4600rpm in 5th (.76) gear, 3.42 rear end, 245/50/16s

Someone calculate that for me... I honestly do not want to know

I had some fun with an RSX-S from 85mph to an indicated 4600rpm via the ZT-2 datalogger - The needle was sitting against the odometer reset, so I'm assuming I surpassed my previous 121mph record I do NOT condone this, and I actually regret it.

THE GOOD NEWS:

It is confirmed. Our oil system is top notch, and as long as your clearances are good, no problems for extended high speed/high rpm running.

Our cooling systems are marginal, stock. I recommend getting a bigger radiator (looking into this)

Next on my list is an oil cooler, to help pull some of the load off the radiator, and a nice aluminum radiator, to have serious overkill

Also, the V6 MPFI fuel pumps suck over 220hp. Period.

Walbro 255 on the way.

FWD heads go fine on the RWD block. The LIM will also fit fine, no problems - the distributor DOES hit the '95 LIM I have, but the distributor hole IS uncovered! I think I might be able to grind enough clearance to just use the FWD fuel rail/LIM, and a custom upper + LS1 TB

The exhaust manifolds LINE up fine - the bolt holes are like 1/4" further out, though, vertically speaking. Can elongate the holes for it, but I'll be doing this with Pacesetter headers, instead of the cast iron garbage manifolds.

New pistons arrived. Pics after I take a damn shower!

 

Doward, If you just stayed into it a little longer- You needed 120 rpms more to get me and we both know you easily have the power.

you were at 135.36.

i have 3.23's and a final .70 and on one cool night on a long downhill grade I got the car up to 4100rpms in OD (took forever) but I believe I have the standing record for a 60*V6 at 138.7mph

4715 ties me, 4760 get you to the 140mph barrier.

Edit:Wait a minute, What size rear tire are you running? Do you have 245/50 16's
And further info, I can get to about 128-130mph fairly decently timewise because this is done in "Drive" to about 5400-5500 rpms. Its once I have to upshift into OD that I have to feather it not to kick back down- my built auto trans has much better holding % in OD though compared to a stock tranny, but I still can not floor it so that last 10 mph I did took forever and downhill to reach. And of course my suspension and tires had at least 20mph more to go stability wise, it was smmoth as silk at those speeds. It may have room to hit 180 safely but you just never know without myself ever tasking a thirdgen built like mine to that speed without areo lifting the car- but it felt great so far at 138

 

Wow Doward, you really went full speed ahead (pun intended) on this project huh? Awesome! (I've barely had a chance to come on the forums this summer... I've been working WAY too much this year. )

The FWD heads had clearance between the valves and RWD pistons? Or is that why you bought new pistons? Or were the new pistons just for all the boost you're throwing at the motor?

Summit has a slick radiator I was looking at, not sure if it's what you're after as far as "larger", but for $320: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...t=SUM%2D380455

Right now I have a junkyard rad in my car... same radiator since 1996 (when I totalled my car), and altho it doesn't leak, it's making me a little bit nervous as to its age. Plus the Summit one is all aluminum and looks very cool.

 

Just because I have some spare time today to play (I'm sick right now) I figured I'd run some fun statistics for everyone.

At 60mph, you are traveling the distance of a football feild in 3.41seconds (88 fps)

At 60 mph, it takes the average V6 3rdgen (with rear drum brakes) aprox 170 feet to stop based on tire quality and brake pad compound (Mine does 60-0 in 100ft)

At 138.7mph you would travel a football field's distance in 1.47 seconds (203 fps) It would take me about 1 1/2 footballs feild to stop in an emergency (aprox 450ft) I do not get brake fade nor hardly any weight transfer rear to front jacking the rear end and pushing the car forward.
It wouild take the average V6 about 2 1/2-3 fooball feild to stop from 138 mph based on brake fade (somewhere between 750-900 ft)

Food for thought if you ever try to attempt such a stunt.
Edit: And this does not factor reaction time taken before brakes are applied.

 

I have yet to take mine over 95. Thats what I got clocked at the first time I drove the 3.4 outta my neighborhood.

