I started on another project today. Have to take the plenum over to a friend to have it TIG welded to fix a couple of pinhole leaks so I figures I would get this project ready and have him TIG the Earls fittings into place at the same time for the electric waterpump..

This project will not go onto the car until the start of next summer when I can have the car down for a week routing and tapping the plumbing lines and getting the flow pressure correct- not too much, not too little (Mainly not too much pressure from the 40GPM Meziere remote pump I am debating using. I have to figure what relief ports lines I can route on the intake manifold.

I will start with the standard S10 timing cover I picked up off of EBAY. Rotation direction of the stock pump doesn't matter, so no need for the later serpentine design.

 

Basic game plan.

Hoise routing is not shown correctly, just an example. It will route behind and around both sides of serp belt for easy belt removal.

I will make an aluminum plate and mount a dummy idler pulley unp and to the right of WPpulley center. this is needed for proper tension around crank pulley so no belt slippage.

 

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w00t w00t!!

 

another project, sweet

 

Cool! I always wanted to do that, but the cost of the pump I want is too much for me to justify. Which water pump are you going with? Meziere's remote? Or another brand?

I never thought of keeping the water pump pulley in place tho- but I guess since I'm a v-belt guy, it wouldn't be a big deal on my motor if it were missing!

 

that's awesome, man! i have thought about trying to do an electirc or remote or somthing but i haven't come up with anything easy to do yet. i hadn't thought about plumbing it quite like you are planning to but that looks good!

 

Thats a good point Tom about the earlier cars with V-belts. This would easier without serpentine. There would be no need at all for an idler(dummy) pulley and fabricated plate to mount it.

Here's the pump I'm pretty much settled on. It is a Meziere Heavy duty unit and plenty sufficient reliability for street use. The atandard motor puts out 35GPM, This one does 40GPM and is a better quality motor. Their top flowing unit is 55GPH (too much).
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...BBBAF1BA318%7D

I am debating mounting the pump where the coolant overflow resevoir currently is and using a diffent catch can for overflow.
Yhe plan is for a V8 BeColl rad and I will have a 20AN alum bung welded to the outlet port of the radiator. The Meziere pump accepts a 1"NPT/20An adapter inlet, and two 12AN outlet feeds that will route directly into the timing cover fittings pictured above.
The V8 radiator already has provisions for the heater core hose to route directly back into it rather than the stock waterpump and and two other lines will "t" into this return line to reduce pressure going into the heater core so it doesn't burst. I am thinking of running two inline shutoff valves to and from the heater core and trashing the crappy plastic vacuum controled heater valve. I'll just open both valves in the winter time to get hot coolant to the heater core when I need the heater in those months.

I dropped the part off to get TIG welded. I am hoping it will work with welding the earls fittings permanatly in place into the timing cover. Richard told me he thinks it will be no problem, but one never knows with casted aluminum and the thin earls fittings. I assured him he had no responsibilty and just try it. If it doesn't work, just trash it and scrap that idea.

 

Added info on GPM (Gallons per minute) flow comparison. The Meziere LT1 conversion kit has a standard motor that delivrs 43GPM and the HD version supplies 55GPM on the camaro V8's with LT1 and the current LS1 replacement electric WP's. So the 40GPM should be fine on my car without too much pressure into the heater core.

The conversion of the LT1 from belt driven to electric pump freed up a dyno'd just over 10HP. We have the same basic internal impeller design and will hold the same on our motors. It will be as equvilent of power increase as running with the A/C on then turning it off. Thats a significant seat of the pants difference in power.

Better gas milage

Engine will rev quicker

10HP gain from 300 to 310HP (LT1) good gain=3%
10HP gain from 135 to 145HP (2.8) great gain=8%

 

Do you really think the heater core will bust? I wonder what the flow rate is of our stock pump... although, you are going for the heavy duty Meziere pump. That's a sweet pump, especially with the low current draw! And yeah, that's the pump I had looked at, except I was gonna get it in anodized blue, and only the 35 gph one.

