well i was on the verge of running a first 9 flat run last night at jax raceways, when the clutch slave cylinder over-extended and stuck out. i was running a firebird formula(WS6)(said something about a limited edition) i had him beat to both the 60 ft and 330ft mark. when i went to shift to second, the clutch froze on the floor, and the car would only rev. i coasted to the end of the track where i drove the car off the pavement, got it in gear, grabbed my slip, and attempted to limp the car home. i got aobut 1/4 mile from the track when the damn thing would just not run on it's own power. to say the least i was pissed. i ran a 2.25 60 ft and a 2.653 330ft the clutch went out right after the 330ft mark, and i still managed a 54.36 trap speed.

yes alan i finally got the car to hook better. i took the spring clamps out and lowered the press down to 16# that was enough to still get some wheelspin on the line from dropping the clutch at 4,200 but not burnout off the line. anything lower than 3,500 and the engine bogs coming off the line.

 

cool. good deal!

 

thank you alan for your advise to get the car to hook up. i started with 20# in both rears, and every 2 runs i dropped 2# til it started catching traction. i also learned from one of the old guys how to get both wheels to dig when coming off the line. he told me to almost prestage, back up about a foot, then stage. same thing with my burnouts, and sure enough, both would spin at the same time give or take a turn of the drive tire, but none the less they were both spinning.

dean, i have always delt with posi cars on the track so i didn't know that about the limited slip cars.

 

What mods do u have installed right now?

 

right now about the same thing that you do from the looks of it, but i deleted the air pulley, i have the dual snorkel intake, a exhaust leak from both side manifolds, i deleted the coolant lines to the TB, a decent tach, underdrive pulley, and a few other minor things that i do to all my engines. nothing major right now though.

on the 15th, i will be putting a set of long tube headers on, a centerforce dual friction clutch and TO bearing, new injectors(17#) new melling high flow oil pump, new timing chain, new cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, springs and valve spring retainers, oil cooler, and a needed paint job.

 

nice i cant wait to see your times with that whole new valvetrain setup your gonna get.

what does your car run in the quarter??

 

i dunno, i am assuming around 16.0 maybe as low as mid 15's. i am hoping to get to gainesville one of theese weekends to find out!

with the new valvetrain i should be running almost 225horse and about 230 ft# tq when i am done i should be running almost 275horse and 260 torque

 

Ok....am I the only one seeing through the miscalculations here??? You ran a 2.25 60ft time....then a 2.653 330??? you went 270 ft. in .403 seconds??? that's a speed of approximately 670 ft. per second. Considering NO acceleration that's a 1.9 second 1/4 mile time !!! . I ran a 6.3 330' mark on my 14.8 run in my truck on nitrous. And there is no way you are running 9's after running CONSISTANT 10.6's. Your car does not magically gain more than half a second in the 1/8th mile out of no where. Even if there was bad driving or bad traction your mph would reflect what ET you are capable of. I'm sorry man, I don't care how close you were to the firebird (probably a bad driver on the launch or just taking it easy on the launch as I do the same as you and am able to keep up with many of 13-14 second cars in the first 330' then they blow by me in my low 16 second dodge ram) You would not have kept up with him.

 

look i am just telling you what the slips said, it sounded kinda fishy to me, but that is what they said, and i am not gonna dispute the computers on this one as they are the most accurate way of doing it. if you are going 60 mph, how fast do you cover 330', pretty damn fast! if i am sitting on the line for a full second, and spinning, that does make a difference. he wouldn't have just pulled past me like you think. i was still in first gear, second is my power gear for acceleration. i am not saying that the slips were wrong in their calculation, i am just saying i know that i would have run a 9 second 1/8th if the clutch wouldn't have blown. what is gonna be faster? a car that spins on the line, or a car that leaves the line like a rocket? a car that doesn't spin if they launch correctly. the car didn't spin, and it did launch correctly.

 

All I'm trying to say is that you CAN NOT say that you are running a 9 second 1/8th by they way the first 330' felt. That's ridiculous and if you tried to tell that story to any professional dragster they'd probably laugh at you. If you were running consistant 10.6's you ARE NOT in the 9's. I know what it takes to go that fast and it's a lot more than a couple of bolt ons and new spark plug wires that you have. You were not going to be .3 of a second behind a 300+ hp firebird in you 135hp v6 that is just common sense. I've seen alan's car....i've helped worked on doward's....I know what it takes to get them to move. And yes a car that takes off like a "rocket" will be "faster". But, even if you did slip off the line your MPH would reflect what ET you are capable of. I can gurantee you you are not in the 9's, you don't even have a slip to back it up.....just a 330' mark that is not accurate and a guess cause you kept up with a formula firebird.

