seriously. ive built lots & lots & lots of engines. BREAK THAT BITCH IN HARD. if it blows up you did something wrong.
Seriously. ive built lots & lots & lots of engines. BREAK THAT BITCH IN HARD. if it blows up you did something wrong.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
That's what's gonna freak me out when I rebuild my motor... to start the sucker up first time and bring it up to 3 or 4 grand... wow.
And funstick, at least he knew enough not to say "chrome-moly" rings!
Lookin' good Doward & Vortex! Make that motor sing!
And funstick, at least he knew enough not to say "chrome-moly" rings!

Lookin' good Doward & Vortex! Make that motor sing!
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
All I can say about piston rings seating is... It took 1500 miles for my motor to stop burning oil with the new rings in.
They were factory cheapo rings, nothing special. Wish I knew their material but I'm not a hardcore mechanic by any means.
They were factory cheapo rings, nothing special. Wish I knew their material but I'm not a hardcore mechanic by any means. Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
Doward (yet again)
I never said anything about idling. You CAN NOT let your cam break in at an idle - you won't get enough oil flow there.
I plan on priming the heck out of it, before even firing it up.
The motor's not seeing the upper end of 3k rpms until 500miles have been covered.
Sure, I can force the rings to seat quicker, but then the longetivity becomes a factor. This is a daily driver, still, and I've had my break in routine setup between myself, Vortex, 3 seperate message boards, two local mechanics, one shop teacher, and one graduate from UTI...
Besides, I'll have 500 miles on it within a week. What's the harm in waiting a little longer, before running her hard?
I never said anything about idling. You CAN NOT let your cam break in at an idle - you won't get enough oil flow there.
I plan on priming the heck out of it, before even firing it up.
The motor's not seeing the upper end of 3k rpms until 500miles have been covered.
Sure, I can force the rings to seat quicker, but then the longetivity becomes a factor. This is a daily driver, still, and I've had my break in routine setup between myself, Vortex, 3 seperate message boards, two local mechanics, one shop teacher, and one graduate from UTI...
Besides, I'll have 500 miles on it within a week. What's the harm in waiting a little longer, before running her hard?
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
BTW - Intake goes on, and altenator, PS pump, and A/C compressor go back in with the radiator in the morning.
Freaking 40 degree FLORIDA weather. Sunshine state my rear.
Cam breakin @ noon tomorrow!
Freaking 40 degree FLORIDA weather. Sunshine state my rear.

Cam breakin @ noon tomorrow!
There is alot of mythology regarding break in periods. Breakin periods go back to the days of gray iron piston rings and bearing clearnces being les then exact. everythig was built tight in the hopes that it would loosen up. Today however all breakin is done at the factory. that means the the engine is run and run hard at the engine plant. has its all changed. is installed in your car then own the road you go.
The materials sceince has changed alot fo. Moly faced rings seat 100X faster then ductile iron,gray iron, and hard crhomed rings. the other thing is bearing clearances. is was no big deal to get a engine from the factory and have the bearing clearances in the 0002 raneg OUCH !!!. 99% of that has changed with modern mass prodction equpiment.
i dont see nascar engines being broke in for 500 miles.they shove them in rev the bejsus out of them and then change the oil to clear the cam lube. then its off to the races. There is no 500 miles breakin cycle. call DEI .
The othe issue with breakin was thermal cycling. you wanted to temper the iron in the cylinder walls just so to keep them round. most block made since oh 1980 or so are factory induction heated pre machining and post casting. this stop clearnce changes.
Really breakin is a myth. if it breaks during ( break in ) then its broke. and babying it wont help it either. bettr to get the lube on the cylinder walls and keep the cam wet. That will more then imporve the life of the engine then running it at low speeds starving it for oil.
As stated moly ring break in and seat within 15 minutes of start up. if they dont. tear it back down and find out why. usually bore finish.