Car just doesnt seem to have the guts that high. Maybe it would if I let it run long enough.

 

Probably sounds terrible, but I do 95 with my wife and daughter in it cruising. Thats why I built it so it is safe and stops fast at those speeds. this car is safer at 95 than most passenger cars at 70. Note: I do not go 95mph in the lane next to someone else doing 70, I slow down to about 5-10mph faster then speed back up when past traffic and back to open road.

Jay, is it that it feel uneasly or vibrates, or you just don't have the roads to cruise like that? We have 4 and 5 lane hwys out here that you can find vacant stretches of road later at night and most are doing at least 80+ on average. I guess we all drive fast out here in So Calif compared to the rest of the country. I know everytime I go to Nevada or Arizona I am doing only 70 and still passing everyone like they are standing still.

 

PRECISELY why I was like 'WTF AM I DOING?!' The RSX wouldn't give up, tried to flyby me (well, he did get around me) and I went all testosterone-crazy, and had to 'prove' my ***** was bigger. 135mph? That was simply stupid of me. I outran him, and should have had enough there - but I was just imagining him going 'omg, my topend killed you!' so I laid back into it. 4638rpms was the highest it registered on the ZT-2, in 5th gear.

Yep, running 245/50/16 Kuhmo 711s

No problems with oil pressure (I glanced at the gauges, and that's when I went WTF AM I DOING when I saw that the speedo gauges was SOLIDLY against the odo reset), but my datalogs show the fuel pump simply can not keep up.

TomP, the FWD heads are approx 28cc (I WILL be cc'ing both the iron and aluminum heads, to finally settle this, too) and require larger dished pistons than even the 3.1 iron headed pistons are. The Iron heads are supposed to be approx 50cc.

Pics as soon as I find my stupid digital cam

Also, my slowing from that speed was a combo of 4th gear engine compression, and brakes

 

4638= 136.5mph Move'n baby. You were knocking on 140 no problem- its calling you. It ain't gonna happen in my car with the auto.

How much difference is there inbetween the lower fwd manifold and the middle rwd manifold, Is it the same port and bolt pattren there? Chances tell me no.

 

WAY different.

Biggest problem with building a LIM, is it has to seal the upper side of the valve covers. What a PITA. Going to see if I can clearance enough of the LIM (the runner walls are like 5/16" thick!) to allow the distributor to mount up...

New piston pics:

 

'nother

 

Anybody have any specific places they want pics of, with these Hi-Tech brand pistons? I think they are built by Mahle... the Hi-Tech and Hastings part numbers, are exactly the same as Mahle's....

 

They look wider in the pin fit. Do they accept the SBC small jounal rod of are they still the 60* rod? SBC pin width is a .937" (?) I believe offhand

 

These are off-the-shelf pistons from Hi-Tech Engine Components...

I'm measuring a .9045" wrist pin diameter

Another pic of the piston ring lands... look pretty beefy to me!

 

One, I almost never have to drive on the freeway, its all town roads where I go with this car.

Two, all our roads are ****. Seams, potholes, crowned bad, cracked and chunking apart.

Three. Drivers around here do not pay attention to their where abouts, or other things to them, switch lanes no looking, dont get out the fast lane when doing 10 under the speed limit, no turn signals, people always driving in the others oncoming traffic on double yellows. I'm serious, you have to be on your toes to drive around here!!

Four. Having wrong gears right now, the motor is wound tight just to do 80. I think I'm turning about 3600-4000 just to do 80.

235/60/15, 3.23, .76 final gear.

 

Actually with your combo you are doing 80mph @ 2537rpms in 5th (.76). Tire size is 26" tall so its a 13 inch radius whereas a 245/50-16 is 25.7" tall or a 12.85 radius. You have slightly taller speeds in each gear with the 15" rims as opposed to when you put the 16's on.