Have you seen the WP201, with the integrated expansion tank? Yeah it's supposed to be direct-fit to the motor, but I always wondered if the pump outlets could be threaded to take fittings! If you do put a different overflow tank on, let me know where you put it! I put my MSD box where the stock overflow tank went, and picked up a coolant tank from JC Whitney- can't find a damn place for it that I like. Right now it's tied up to the windshield washer reservoir with safety wire, and looks like crap. The only place I could think of putting it was right next to the radiator, by the radiator cap on the driver's side. But then I wondered if it would somehow block airflow thru the radiator- yah it would just block the upper corner, and the fan wouldn't be blocked- but I wasn't sure, and didn't want to drill the rad support if I wasn't sure. I think I'll have to search a bunch of restoration catalogs to try and find a "GM repro" coolant tank I like, because my JC Whitney one just screams "cheap". I could've done the same design with a milk bottle. Here's a link to it- http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...X/appId-385849

 

Yes I've seen that 201 pump and it is nice to have the resevoir intergrated. I am really debating going an expensive route with this and doing the entire BeCool package with the dual fans and billet expansion tank- Its expensive, but very nice and comes with all mounting hardware and brackets. Their dual fans a so streamline it will give even more room between the motor and radiator (I could probably stand in there seated ontop of the radiator/front support to work on this motor- with the TPI style dual snorkel off of course)

I just got back from picking up the timing cover. Richard did a great job welding the fittings into that cast aluminum and getting it sealed properly. He really layed in a good thick weld bead around the fittings- wasn't sure he could with the thin fittings and the pot casting- but he did.

I then went over and talked to DynoDon (and a few other locals there) about removing that crappy heater control valve entirely (the plastic piece of....) They assured me that with running the BeCool rad and lowering the operating temps that the full time routing into the heater core would be fine for the A/C to still function great. Many of them have done this already on the V8 cars that came with the heater valve. SO this frees up alot of crappy plumbing that would not be reliable if I had to plumb onto the plastic valve.

I plan to come off the intake port (TBbypass fitting) and route directly back to the firewall heater core inlet. Then the heater core outlet will plumb directly back to the outlet side return bung that I will have welded into the radiator side chamber just above the outlet radiator feed to the remote waterpump. That way the water will be just a tad warmer going into the pump and engine and not run too cool. I will get a good constant circulation that wayso not to strain the electric pump through the sometimes blocked thermostat return hose.

Tom, My only concern about the heater core is they never last an eternity. They eventually go bad and mine is original. Its the only part of the cooling system that will be prone for failure in the future- but the wife needs heat in the car in January and Feb here in Calif. so I have to leave it. (It is a daily driver) I might try and route provisions to quickly bypass it in the event I were to ever get stranded on the side of the road form it ever bursting. I know Karl just had this happen last year in his Firebird.

Lastly, I always put these projects posted here for corrective criticism. It helps me come to better results with everyones imput.

Dean

Picture shown an Earls adapter fitting #981612ERL (12AN-3/4"NPT) TIg weldded into place on each port.

 

I mentioned above that I plan to weld another bung to the V8 BeCool rad for the heater hose return. There is an extra bung there on it now(3/8"npt bung) that I am using for something else I need to point out. The one I will have welded on extra will be a 1/2"NPT female bung for the 10AN heater return line to the radiator

The existing 3/8" female bung will be used by a 6AN return line from the block itself. On the timing covers, there is a small port return hole coming from internal in the engine block back to the inlet feed of the timing cover. The return port is to help with circlular flow to the stock WP to help avoid cavitation also along with the other heater core return hose.

I will just tap the block hole for a 1/4"NPT fitting and attach the 6AN line back to the radiator (same side as the outlet to the waterpump) The only line that will return and flow through the actual radiator cores is the standard upper radiator hose from the thermostat.

Here is that smal port hole. You'll notice in the lower picture above that I cut off the intake port section of the timing cover leaving this return portin the engine block exposed.