Hi Guys,

Ok so I’ve got round to changing the old muffler and tail pipes that have been on the bird since I got it and replaced it with a brand new box and chrome tail ends. You know how they say one job leads to another yeah? Well while cleaning the heat shield that protects the fuel tank from the muffler I noticed a micro pinhead of a hole in the fuel tank that is letting fuel escape. It’s not a bad one, it only covers a small area and must drip say once a day. But I set out to replace anything and everything that I feel not to be 100% with new and as the tank is starting to corrode along the bottom anyway I’m going to change it with a new one.
It’s also an excuse to do some painting under there while everything is out e.g. Track bar and brace, stabilizer bar, rear springs etc. I’m planning to do the work via the Haynes book, and I was wondering if anyone has any hints and tips on the cars they have worked on, and any problems that I may encounter on my way.
Also I’m wondering as my car has sat out the harsh English winter in dry dock (The Garage) since last October, will I still need to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. My battery’s been out of the car since then and I really don’t want to have to start the car just to pull the fuel fuse to de-pressurize the system.
Also and this is probably a stupid question, but should I also consider changing the fuel pump as well?
I’m not sure at all how long these pumps last or how reliable they are. The pump that’s in there is working fine at the moment. Any help would be as ever, appreciated.

Speed.

 

Funny, I just read about a 1966 Corvette in England & the harshness of the elements on that car.
Yeah suggestions
DO replace the pump & YOUR FUEL SOCK, too.
NEXT the desired gas tank is your year (I think 1989-90 to 92) as it has better baffling internally to keep fuel by the pump under extreme cornering (as in learned during the IROC/USA series-modification made to all F Body tanks of those years-earlier gas tanks do not have those extra baffles).
Painting those arms & such back there
JUNK THEM get new ones made of HD thickwall tubing with poly bushed ends on them.
Why?
Elements have taken their toll on them too (rust!).
Only other detail to check is the trunk well area for rust thru due to rain water leakage into that area & sitting there.
Corvette frames rusted real well in England. I can imagine what has happend to the stuff you plan on taking off the Firebird. As in look what has happened to the gas tank!
Battery tray? Take off, & have welded on a "new plate" to hold battery as that now may also be history. My SoCal battery tray has been harmed by battery acid. But you in England, I can also imagine....
Removal of tank is BEST DONE with car up in air, to lower axle low enough to wiggle out tank. Watch out for gas neck into gas cap area on side of car. When reinstalling tank, get that part in there first, then wiggle & jiggle & it's done!
IF can obtain use all AC Delco parts in fuel pump area. Get all the parts & have it done once. Rest of hoses & such back there USUALLY are fine.

 

There was a post about 2-3 months back about installing a 4th gen plastic tank in a 3rd gen. It can be done, but not sure what all was involved.

Then it wont rust again

 

Can I assume that the better-baffled fuel tank will fit in earlier year cars?

 

you know what happens when you assume..........

and it (newer tank) should.

 

Thanks for the info KED85 & DALE

It’s really funny, my car has little corrosion anywhere on the bodywork i.e. round the tank itself, boot area etc that’s why I want to get it painted up now as a precaution. Your right the weather here really is a big problem for cars, it seems like when their not salting the roads because of ice, it’s either raining or damp and wet, or both! As I’ve said in my earlier posts the car hasn’t been wet underneath (Never goes out in rain or winter) since I bought it over two years ago and my garage is heated so I’m lucky in the fact that rust isn’t a major problem. I also suspect the previous owners didn’t use the car much (if at all) during the winter too which is just as well as the car has no (European/Japanese style) rust proofing, you know the thick rubbery type like my Mazda has.
Anyway the only parts that look quite nasty are the stabilizer bar and differential cover and axle housing these having the flaky type of surface rust on them. The track bar is fine, I wiped it off tonight to reveal the black paint underneath all the muck so I’m happy with that. I’m not happy with the fixed pipes (4) though that come from the tank and connect to the rubber hoses on the bulkhead, these really are shot and will have to replace with the tank. More job’s leading to other ones again!
I just know for a fact that I’m going to have trouble here with this, first problems trying to find where to put 50 liters of fuel that’s currently in it! And no it can’t go in the Mazda because that’s in storage too and my van runs on diesel!
Anyway, minor things. I’m planing on doing the job between now and April before the car comes out of it’s winter hibernation so I’ll keep all updated.

Thanks again for the help. Speed.

 

Ahhh, but that's why I said "Can I assume...?"

 

from the readings on the 4th gen tank swap thread. They dont have baffles in them. What they have is some sort of "cup" at the bottom of the pump, and that will hold enough around a cornor so that the car wont stall out.

Tank itself was only like 1lb lighter. But search on it, and you may get the answers.

May car from the south USA (little to no snow, and no salting when they do) had the scale on the rear axle cover. Should beable to find a nice chrome one to replace it cheaply (got mine of e-bay). The rear stabalizer bar, you may beable to have sandblasted, inspected for heavy rust/pits, then powder coated.

 

I've never had a problem with stalling, but the stupid fuel gauge is practically useless thanks to having little/no baffling around the fuel level sender.

 

A plastic tank let alone the cornering help would be nice.

Man does it suck to take a hard down hill, left hand turn with around 1/4 of a tank.

Any dig up a pic of the plastic 4th gen tank???

 

Not worth the headache to try and fit the 4th gen tanks.

I'll try and dig up the fact post on them awhile back. If I recall, they are not any lighter weight (by any worthwhile margin) and they are hard to retrofit the 3rd gen sending unit to it.

I just keep mine at 1/2 tank to revent cavitation while cornering.

 

Thats not easy to do with crazy gas prices. Gotta pic the right days around here. Which can mean a 20-30 cent GL difference.

 

Where was the pinhole? The '91's had a recall on the gas tank filler neck; the welds between the fill neck and tank were bad, and you could get pinhole leaks.

Otherwise I'd just use an epoxy kit to fix the pinhole!

Use http://www.por15.com on your undercarriage parts and you'll be very happy with the results! Their $20 super starter kit was enough to do my rear axle and rear anti-sway bar.