Ok This weekend I am replacing my brake lines with stell braided lines from Eral's Performance and putting in new front calipars(SP?). The rear brakes were replacd a year ago so they are good. Fronts are missing the "O" rings in the bolt holes. I found out that this is what is causing the anoying kaklunk kaklunk sond when I go over a rough road.

Any ways my questions what size flarenut wrenches do I need, and does any one have any tips for this sort of job?
Thanks!

 

You need a 3/8 allen wrench type socket or wrench itself to get the guide pins out, and I believe an 11/12mm socket to remove the brake hose. You may end up replacing one or both calipers, depending on whether there is damage to the guide pin holes. Don't forget to check the dust boots around the caliper pistons for cracking or other damage. If they are cracked, take the caliper and get a replacement, as the piston may freeze in the bore if the dust boot is bad enough. Don't forget to use never-seez on the guide pins when reinstalling them.. you or the person you sell the car to (who knows what could happen by the time the pads wear out) will thank you later.

 

Well I was replacing both front calipers any way. So I didn't have to guess wether or not they were any good. Man I though it was going to be a 2 hour job. Turned out to be an all day project!

Thanks to the darn flraenut wrenches I bought to of the fitings are now stripped, but not so badly that a pair of pliars can't be used on them.

So far I am very happy with the steel braided break lines. They actualy have a noticable impact on stopping distance. Witch is a big plus for me.

 

Ha. At least you didn't have to DRILL out one of the guide pins and end up with a stripped hole anyways. That is the reason to use never-seez. It took me three total months, on and off, to fix the brakes. First I had to get the calipers off (fat chance-the pins on the pass side were so rusted in place I had to cut the caliper off and then drill out the lower pin), the driver's side caliper had to be replaced because the piston was seized by rust (no wonder why it was pulling to the right!) and eventually the pass side caliper had to go because the pin guide holes were literally stretched out and destroyed. All that for a set of pads and hoses... damn DPO really screwed me over...

 

I actually prefer a LARGE (like 12" or 15") open-ended adjustable wrench for flare nuts. I've found out the same thing you did; that a flare nut wrench can ruin the nut. I think the larger wrench allows for more direct torque and less side-loading than a smaller flare-nut wrench does. Plus the jaws are thicker, which gives a better grip.

Just be sure to put the "load bearing jaw" on the correct side. Here's a diagram I drew up- yes it's possible to use an open-ended adjustable wrench improperly!

 

Yeah. I found that open wrenches work a ton better. One trick I had to do was use steady presure instead really trying to wrench on it. After a few momnets they would crack free with out stripping the nuts.

I can't belive they use such soft metal for these fittings. It's crazy!.

the ride into work this morning was so much better. no pull to the left when I brake and they don't fell like the lines are going pop when I step on the brakes. It was starting to get scary! Well at lest the stock lines lasted 12 years!


It was pretty neat looking at the damage the hopping caliper caused. The guid bolts had groves ware the calipers would smack them.