 

actually i had the slip but i couldn't find it this morning or last night, i guess the couch monster ate something else that i wanted to keep. i know the car is not a 9 second car, yet! i was simply stating that if the clutch wouldn't have fragged, i would have broke into the 9's for the first time. for my car, that is something for what i have done to it. when i started with the car i could barely break 11's now i regularly break 10.5, closer to 10.2 on a good night, but i still was getting alot of wheelspin on the line, and the car not going anywhere while the tires were spinning, now the car is (when it is goining on it's own power) launching right, giving me the possibility of getting to the 9's consistantly within the next couple of weeks. all cars will run consistant numbers to a point, and when things are right, they will spike a lil, that run was a spike, and i know that, i did run a little different on that run as to where i was shifting and i was shifting at almost 6 rather than 5,400 like i was doing the rest of the night. alan knows that and understands that, that is why he didn't dispute it, even with the car loosing the clutch at 330ft, i still managed a 54 mph trap speed. that was almost what i normally run at 64 without something breaking. get what i am saying? i wasn't going off how the car felt, cause it really felt kinda shi**Y on that run. please quit reading something that is not here. i am not saying that a car that runs mid 10's is just gonna up and run 9's just cause of a traction issue, i am saying that that would have been the fastest run yet with the car. i have run that firebird before and he really didn't fly past me, he slowly and i mean slowly pulled away til i hit third, then he pulled on me hard. actually the car is running a little more than 135 horse. it is more likely 150 or 160 cause the exhaust is a little bigger than stock, and there is no cat. i just gave a short list, not a full drawn out list, as i keep tuning that i do to the car under wraps. yea i will give out a parts list, but not well i got this set at this setting, and i tweaked this out this much and i am running this air filter, and i tweaked the plugs to run this hot or this much gap. understand now!

 

to run in the 9s, you've got another 7 or so mph to pick up...not an easy task. yes, a good lauch might net you an 'extra' tenth or two but on a 2.2X 60', i don't see it running in the 9s. especially on a "stock" motor. you might see an extra 10 or 11 mph at the top end of the 1/4 mile; that it. once you get moving....it gets harder and harder to pick up more speed.

 

Good one, Beej! I didn't even catch that... rofl... yeah, no way in the world to run a 2.653 330', with a 2.25 60' time...

Computer probably glitched as it was taking the times .

I'm hoping to be Track Ready again here in a week or so... let me know when you hit up Gainesville Raceway, I'll meet ya up there.

 

doward, i assume you were talking to me about gainesville, i have never been there but a buddy of mine who drives a turbo 350Z has been there a few times and i want to go with him, so just let me know and give me enough time to get the new clutch in, and the new exhaust hooked up and working without any leaks.

alan the new 3.73 rear should be in in 2 weeks along with the posi unit!, that should help me get those extra mph's that i need to consistantly run 9's along with the headers and a better clutch( 2 plate kevlar setup)

 

i just looked at my 14.97 timeslip and my 330' was 6.15. ...just FYI.

 

i also ran a 2.25 60' and my 330' was 6.65. and i have a bigger engine and am more modded than yours is, currently. i was spinning like you wouldnt believe. i have videos of it, you can see me spinning and then finally hook up. if i could have hooked up i would have easily been into the high 15s, instead of a 16.1. i cant see how you would run that fast in that distance. find your timeslip and post it, i can post mine if youd like me to. not being a jerk, just extremely hard to believe w/ your setup compared to everyone else out there.

 

