Well...I put the car on ramps to take a look under the engine. I visually checked and used my hand to feel the pipes. I did not find any holes whatsoever and the bolts on both the exhaust manifold and the donut gaskets were tight and torqued down good. I did'nt start the car because I did'nt see anything underneath that looked bad. So now I believe it might be the intake that is leaking somewhere. From the sound of the leak it is coming from the back side. Anyone ever put gaskets on the intake manifold and if so, what are some tips for easy installation on doing it.

Ken

 

It's a pretty job. Just take your time and don't rush it. Use plastic bags and paper to help keep the bolts orginized. This will help a ton when it comes to put it all back together again.

As with any repair job as long as you don't rush your self you will be in good shape.

Also don't trust the parts store when they hand you the gasket kit and say that it has every gasket that is neded. They lie I tell you!!!!

I had to go back and purches a secound, and different gasket kit just to get 2 gaskets that were not included in the first kit. They toss a bunch of different gaskets into the kits but they try to cover so many diferent applications that the miss a few.

 

Go out and find a FelPro gasket kit, P/N MS 93020. It has EVERY gasket you need except for the distributor o-rings, which are about $6 extra. It even includes the RTV black used to seal off the ends of the intake.

BTW, if you had a leak in the intake, you would know because the engine would run like crap due to the vacuum leaks, or you would be leaking oil like mad.

You should try getting under the car with the engine running. My guess is that you actually have a donut leaking. If the donuts are not perfectly centered, then you WILL get a leak. Also, just because you tightened the flange nuts with a 3/8" ratchet doesn't mean the nuts are tight. Mine are still loose and I used a 1/2" breaker bar on them...

 

im pretty sure he wants to put on exhaust manifold gaskets only

 

From reading his other thread, I do believe he has an intake leak problem... If the intake gaskets don't do it, then he can go out and put some exhaust manifold gaskets on as well...

Ken, you will want to go out and get a can of PB Blaster for any fasteners on the exhaust system. Spray it once and let it sit for the night, and come back the following morning and spray it again, just before you go to work on it. The bolts on the manifolds, if you decide the manifolds need gaskets installed (they don't have any from the factory), WILL be a royal PITA to remove. Expect to break at least a couple of the bolts...

 

Thanks for all the replies guys. I was thinking about what the car is like while I'm driving it. It accelerates fine and there is no surging going on at all. It seems a little weak in performance too. That may be due to the leak and a possible clogged cat as well. I'll have a exhaust shop put on some new pipes anyways and see if they will put me on a donut gasket while they are at it for good measure. Like I said, the engine revs up fine and it does'nt skip at all when I move the throttle by hand. Its just when it idles its bad. I got a used EGR off Ebay for $28 and I'll hook it up when it gets here. I can feel pulsing air right where that triangular gasket is under the EGR. But I do know all the sound is coming from the passenger side no doubt.

Ken

 

That's your problem right there. There should be no gasket where the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold pipe joins with the manifold.

P.S. you need two donuts, one for each manifold, unless you have a four banger under the hood..

 

Noo...I mean there is a gasket where the base plate on the bottom of the EGR meets the pipe coming from the manifold. I have never taken the EGR pipe away from the manifold off before cause it looks like a pain to get to. What I mean by base plate is the plate that has the 3 increment sized holes in it and is attached to the pipe via 2 bolts. The gasket is kinda curved shaped like a horseshoe. The triangular gasket is between the EGR plungers and the triangle shaped metal piece that has the "sleeves" if you will that the torx screws go through. It looks like the gasket has got 3 holes in it for the plungers to sit on and let the little ends on the plungers to close the necessary holes during operation. Makes sense? I know it sounds confusing to me if I read this.

Ken

 

Ohh.. I didn't see what engine you had there. Anyways, if you can, remove the EGR valve and replace that gasket. While you are at it, clean out the three gas chambers in the underside of the valve. It's best to use a box-end wrench if you have one the right size...

And it's not all that hard to replace the other gasket I mentioned earlier. You just have to remove the rear brace for the alternator first so you can get at the second bolt.

:edit: If you use penetrating oil on the bolts and/or nuts of the exhaust system, expect to leave the hood open with the engine running for about ten minutes to let the oil burn off so you don't end up suffocating while driving (I'm assuming you have good working A/C and actually use it).