Brake me

Chime in folks

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...34#post2212134

 

I assume your rotors now are too thin....
S-10 Blazer rotors are the same as F Body.
I assume you going racing?

Stock works well, too.

Spend the money saved on new fresh rebuilt calipers and brake mounting hardware. AND NEW HOSES front & rear. Use DOT 4 SYNTHETIC BRAKE fluid (higher boiling point!) VALVOLINE brand (pennies more expenisve than DOT 3 stuff)
Recently changed my front pads DUE TO DAMN CALIPER STUCK COCKED SIDEWAYS, rivets went into my slotted rotors, of course cocked sideways the side not at sensor on back pads!
OF COURSE the rivets struck the BACK SIDE NOT SEEN by quick visual inspection....
Fresh springs on back drum brakes, too works well in your favor.
Yeah, Dean I am bummed.
I await moments in life to install the rear discs.
Rebuild the stock set up to day one specs & you'll be most pleased, too.

 

Car came with all new brake parts 5-6 years ago.

Put new calipers hoses n pads on it 2 years ago.

I know the left one is bent or wavy. It got smoking red hot and locked a few times when old calipers locked from bad hoses. Had to remove my brake pads to drive home. [Used E brake.]

Rotors look like crap through the rim. two deep valleys down the center line of both, that is rusty. Where the brake pads arnt touching anymore.

Got a new set of shoes and a hardware kit for the rear.
Didn't use it two years ago. Stuff was still nice.
its around here somewhere.

I just want nice new rotors. The slotted rotors I put on my bike made braking a dream. But they are true slots. Cut clean though.

Got good lifetime pads to exchange. That are now singing form wear tabs rubbing.

Need brakes.

 

I just want good brakes so I don't hit people who can't drive.

Racing would only be an after thought as id race on 3 tires and 1 rim, with nothing but park and drive to stop n go. if I had to.
While driving backwards, drinking a Pepsi.

Its nice when you can stop how and when you want.

 

I'd stick with stock stuff
THEN FIND A VERY GOOD BRAKE SHOP WHOM YA TRUST to "check" your work.
I recently went thru all I mentioned.
My car stops so great (even with the slotted rotors & the gouges on back side, not yet turned and these ceramic front pads not broken in at their required 1,000 miles), I am stunned.
On back drums, I sanded by hand, the drums.
Stick on better (stock style) rotors than current one in thier condition.
Or again find brake shop that you trust AFTER YOU DO ALL "work" to "inspect & do final adjustments", including bleeding system.
Fresh fluid does wonders for brakes.
Valvoline stuff I mentioned is wonderful. AND very cost effective.
Keep at it.
I really thought I had screwy brakes, too, until I stuck in the new front pads & new rear drum shoes/springs.
Car now stops on a dime & I ain't racing to say that point. Regular driving.
I may have not stated if I replaced with new master cylinder. I seriously forget if I have. I do know I replaced my plastic fluid housing part on MC. But new hoses (fronts & one rear), new rear wheel cylinders & new pads & such really work just fine. Like I said, next step for me is fresh front rebuilt calipers.

 

I spent 400 on new slotted rotors, calipers, pads wheel bearings and hoses.

 

As it is......

I'm robing Peter to pay Paul. Borrowing from Steve to pay Jim and Ill just avoid Hank for a month or two.

 

Karl, Sh*t happens, at least the price was right for them

But yes, after my experiences with 10.5" rotors, I would stick with either stock A/C delco rotors or go to the Stillen drilled rotors 9they are good quality when newer. Mine were finally tweaking on me every 3 months due to age and being turned so much to min tolerances + the heat I put into them drivng them on a road course a few times.

You money is best spent on Stillen MetalMatrix performance pads!
EBC, Hawks, and Performance Friction (worst by far) do not hold a candle to Stillen pads. You will 100% that me later for the recommendation- I gaurantee it! Trust me, I have tried them all, and my car is more than capable of testing each of them for comparison. They also work cold, And I NEVER experienced brake fade in my V6 with Stillen pads, I did with all others. I ran at least 4 sets of Stillen pads on the Camaro over time.

 

Hey Dean,
"Right price" never replaces a friend!
I'm just so mad at myself for the goof, as I knew I heard something &.....
I just can't wait to get a few more things settled so I can go play again (as in having two rides! to make three rides....)
PS Dean does do extreme testing, I can vouch for that!

 

So these rotors below for the S10 will fit my car???

PART # BR55500

APPLICATIONS:

1982-1997 GMC SONOMA 4X4

1982-1997 GMC JIMMY 4X4

1982-1997 CHEVY S10 & T10 4X4

1982-1997 CHEVY S10 BLAZER 4X4

 

OK your right, I cross check autozone for 2wd n 4wd S10 and it and my car have the same part number for rotors.