There is a calculator on this site on the home page under equations for everyone if anyone didn't know. It also shows your years car tranny ratios basedon engine size and auto vs stick.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...ulations.shtml

John, those are very beefy skirts. Some very HD pistons. What are the grams on them do you know? heck, I don't even know what the weight of the stock ones are either to be able to compare. I haven't devled into these motors that far yet. The day I really do finally build one though I will thoroughly document everything so the info is on this site.

 

1. Good job.
2. Dont even cry about 135, i've been 150+ around here, so long as you werent trying to do it with any sort of "traffic" around, no big deal.
3. As far as a radiator goes i'd check into a few other things in the area, such as the sealing of the area in front to make sure the air goes through the rad and not around it. IF you do need a bigger radiator after that, go for the larger V8 radiator, a replacement from the parts store is well under $200.

 

as far as i can tell all the radiators for manuals are the same "v8 and v6

and the radiator for autos are the same for v6 and v8

only differance is the autos radiators have a tranny oil cooler

i know this from working for Modine Radiators and part #s are the same for v8s and v6 cars

other way i know this is my firebird has a V8 radiator and my camaro has its stock radiator and the iroc has its stock radiator
all are identical only differance is the iroc has dual fans

 

And I know you are wrong, and spreading incorrect information.

Yes 90-92 V6 cars got the same radiator as MOST V8 cars (typically tbi or 5.0 tpi's) the core was about 1" thick, some others (mainly G92 cars) got a rad that was the same frontal area but about 1.25" thick. Please dont try to argue this, i've stripped more thirdgens than you have probably driven

 

so why then dose Modine "the company that MADE ALL FACTORY radiators for the f-bodys" ALL 5speed cars get the same model #
and all automatics get the same model # there was no differance in core size so you are wrong
so maybe you should rethink saying someone is wrong
when that person Worked at a Modine radiator warehouse

1991 CHEVROLET CAMARO RS V6 3.1 Liter FI

26 1/4 x 17 1/4 x 1 3/8; 1 Row; Plastic Tank Aluminum Core Factory part

Brass Tanks With Copper Brass Core; 26 3/8 x 17 x 1 5/8; 3 Row
aftermarket cheapy


1991 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28 V8 5.7 Liter FI

26 1/4 x 17 1/4 x 1 3/8; 1 Row; Plastic Tank Aluminum Core
factory

Brass Tanks With Copper Brass Core; 26 3/8 x 17 x 1 5/8; 3 Row

aftermarket


these are only for Automatics i dont feel i need to to show 4 types for all differant engine combos
the point is i am correct

 

I'll be weighing them, as soon as I can get a scale... I have to press the old piston out. I will eventually have the weight of these Hi-Tech pistons, the stock 2.8s, the stock 3.1s, and the FWD stock 3.1s

Also, a little FYI... these are NOT made by Mahle - they are cast pistons, built specifically FOR Hi-Tech Engine Components, at the foundry that Silv-O-Lite builds their pistons....

MINIMUM piston-to-wall clearance is .0016" for these pistons. That's nice and tight - I will be shooting for approx .002", as I'm turbocharged.... More info in the coming days

 

Good job, you are still wrong, just because the aftermarket replacement company decided to just sell everyone the larger core, doesnt mean jack other than they decided to save themselves, and customers money, by purchasing / supplying more quantity of one part to keep costs down. Like I said, you are still wrong, GM (yes thats right what the cars came with, not the aftermarket replacements) put two different core thickness radiators in thirdgens, whether you like it or not. John just remove your upper shroud, you'll quickly know which rad you have.

 

Look guys, all 2.8 3rd gens have the radiators with the hose inlet and outlet on the opposite sides of the V8 radiators.
The 3.1's used the same "standard " radiator as the V8 cars with the inlet on the drivers and the bottom outlet on the passengers side. The 2.8 rads are reversed. Not the same.

