Can anyone recommend me good struts, shocks and brakes. I just want a smooth ride along the road

The standard Tokico "blues" for shocks and struts for a smooth but stable ride. They have better rebound force than the KYB's yet have a low compression for smoothness.

The absolutely best brake pad you can buy for everyday street use are Stillen Metalmatrix pads. Check Stillen.com

I have run these brake pads on every vehicle I own for years and years now. If I could get them on the Camaro with the Wilwood calipers I would buy them in a heartbeat over th EBC's I have now. Don't buy PFC, they are the scariest pad I have ever driven on. There is absolutely no intital bite, you have to lay on them with decent pressure to get them to respond.

I'd really hope so since it costs double what generic replacement pads do.

And your front end + paint + generic brake pads will cost about 100 times what the Stillen pads would when you don't stop one full car lenghth shorter in a panic stop. That car length is the matter of saving you butt or getting into an accident. I don't skimp on tires or brake pads.

How do I know if my camaro has a positive differential in the rear?
I would love to add disc brakes, I hate drum brakes, hard to replace

here is a link to my site that has info on the disc brake swap I did!

I went for what I knew I could get a 3.73 rear. That was an 84 disc brake rear. I will eventually upgrade to a posi. The posis in the older rearends are crap. Don't even bother! You are better off converting it later! Best bet if you are not set on a 3.73 is a 89 and newer rearend!

Mines is a 90, but I dont know if I have a posi or not. Only one tire spins when I peel off on the road, skid mark that is.

rebel your car has a open rear with 3.23's

Jack the rear of the car up, put it in neutral and spin the tire on one side forward.

If the other rear tire is also spinning forward then it is a posi or locking type rearend (and is not stock on your car)

If the other side spins backwards (opposite direction of the side you are rotating) then it is an open diff.

Even finding a factory Posi unit in a junkyard is a risky move. Chances are it too will need rebuilding with a new posi unit. Best to buy an new one and have it installed. Only thing it will help you with is wet traction and cornering. Its not going to make your car feel one bit faster and a waste of money if you plan to sell the car in the next 5 years unless ice and snow is an issue.

If you do decideto get one out of a yard, try and get an '89 or newer with PBR aluminum rear brakes and not the early style iron caliper rear disc that measure 10.5" rotor diameter. The pbr measure 11.65"

Or you can build one to this extreme for a V6 that easily handle 300hp for years of abuse with Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 12.2" 2pc rotors, Moser drilled axles, Auburn Roadrace version posi, 3.23 road gears, and an aluminum diff cover with bearing preloads for added support for an extended lifespan.

Does this mean i have to replace my 3.23 posi, if I want to install disc brakes.

No, The posi and gears remain in tack. You need to unbolt and pull the pin, press each axle inward at a time pulling the c-clips, then pull out axles so you can bolt on the disc brakebacking plates to the axle flanges.

Here's a pic on the retainer bolt, pin, and c-clip(s) removal

Remove c-clips by pressing inward one axle at a time, then pullaxle out.

That seems alot of work, where can I get Millmood brake rotors and pads at?

And all that's if the damn pinion lock bolt doesn't snap on ya.

For a smooth ride, just get stock replacement shocks and struts.

Thought mine was never coming out. it never snaped, but teh head was rounding off! Someone had been in there before us! The rear had a leaking axle seal. The idiot had about stipped the head completely. Joe worked on it for a while. We gave up and put it off for about 3 months while Joe looked for a new place. Then we cracked it out of storage & the blasted bolt came out for us. Guess the tons of PB blaster finally loosened things up! Then we put in a new bolt after the repair

In your case, would Monroe struts and shocks do the job.