Ill get me some S10 rotors then.
I can get em both for $47 shipped online.

I can also assume, S10 brake pads are the same also??? What about the other brake parts n lines. Just curious.

 

BE AS SURPRISED AS I WAS!!!!
I got my information from Hollandard wrecking yard book.
Got the part.
TWO WHEEL DRIVE!!!!S-10 BLAZER
YEP SAME Rotor!!!!!
So is "caliper & pads & rear drums & rear drum shoes" BUT always double check!! Hoses are different due to length!
MANY S-10 parts are same for F Body of that vintage! NOT ALL BUT MANY are.
Glad I could toss ya a good clue!!!!
Hope it all works better.
Working brakes are always the BEST auto insurance you can purchase!
Find a good brake shop to have them double check/wrap up your work, it's cheap insurance, too.
Those F Body rear brake wheel cylinders are a true b!tch to install. I paid someone to do it for me. They have a slide on circle clip that is next to impossible to remove. Where as S-10 rear wheel brake cylinders are bolt ons. Go figure....

 

Ill save $28.50 just by saying I have an 86 S10
instead of an 86 Firebird.

Brake pads are the same way on Ebay.
The name Firebird adds $20 to the price instantly.

 

Double check all stuff with another source before ya get it for proper fitment.
I do know the rotors interchange.
I seriously do not doubt also brake pads.
Double check, I don't want an angry response saying I did goof on brake pads!
I know the rotors interchange, I was surprised on that fact as I did it to my S-10 Blazer!
Pads I buy brand new at the store and never asked outta curosity.
I didn't screw up my F Body rotors till just other day & weeks...damn.....

 

Ked is 100% correct. The rotors And pads are the same. Pads "D" code are D154's for both the S10 and the 3rd gen non-perf package front brakes.

 

Thanks for supportive answer for helping out.
I do know the drum shoes F Body & Blazer are the same. I just proved that to myself other day when I returned the F Body brake shoes & saw I could use the brake part warranty card I have for the Blazer on the F Body shoes, cause they same part number!

 

I awalys save my old parts and let a few months go buy and return them under warranty and get a new part just to have on hand.

 

Been talking to redraif about her drilled and slotted rotors. She has driven on the for a few years. Done some racing and happy with them. Also said they are made in Canada. Not Twain.


And you know it s the same BS.


1982 - 1997 PONTIAC FIREBIRD Rotor Each ZX076937P $67.95

1983 - 1997 CHEVROLET S10 Pickup Each ZX471575N $49.95

$20 cheaper if you say is an S10, even though they use the same parts.

Gonna hafta use this S10 discount more often.

 

I think we need to establish a list of all the other cars that share the same parts. Could save us as a group $1000s a year.

 

On my mashed rotor with slots & such box says "Chatsworth, CA" but product says china.
My Corvette rotors are from China, too.
No biggie as long as car stops.
LUCKILY my groved rotor was able to come back to life and it's now working well again.
Yeah again GM LOVES TO CROSS PLATFORM MANY PARTS!
Saves them money.
Like 1969 single piston caliper/rotor for the Camaro is the same caliper/rotor as a 1970-71, etc.
BUT the spindle is the difference between 1st Gen Fbody & sec. gen F Body.
Ya learn the "answers" by sometimes begging the answer from the Hollander books at a yard.

 

In general........

I prefer products I buy be made by someone making a decent living wage. Not the typical "Asian" wage of 50cents a week.

Course you can't always do that...........

 

Politics now
Isolation played a MAJOR ROLE in the start of the World War Two.
Beyond ya, ya just can't control from where parts come from.
I once bought an AC Delco ICM
Even in an AC Delco box
From AC Delco dealer.
CAST INTO THE BODY OF THE ICM IS
"Made in China".

I give up on some things as again I just can't control from where it is made.
PS My Wife is Asian, too and again even with my heart I couldn't control from where things come from! Ask me how many American girls prior to her, tho!.....
In all seriousness, Isolation of America played a MAJOR role in The World War Two. Truth.

 

Any cross reference rotors for the 84 disk brake REAR? May make it easier for me the get the slotted and drilled rear rotors for my 84 rearend!

 

BACK THEN
THINK any GM ride w/4 wheel discs.
VERY NARROW SELECTION
Corvette
Luxury rides (Caddy-Toronado-Riverea)
NOT saying your application unique, but that's GM thinking.

 

If I say vette the price would prob got up from f-body prices $20

 

My 95 Blazer 4x4 uses the same lifetime warranty pads & shoes that my Firebird does.

FREE pads & shoes for both vehicles as long as I own them