Read your first statement in your first post...you said you were on the verge of your first 9 flat....not breaking into the 9's as you now say, big difference.
ok...here's some stuff that you have said in this other thread....https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=308560
If 9's at any time why all the 10.6's? That's like saying my truck is capable of 12's.....all I need is a twin turbo'ed 408 under the hood
In this thread you claim a 9.1.....not "breaking into the 9's"
Ok...where to begin? One....you are not within 10% of HP of alan's car...i bet you haven't even been to a dyno since you claim 150-160 hp in this thread and 190 in the other thread. Either way you are not even at 150 to the wheels with exhaust and intake....you're maybe up to stock flywheels numbers. Two.....what numbers are proving you only need hp 5% less than him?? Desktop dyno numbers??? Or have you tried this in the real world? And Three....you have the same basic setup as alan??? I think not, and if so then you need to stop claiming you are stock like you also did in that thread. You're aren't running a full exhaust and that high of compression that he is.....i will bet on that.
I understand now what you are claiming....but it WAS NOT what you were claiming before and in the other thread. What I'm trying to tell you is DO NOT get your hopes up. That is NOT a 9 second or mid to low 15 second car. That would mean out of all the "basically stock" cars here you are like the fastest by .5-1 (and that's being generous on the definition of stock) full second. I'm not trying to be an a$$hole about this...but you are making some far fetched claims with no proof....and i don't think you are doing it on purpose. I think you are just hoping way too much out of your car. And doward was talking to me about gainesville cause I talked to about him going again the other night and what he had to do to get ready. But you are more than welcome to come and I can show you what a mid 15 second car is or a 14 second truck is.....your choice

 

what ever dude, i aint trying to argue with any of you, i wish that i could find the d**n thing to post it, but before i went to bed that night, i put them on the couch, when i woke up, they were gone. i think the cat did the ole, steal and hide, but i haven't found them yet. he!! for all i know, my roommates could have figured that i didn't want them and threw some of them away. that would not have been a first. i don't really have high hopes for the car. as for setup, i was talking about suspension, not drivetrain on alan's car. now i told you that i broke the clutch on that run, so noone knows what i would have run, including myself. i know it would have been a new best in that car, and i am guessing from racing that year firebirds before and how i hang with them that it would have been about .3 slower than his run.

Now as for your truck, please don't try and show me what a fast car or truck is, cause i know poeple with a quite fast truck, and i have a very fast mustang. it is coming down soon, and when i get the body work done on it(where it is streetable again) you will see it at gainesville. i have never had a street legal car beat it. i am not trying to brag, but it is the truth. even before i got the car and it was dad's, he never had anyone beat him in it eithor on the street running redlights or on the track. keep in mind however that the car is getting tuned down to come down here so i can somewhat drive it if it rains on the way back from the track. no i don't have a truck or trailer down here to tow it back and forth, we always used dad's truck and my grandfather's trailer to tow it, and those are staying up in pennsylvania.


quit trying to pick me apart, and go work on your truck and get it faster, after all the name of the game is speed, right?

 

ya know i am realy tired of this, i didn't post this thread to have someone sit here and give me giref. i posted it to give poeple some hope and inspiration to get their cars a little quicker. i know i wasn't gonna run a 9 flat the run i fragged the clutch, prolly not even a 9.5, but a high 9, yes. how did i do this, easy, took a lil advise from alan and some of the other guys and a few at the track, better plugs, better wires, new coil, new dist. cap, k&n oil filter, k&n airfilters, new tps, 245/60/r15's rear and 225/60/15 front, gapped the plugs to about .038" removed the cat, 2 1/2 pipes, cheap a$$ muffler for a interum muffler, castrol gtx 10-30 oil, a underdrive crank pulley, air pump delete, throttlebody coolant bypass, about 15* advanced timing for better top end, 1/2 tank of gas( just enough gas over the rear tires to help with traction, but not enough to slow the car down. yes the car is about .2 slower with a full tank) cleaned out the engine with seafoam, regularly run a gallon of kero through the engine oil to remove any oil deposits(no it don't catch fire, and no it don't hurt the main bearings or anything else cause it runs for less than a minute with the kero in there) a good tach shifting at 5,800 and a few other little mods that i did to help the engine rev, and produce power.
i don't see how you guys don't realize theese cars will turn 9's fairly easily with the right stuff on them. i mean i can go and get a 93 acura integra and put 2,000 in it and it will run 9's in the 1/8th all day long. yea that car is about 400#'s lighter curb weight than my camaro stock, and they are still under 225 horse. that is a little 4 banger. so they make more aftermarket parts for them, so what. use some of that common sense knowhow and let's get some parts together for them. they do make race cams for theese engines, i got one on order. they make posi's for theese cars, just ask doward, or alan. they make intakes for theese cars too, poeple are just too blind to see over thier own noses to see that poeple like troy from trueleo are doing what they can with what they got, yet still trying to make the stuff affordable.
before you make decissions about weather a product is good or not, why not try it or listen to those who have tried it.
personally i am not gonna endorse a product that sucks. i want the best products out there just like everyone else. the difference is that i will give a product a chance to succeede before i judge that product unless it really sounds stupid like that tornado thing they were trying to sell on tv a few years back.
all i am saying is to lay off and quit bashing everyone until you know for sure. by the way i did make alot of changes to the car that affect the car's performance before i ran that last run that the clutch blew on.
i was there to tune, not run the same ole setup. unless you try something new, you will never reach the full potential of the car.