Anyone want a great radiator setup? BeCool 700HP kit on a V6. (The BeCool dual fan setup and radiator is just called the "700HP kit" beccause that is the "max" it can handle. Its not overkill when keeping even a V6 at a consistent 175*running temp in the heat of summer with the AC on. It does not fluctuate more than about 10*max at any givin time so the highest this motor sees under the hardest conditions is 185* and it will cycle on and come right back down to 175*. This keeps my trans cool also

 

Yes the tanks were quite different on the 2.8's, but I am referring to the 90-92 V6 when I say it and SOME of the V8's shared a 1" or so core radiator, and some cars got the larger core which Azrael would have everyone believe came in every thirdgen , I doubt John needs much more than the larger stock core, mainly because its other things that are causing overheating problems rather than just radiator size. Fans, sealing the frontal area etc. Oh btw summit now has a drop in like the be cool for our cars under their own brand, its signifigantly cheaper than the " be cool" and has a dual 1" core.

 

Wow guys... it's not a matter of what I need... more a matter of what I want.

I'm with Dean on this - I'd damn sure rather have too much cooling capacity, than too little!

 

Doward, swap the the v8 dual fans as well. Did on mine and its a direct bolt/swap. Then install toggle switch for the extra fan.

 

Ill explain this the easy way.

GM is a big parts bin company. They can afford/ have on had so many different parts they can just grab a smaller rad out of a bin for a V6 and save a few bucks on the bottom line.

After market parts companies do not have such optioins. They must make every from scratch, so they make sure 1 part fits many apps.

It would be dumb for someone to make v6 size rads when the v8 will fit and work fine. Then they only need to carry half the stock.

So I would bet good money that unless you get factory GM parts off a dusty shelf. When you order a V6 and V8 rad, they will have the same part numbers. Looks the same and probably be listed for 30 other car too.

 

That part I know, as I explained, and apparently azrael couldnt stop to ponder that GM actually did put the different rad's in from the factory. Thankfully they did just make the larger core the standard replacement.

Though im very sure my 89 2.8 car took a lot longer to get the heater going in the winter after I swapped the rad in from my 86' Z28 way back when

 

I was reading about your downshift blues. Get you a Corvette TV sleeve and plunger. At 80 it takes me 85% throttle to get a downshift. At 100, I can mash fully into it and it just stays in OD. Not really a problem though as my peak HP is at 4,500. At WFO mine shifts at 4,400 rpm 3-4 on a datalog. With P275/60/R17s and 3.08 gear that is 123 mph. It then drops to 3050, grunts, and goes some more.


Even though I weigh 5,000 lbs from 70 it still only takes me about 100 ft actual stopping distance(Negating RT). Me driving 100, I can still stop better than most SUVs and trucks from 70.

Cadillac Seville rear disc setup, late model hydroboost brake booster and master cylinder, and SSBC front brake setup ensure this.

I also have a front air dam, custom dual shock setup, I am lowered 3" front, 5" rear, sway bars on both ends, Z-rated rubber, all new suspension bushings (polyurethane), rear antisway spring (goes in series with the rear leaf setup) it is a very tight suspension setup. It tracks very straight and smooth even at 130+.

 

First off, How do you know my foot isn't into it aready to keep that speed? You realise I have two of the most built 700r4's anyone has seen- Obviously not. One of my very good friends is Jimmy Galante who use to OWN Darrell Youngs Racing Tranmissions. There isn't a stock part inside this tranny. This motor is to the wood just keeping it that speed never the less trying to even go faster- thats why I was able to do it ONLY downhill.

Next- I can tell right off the bat what a NOOB you are and your posts is all hype. You have any idea to what guy you are talking to telling me your " 5,000 lb truck?" stops 70-0 in 100ft.

Buddy, pull your head out your ***. I happen to be the guy with the most radical brake setup on a 3000lb Camaro you will ever see and I only do 60-0 in 100ft. I think you are confused between "100ft" and "100yards", Yours is the latter of the two.

 

NO BUDDY I think you need to pull your head out.