As for te main and rod bearings did you plastiguage ? should be between .003 and 0.004 clearnce. if not itll either bind or have low oil pressure. What the rod side clearnce ? 0.003 ? did you check crank shaft endplay ? 0.0035-0.0045 should be on traget ?
whats the ring gaps ? did you check all these ? if not you could be in for load of trouble.
thats why i dont baby my motors. i knwo what the specs are. stuff doesnt seat its where it supposed to be right from the start.
The materials sceince has changed alot fo. Moly faced rings seat 100X faster then ductile iron,gray iron, and hard crhomed rings. the other thing is bearing clearances. is was no big deal to get a engine from the factory and have the bearing clearances in the 0002 raneg OUCH !!!. 99% of that has changed with modern mass prodction equpiment.
i dont see nascar engines being broke in for 500 miles.they shove them in rev the bejsus out of them and then change the oil to clear the cam lube. then its off to the races. There is no 500 miles breakin cycle. call DEI .
The othe issue with breakin was thermal cycling. you wanted to temper the iron in the cylinder walls just so to keep them round. most block made since oh 1980 or so are factory induction heated pre machining and post casting. this stop clearnce changes.
Really breakin is a myth. if it breaks during ( break in ) then its broke. and babying it wont help it either. bettr to get the lube on the cylinder walls and keep the cam wet. That will more then imporve the life of the engine then running it at low speeds starving it for oil.
As stated moly ring break in and seat within 15 minutes of start up. if they dont. tear it back down and find out why. usually bore finish.
As for te main and rod bearings did you plastiguage ? should be between .003 and 0.004 clearnce. if not itll either bind or have low oil pressure. What the rod side clearnce ? 0.003 ? did you check crank shaft endplay ? 0.0035-0.0045 should be on traget ?
whats the ring gaps ? did you check all these ? if not you could be in for load of trouble.
thats why i dont baby my motors. i knwo what the specs are. stuff doesnt seat its where it supposed to be right from the start.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
to say that a certain procedure works for all engines is also a mis-nomer. Other than the metallic compound ( i.e. stress and materials) you have different setups for different results. For instance you could go with straight-cut ring gaps, angle cut, or total seal rings... As far as bearings and cam.. who said idle or low speed?
We're not going to "baby" this engine by any means.. but I do have experience in build-ups. And you can read all you want, but there are some things that only experience can prove.
We're not going to "baby" this engine by any means.. but I do have experience in build-ups. And you can read all you want, but there are some things that only experience can prove.
Originally posted by vortex
to say that a certain procedure works for all engines is also a mis-nomer. Other than the metallic compound ( i.e. stress and materials) you have different setups for different results. For instance you could go with straight-cut ring gaps, angle cut, or total seal rings... As far as bearings and cam.. who said idle or low speed?
We're not going to "baby" this engine by any means.. but I do have experience in build-ups. And you can read all you want, but there are some things that only experience can prove.
to say that a certain procedure works for all engines is also a mis-nomer. Other than the metallic compound ( i.e. stress and materials) you have different setups for different results. For instance you could go with straight-cut ring gaps, angle cut, or total seal rings... As far as bearings and cam.. who said idle or low speed?
We're not going to "baby" this engine by any means.. but I do have experience in build-ups. And you can read all you want, but there are some things that only experience can prove.
Making this particular statement assure me that you have neither the experience or the know how to understand engine breaking in. you clearly stated you were using moly coated nodular iron rings.
As i stated before. Bore finish will have alot to due with seating time. and if you have used pistons and a unhoned bore then your gonna realy have to run that thing pretty hard right away to seat those rings. If they dont seat within 10-15 minutes after startup you may as well tear the engine down and start over. Having only been building engines for the beter part of the last 10 yrs i think i might have just a tiny bit of insight. Then again its my day job to.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
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From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
Think what you want, doesn't bother me. Im not gonna be a git and argue to somebody i've never met. I know what im doing. Whatever Doward has said under my name, i have'nt the foggiest.
Have a nice day.
Have a nice day.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Originally posted by Doward
Awww man.... the 3.1 died.
Awww man.... the 3.1 died.



