Ok, heres my plan of mods to be done, tell me if im on a good track with what im doing, if a part wont work, or theres a better one out there for me to check out.
3.1 block
3.4 heads
Crane cam with 204, 214, .423, .423
1.6 roller rockers
Drumming up the idea of a 3.1 beretta intake
smog, ac, ps delete
larger injectors (22?)
Hopefully the pacesetter headers
2.5 inch catback exhaust (dyno max)
bored thorttle body (how much?)
Ported intake (if i keep the 3.1 intake)
Usual tune up stuff like plugs wires coil yada yada.
And the final thing is do u think this thing is gonna work when completed? What kinda numbers do u think it will run with a T5? Lastly, whats the word on doward/vortex's turbo? i think i read they were gonna market it?

 

If you got the motor that the heads came off of, you're ALOT better off building off of it. The 3.4 came with the compucam 2030 (a Crane Cams cam). as for the intake, it will face towards your winshield. Measure the length of the runners, if their longer, it would produce a gain. I measured the 3.4 intake today, its runners are shorter than the 2.8 . I would imagine you get more torque using the 2.8 intake (lower in the band anyway). The heads are the same for every motor (2.8, 3.1, 3.4). The only difference in the 3.4 heads are the valve spring seats are meatier. You'll run extremly rich with 22 lb injectors, use whatever the stock block called for. The turbo that Dow and Vortex are working on isn't being marketed yet, but you could always follow along and do a custom turbo.

 

technically the 3.4 did not have the crane cam in it but, yes, the grind numbers are almost, if not exactly identical to the crane cam.

 

What rear gears do you have?

 

As soon as I get a Saturday off, I'll let you know what those mods will run.

You should be a low/mid 16, depending on how well you can launch and row that T5.

As for the turbo project, see the needing a day off part again

It's coming, though.

 

ok guys thanks for that help. AM91, mind telling me some of your mods on your 3.1?

 

what is it... 218º cam, 1.6 roller tip rockers, 10.75:1 cr, 4.11 lsd rear, port/polished heads/intake, headers.. He's got the best built N/A 60º V6 I've yet seen!

 

doward's pretty much right on the dot....4.10s though. 3.1 bored +.030" most of the rest of the stuff is custom or has some touch of 'custom' on it. me and my dad are going to what our gears...3.73s going in my car and 4.10 going in his s-10. this part is, after doward gets a day off, no pressure doward. lol.....just kidding.

 

I'd like to find a posi with same or very slightly lower gear then whats in mine.

This is first I have heard what was in am91's. I'd be scared with the CR and them gears. Do you have a custom chip in it? I'm still trying to figure that stuff out.

 

Mod #1

3.73 Rear Gears Auto
4.10 Rear Gears Stick


Then your mods...

 

dale, that's the first time that you had heard what i've got? its been posted before. its all on my cardomain site too, www.cardomain.com/id/am91camro_rs if anyones want to see the info on that page. why does everyone say 3.73s for auto and 4.10s for stick? just curious what the reasoning is for this...

 

I don't know, I would think that it would be the other way around since the gearing on the T5 is lower in each gear as compared to it's automatic counterpart.

 

Ok heres a updated plan, what kinda hp/1/4's can i predict with this setup? Im thinking 200hp and a low 16 second 1/4
Ported and polished heads
1.6 roller rockers
ported and polished intake
Bored thorottle body
SMOG, a/c, power steering delete(maybe)
The crane cam orignally posted
Headers, if i can find some.
And for little things, 93 octane gas, removed rear seat (just for dyno run and track)

 

Ok i want the crane cams 1.6 roller rockers for a SBC chevy right? Uses the same pushrods right? For a timing chain, is that a better than stock one i can get, or just get a stock replacement? does anyone know how large in diameter the cylinder hole should be? What other things can i do to get more power out of the motor? So far, its ported and polished intake and heads, crane cam, 1.6 roller rockers, new timing chain, bunch of pullys gone, and hopefully headers if the guy ever responds to my email. Can i use 4.3 underdrive pullys? Are they worth it?

 

for the rockers...you talkin about roller tip rocker or full roller? that makes a diff on compatibility. pushrods, same. i'd use a stock timing chain unless you wanna spend almost $100 for a roller. i forgot the exact stock bore of the cylinders, if you wanna bore it, i'd go +.030". who you talked to about the headers? no, you cannot use 4.3 UD pullies.

 

2.8/3.1 bore is 3.50
3.4 is 3.625

Why do people keep saying 4.3 stuff works on our engines? NOTHING does

I'm working on making sbc rockers fit on a 6/60, and I am going to have to buy new studs to make them work.

Timing chain, if you plan to abuse it, get the roller, otherwise stock is fine.

Pullys, if your not going to install stereo system, and dont have power windows, locks, etc. I'd get them.

 

I was talking about full roller and using fiero valve covers so they clear. Do they fit on the existing studs? Dale, could u help point me in the direction of pullys? I looked on jegs and summit and couldnt find them, all i need is i guess, a alternator pully, and crankshaft pully, and a water pump pully, i dont have any other accessorys on the motor.

 

I am refuring to full rollers also, and you must change the studs. I tryed making this setup work w/o. It is easier/safer to change the studs UNLESS you can get some 1996 LT4 roller rockers with the tighten nuts.

Aspracing.com. They only make crank and alt pullys. WP will have to be special made. Also, everyone I know on other cars with tripple pully set has had overheating problems.