 

sorry but half that crap is useless for goin faster. like ya know the k/n oil filter and castrol give ya 10 hp........and why 225/60 and 245/60.....lookin for track on a run......run MY size....205/60 and 275/60 (not only does it hold perfect it looks sick) now iis that a stock dist or a nice mallory unilite?......how bout the wires? stock? 10.8 msd's?

to me he kinda sounds like he's daydreamin half this. like 2g's on a civic or what ever jap crap he was talkin.......now does that include neons and a big ugly tach on an auto for like 100hp? to pull off 9's on an import for 2 g's is either a 200 shot nos for 1 run or a bunch a ebay shoppin

 

Guys, guys, guys.... we all should just meet up at Gainesville, and see what they run

 

well I might....still ain't finished. might need a tranny. and need to change the 2.73 gears......

 

wires are accel 8.8's that i got a couple of weeks ago, and that is a mallory dist cap and rotor button. haven't gotten the blaster coil, but that is coming this pay.

i thought i specified that i was running the 1/8th and same with the integra.

doward, i already offered to go to the track with you and allan both, but i got no call from eithor of you. now the car is broke and prolly will be for a week or so. i got some more bolton's that i wanna put on since it is down for a little while.

yupitsdaddysbird, what you just did is exactly what i was talking about, i don't need any one to sit here and try to read more into my threads than what is there, i got the money, i just don't got the time right now to do everything for the final build.

i don't come to this site to deal with b.s i come here to pick up on things that i wouldn't think about normally with theese cars. i am not a chevy guy, i have always owned fords and one dodge. i give everything a chance and that is why i am doing the buildup on the camaro. it was cheap, and i needed a car at the time cause i couldn't afford to drive the mustang, so i bought it. now the little thing has grown on me and i wanna keep it for a while.
i am tired of the v-8 camaro thing, so i figured that i would build the v-6 up that came in the car. i wanted something different.

you know it is kinda funny, go to the track and ask a veteran racer if it matters what oil you use, and he is gonna laugh and say yea. the same thing with oil and air filters. ask them if the idle affects throttle response, and they are gonna tell you yea,
ask them about the heat range and gap size of the plugs and they are gonna look at you like you are stupid and laugh you away.

doward, let me know when you wanna meet at gainesville, and if i can get the car fixed by then, i will be there!
i know that i am gonna run 16's maybe 15's if i am lucky. my third sucks and fourth is worse yet.

 

all of those little things may get u a performance increase, but not much. all mods will give u a percentage increase. a veteran running a 400-500 hp beast will see more of a gain than a 130hp car from the same mod. people will give u crap cuz they think u r just talking crap. if u THINK ur car can run in the 9s thats cool. but unless u have the actual proof or someone else on here as a witness ur gonna hafta expect ppl to call BS. ur oil and oil filter will not give u more than maybe 2 hp if ur lucky. air filter maybe 5 if ur lucky. u havent really done anything to ur car to notice any significant gains. u may have succeeded in getting it back to stock flywheel power. prove everyone wrong and get dyno and track slips and show us. without that ur just pissing in the wind and expecting not to blow back at u.

 

i understand that but:
1 i aint got a scanner.
2 my roommates keep throwing the Da*n slips away before i can put them away,
3. the puter at the track glitches(latest thing that happened)
4. the damn car breaks down due to something in the drivetrain before i can get half way down the track(also latest thing that happened)

heck soon i am gonna be running the same if not faster than allan CAUSE things keep breaking and when they break, i got like 2-3 other bolton's that i got to put on other than what breaks.
i will take any horsepower that i can get every little thing helps.
that is why noone has been able to get to the 300 mark yet.

p.s i refuse to spend 175 and up for 3 dyno runs. i could put that to use somewhere else like that adjustable fuel pressure regulator, or a electric water pump. or something like that. if i could get like 3 done for 50$ then yea i would.