 

how do the studs come out? No problem having to replace them though. Explain why they overheated, i dont understand how less pullys make the waterpump work slower.

 

Crank pully spins everything tad slower.
Water pump pully make itself spin even slower.
Alt pully makes itself spin even slower.


Studs come out with 18mm socket and BF ratchet

 

ok, i understand now, what should i do to remedy it? electric waterpump? How about getting the alternator to spin faster? Bigger pully? Ive been working on trying to get the studs out but i dont have a deep enough socket yet. Looks like a stop at sears for me tomorrow. Also im now bringing this up, before i start porting the intake, this part (see pics) broke off from the bottem intake, can i pull the rest of it out and get a plug for it? What size plug will i need, 1 inch? How do u do a throttle body coolent bypass?

 

When you buy a dual underdrive kit, you get smaller crank, larger alt. Their is no waterpump pully for us that I know of.

That thing braking off, where it did, no clue man . However, the two that go to the TB usually get jumped off. I am planning on re-doing that whole setup duing engine swap. You CAN NOT plug it off, that is what goes to your heater core. May need new intake, then elbow, short rubber hose to the bent pipe, then back to natural routing.

 

i can get the pieces of it out of the intake, guess i need to get that piece from the junkyard. Ok, so i need a smaller crank pully, larger alternator pully, and where, if at all, can i get a electric water pump?

 

havent heard of one for a v6

Try getting rest of that pipe out of the intake. If you cant, get a scrap yard one, and put an elbow out of that, and route it over to the pipe that goes around the alt.

 

I would definitely not just plug that thing.. that would also double as a heater core bypass.

As far as the TB bypass, you see those two small hoses on the pipe that broke off? Remove one of the hoses, and run the open end of the remaining hose to the connection you just removed hose from.

 

i put a brass fitting in mine. you can get the one that screws into the intake then sodder a very short straight peice in, sodder a 90* elbow on there. put a few little dots of sodder around the end of that elbow, where the hose will slide on. slide the hose on and clamp it. i had to file just a tad bit of metal off of the elbow the clear a peice of the timing cover that stuck up. looks cleaner and fits nicely.

IF you keep that stock peice, i used some little rubber caps and clamps and just capped off those little tubes that stick up. lots easier than running a hose to connect the two.

 

AM91, could u take a picture of that for me?

 

I reccomend against capping off the TB hoses, also.. something you guys probably have never seen or heard of, but I discovered when chopping that pipe to bits getting the coolant system to work with my turbo.. anyone ever wonder how exactly that section of pipe promotes flow through the TB hoses? Ever notice how the two pipes enter the main pipe at differing points along the pipe? There's a restrictor between those two points.

EDIT.. I notice from the pictures that the 3.1 guys seem to have gotten a different pipe.. you probably could stare into it and notice the restrictor =P

 

I would go 4.10's in both as long as you do not drive over 50 miles one way at a time. The subru wrx has like 4.88 gears in it from my understanding in its manual, but it has more gears to use to lower the final ratio.

 

why not cap off those tubes? i ran mine for several months with little rubber caps on there and it never ran hot because of that.

 

another shot

 

AM91, thats what I plan on doing to mine. What threads was needed for that?

 

go to homedepot, plumbing isle, find the brass fittings and i believe it was 1/2", i'll post if it was different.

 

1/2" Pipe thread...

 

heres what you need to do on the intake problem. Go to Sears hardware and buy a dugout(might have a different name) you will have to beat that in the screw with a hammer. Twist the broken screw out of the intake(very carefully). Secondly you will need a 1/2 tap to re-thread that hole. Once again not the easiest thing to do. The actual plug for this can be found at Advance Auto parts for about 12 dollars, you will not have to buy a new intake.. Do not under any condition plug this hole. This is a common problem with this intake. I have replaced 2, on two differnt cars. The common cause of this is not changing the anti-freeze, it corrodes and eats the threads out. This will save you the time of replacing the intake and is alot cheaper. This should run you about 30 dollars total.


ps if you live anywhere close to Charlotte Nc, I would be glad to do the job.

 

well i can go to a local junkyard and get a intake for $5 or so, and all it cost me is a hour or less of my time. I havent got started on ANY of my mods yet, waiting till i have all the money to get my parts and put it all together and install it, hopefully by the end of june.

 

if I could get it for 5 dollars I would go that route. I wonder why gm didn't see this as a design flaw, I mean every camaro I see with 60,000 miles has this problem. I am going to change my buddies 3.4 out next week. Of course everyone I have changed has been on the car, and I don't care to pull the intake off. Something about putting those injectors back in I don't care for.

btw have you thought about the crank pulley option? I put the alternator and crank pulleys on mine and felt some gains, although you really feel it in the 3500 to 5000 powerband, not off the line.I am also considering the headers, and chiping mine. From what I read the headers should be here in the next 2months or so. Keep us posted on how it goes, these engines aren't very stout but there should be no reason we shouldn't be able to pull out at least 215 cranking horses or more without having to spend alot.

ps I hope you didn't take offense to my last post, I didnt want to come off sounding like an ahole, being new here.

 

im still looking for a 3.4 block/crank/pistons to use, i hope for 200 hp at the crank with my mods. Anyone got a idea of what it will cost to get the intake and heads ported and polished?

 

I poliished my heads myself

Its costing 120-150'ish for a 3angle, check deck, and new seals.