 

ok look I was not tring to soound like an *** BUT too man poeple are like that about power.....I mean how man punk run around sayin the cai on thier honda adds like 30hp? I mean I will say this my car has MAYBE 130 to 150 at a LOOOOONG shot (a/c delete, smog delete, heat delete, better plugs, mobile oil, open air cleaner, ho carb, breather in both covers, no pcv, custom exhaust with 305 muffler. got modual, coil, and edelbrock intake, and better wires comein in like the next month) and I will say my 1/8 till be between 10 and 11. cause I know she ain't much yet.

(so ya know about the name, I am dad, have 2 girls)

 

closer to around 10.7 for you from my experiences. i understand what you are saying, i just wish that poeple would quit assuming that i think a cai is gonna give you 30 horse. i know it is more like 5-6 horses. i have a cai from the factory on mine. so i don't really count that. actually 2,000 will get you alot for a honda product. it got my buddy dc sport headers, a cai, stage 4 clutch, ported and polished head, computer chipped, and a few other goodies that were good for around 50 horses(not joking). i saw the dyno results before and after. yes he did have a large tach, but taht was cause his factory one took the dive. we also stripped everything but the driver's seat and cockpit out of the car. (about 250#)

 

It'll be 2-3 weeks before I can get back to the track....

 

good, that will get me time to get the clutch in and the exhaust done. posi will come next and then the intake manifold will be installed with the 65mm ford throttlebody if it is here by that time!

 

if they run on saturdays...i'll see if i can meet yall up there, too. wednesdays won't work for me though.

 

ooooh this gonna be good, 4 guys in their early 20's going to the drag strip in similar looking cars.
i will warn you all right now, the engine will not be finished by that time. i should have the intake by that time, and the cam(hopefully. things popped up again this paycheck but this one is alot larger than what i normally get) the headers will be on, and the exhaust run by that time. maybe mid to low 15's if i am lucky. wait forget the posi, i can live without it for a while, cam will be there, but the stroker crank, conn rods, and high comp pistons won't be in.

 

well I should be up in like 6 weeks but soon as I an up I'm up for it. cause I wanna see what it'll do now. I've been down since august of 02 doin body work and sh*t re workin the 2.8 just wish I could've gotten my hands on the 3.1 crank. I mean other then bein 30 over the plants stock.....yes even cam. it sucks. hey it does have the ws6 susp urithane sway bar set heavy duty v8 rear springs. she's still basicly basic

 

haven't found anything except for anderson racing inc. and i been thinking about getting their 3.1 kit just cause it will be cheaper than getting them individually from other companies!

 

well there is that one company.......forget the name it was on here the other day. that does nothing but the 60v it sells a 2.8 stroked to the 3.4 for 1200 compared to goin to a parts store and buyin a 3.4 for 2500........bein I work in a shop I get it for like 2200 but it's still hella exspensive. I might get just the 3.1 crank for like 80. wish I could do like I did for my other car. I got a buick 3.8 in it (it's a cutlass) and I got the 4.1 crank for free.

oh and I need the bigger valve heads for both cars. firebird mainly. I mean it's only 100 for the pair but......with 2 kids it take a lil sometimes lol

 

just FYI...you can't make a 2.8 or 3.1 into a 3.1 reliably. the only difference between the 2.8/3.1 and 3.4 is the bore size...you cannot safely bore a 2.8 or 3.1 block to the bore of a 3.4. and...the stroke is the same on the 3.1s and 3.4s. but, yes, you will want the bigger valve heads!

 

Then why do they make a 3.4 stroker kit???

 

who makes a 3.4 stroker kit? if its a stroker crank...i want one!

 

http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gmv6ps1.html




This should work. This is the web page.

 

The kit for the 2.8-3.4 is a whole new short block....the other kit is just a stroker kit. And I really haven't been trying to argue with you about this 87.....you can ask doward, me and him are just alike. We like to argue for the sake of arguing.....and when someone is saying something that we don't believe is true we can't just sit here and do nothing, lol. And doward...a few weeks sounds perfect, I'll have my first oil change done on the tC and we can go watch her run a 15.5, lol.

 

Yep.. I try to stay out... usually can, until something REALLY bad is said.

You can't get the 3.4L 'stroker kit' as just a rotating assembly. Why? Because you can't bore the 2.8/3.1 far enough out to make a 3.4.

The '3.4L stroker shortblock' is nothing more than a 3.4L motor, freshened up on the bottom end.

 

ok ok call me stupid......I thought they had a kit too not just the short and long blocks. but 1200 for a new short block ain't bad. and if I'm right you can even order it with a cross drilled crank and stuff......or get the long block with full worked heads and phase 3 cam......they got all kindsa crap there. hell I'm almost willin to bet with a worked long block from there and all the stuff that all a y'all mostly have (exhaust, cai, ignition, ect.) ya could make at or over 300hp.

 

agree with doward and alan and ramtuftiger, if they make a 3.4 stroker crank, i want one! at .06 over with a 3.1/2.8 you have a 3.3. .06 over is a big big big chance to take. if something happens and the walls get scarred, you have to take it to a machine shop, have the sleeves cut out, and new ones put in, then bored and honed to proper size. that is alot of manhours and alot of $$$. i am taking the chance, cause i can do that stuff myself on the boat. i don't like to nor do i want to, but if i have to i will. on my machines, boaring let alone honing is a pain in the **** to say the least. .0005 on the sleeve size can scrap a block while you are cutting the old sleeve out. sneeze and the machine takes .001" get my point?

 

yeah. I mean I've been a mechanic for 4 years now... (went toschool and did oil for 3 before) dont get me wrong I can do anything I can do anything steering/suspension, brakes, and bolt ons. BUT I am the first to say when it comes to trannys and diffs I dont know how to rebuild and shim diffs. now rebuilding any motor I am still on the basics so..... other then changeing bearings and cams and rings I still need work and I am working on it. So yes call me stupid about amount of bore it needs to do this or that I am working on it.....I know 60 over is "max".....but I heard hard drag motors alot of times run 70?

 

i don't even suggest .05 over. you always want to leave some just incase material. on theese engines that is way too thin, at .07 your wall thickness would be like a piece of paper. the thinner that sleeve gets, the bigger chance that it will come out of there, and that is not good for any part in the engine including the cam. after you get a couple builds under your belt, you will be able to do it in your sleep! i haven't had any kind of school on engine work, i just have a heck of alot more mechanical reasoning than the average person, and a damn good teacher.
couple that with any moving parts, and well you got it whooped.

everyone has got to start somewhere, yours just happened to prolly be at the local jiffy lube
i won't even tell you where i started, but i will say this, it was literally pretty sh***y.

 

you were a septic pumper....lol. yeah I mean i know that a60 cut is getting thin. I am damn close to building my 350 for the car but I am gonna give the 2.8 at LEAST a year or 2, and play with it a lil. I mean I am thinkin of tradeing one of my blocks for heads and vac advance dist for the 2.8
see best part about where I work is I work with an exmachinist and next door is the tranny shop (i get good deals due to I send him at least a car a day) then like 3 or 4 doors down is a gm pro shop. guy built an 80 malabu that wheel stands and says it still aint fast enough.......and we go back and forth. and there's one other shop that does welding for us. BUT the best place in the lot is right in the middle and that is called the loony bin. almost the best bar in town.

so when it comes to learning between here and work, who needs books lol

 

no i worked at a dairy farm then at a crop farm. sounds like you got some good teachers around you. i dunno about your car, but i already got the old style distributor timing system along with the new style advance! sounds crazy but i swear to got, i got the electronic advance and i got the old rotation spring thingy type

 

...Where to start.... I can't rush in here bashing after being absent for almost 5 months...but I call IMAGINARY on the original post. My cammed 3.4 only went 10.02, that's with ALL the bolton goodies, and a converter. I ran a 9.4 on a 50 shot of gas, alll with 2.0-2.1 60 ft times. Oh BTW, Hi guys
(Oh yeah, and my auto 4 banger runs 9's all day long, no turbo, less than $300 in boltons, turns high 13's on the bottle though )

 

f- body, we'll see when me, doward, am91, and a few others get to the track in a couple of weeks. speaking of, now the base garrage is going to close for 3 weeks for some repairs to the asphult in their parking lot. when will it ever end with having problems getting this thing fixed(fried the battery by having my head up my butt last night.) hope i didn't do anything to the computer!
as i have stated before, and it has been proven, manual cars are faster due to the less power loss in the drivetrain. personally i don't think that you had something setup right, but i am sure that you will dispute that. anyway if the car is running 10.4's with ease, and i have almost no boltons in the car right now, don't you think that i can get 9's when the engine is completed. i think so. now if you can get the engine running at max torque for a extenede time(slightly slipping clutch cause it was going out), don't you think that the launches and speeds are gonna go up?

 

you can't have both dist. and I still don't believe the time.