First off, you don't think I am already into it to go 125+ either. Do you realize that my 700r4 is pretty damn built in itself. After going through 3 near stock rebuilds, I built it myself. I have all 8 ASE certifications, I know what the hell I am doing. It has parts you dream of, 600 ft/lbs capable torque-drive gear/shaft set, valve body modifications, WOT upshifts @ 4,600 RPM(except OD), accumulator deletes or spring changes, Alto kevlar band, billet intermediate servo, .500" TV boost valve, Corvette TV sleeve and plunger, stronger TV spring, upgraded pressure regulator, 13 vane pump, aftermarket sprags, release spring, 9 clutch clutch pack, low-reverse boost valve, transgo shift kit, high output pump spring, intermediate servo release check valve, TV cable corrector spring (adds line pressure), etc. The 1-2 shift at 43 MPH will lay rubber for about 15-20 feet, the 2-3 shift at 80 will chirp them again. My 700r4 WILL do a 3-4 upshift at WOT and 4,400 rpm.

About my stopping distances. My brake setup is probably more radical than yours. Mine is setup to stop 5,000+ lbs and whatever I want to tow behind me. It weighs a little over 5,000 lbs and has a GVW of 6,600 lbs. It stops good when loaded, much less unloaded. Stock and empty mine stops in 126 feet from 60 as proven in road test over several different model years. My 100 ft stopping distance from 70 is NO BS. It can and will do it, you have no idea what kind of pressure the hydroboost can give unless you've had one. I have aftermarket rotors on the rear meant for a Seville and are probably bigger than your fronts(the pads are anyway). My front rotors are 2x the size of your and are slotted just like my rear. My front calipers are 4 pistons SSBCs and my rears are single piston SSBCs. I have more traction, especially over the rear than you could ever dream of. When I tromp the tires and brakes grab hard and it STOPS. It will go from 70-0 on a dime.

 

My fronts.

My rears.

13" of rotor in the front and 11 1/2 in the rear. The rear piston is a single 45mm. The fronts are 4 pistons, each 43 mm. I have 17" Impala SS wheels on mine to clear it. No way a stock 15" rally would clear. Sorry I don't have a picture of them on. The master cylinder and hydroboost are late model 2500 chevy truck pieces. The proportioning valve is for a 1994-1996 Impala SS or 9C1 caprice.

I only have $500 into the whole setup. My buddy had a 1985 C10 with a 540 BBC in it, that he wrecked(They were on both ends). I bought everything off of him. He had more than $3k into everything. On his truck for less than a year.

 

You are clueless SSBC? Give me a break. You have no idea what you are looking at when I posted that picture of mine. My brakes are much more powerful, my car is almost half the weight of yours, my tires are very very high braking traction street rubber and I have about thae best handling streetcar with a full race suspension you will come across, It just has a lirtle 2.8 motor in it for my wife to daily drive.

Point is, this car with all of that only stops 60-0 in 100' and you are going to tell me a heavy *** truck twice the weight is going to OUT BRAKE IT?

By the way, that setup you are seeing is a solid crosspin radialmount 6 piston fixed caliper with aluminum hats and ALUMINUM HUBS for heat disapation and low rotation mass. Rotors on front are 13"x1.25.

The rear setup is also lightweight 2pc 12.2" rotors and 4 piston fixed mount caliper (again, fixed, not crappy floating calipers) and all lightweight and setup for maximun heat dispersion.

You're a frikin idiot.... Funny and entertaining as all heck.... But an idiot never the less.

 

Not a thing in the world wrong with SSBC. So you have full race brakes on your car. Bet you didn't know they only work their best when they are hot (such as repeated stopping). Go drive an older Porsche, you almost have to stand on the brakes when they are cold to stop and I am talking about just backing out of the driveway.

I have come to the conclusion that you know all, see all. You don't believe it possible that someone could out-stop you. Too bad, my stock 60-0 is only about 125 feet. My stock front pads had more area than your front and rear ones do now!!! Area, apply pressure, cooling, rotor mass, as well as a dozen other factors affect stopping distances. My rotors aren't massive chunks for nothing. Hell they are 1.5 thick.

 

Yeah what kind of pressure are you seeing to your calipers. You can have all the caliper area you want, but if I have more pad, more pressure, a more aggressive pad, better short term heat dissapation, and better grip to the road, I will outstop you. Its brakes 101. Hydroboost sytems deliver much more pressure to the calipers than vacuum boosters do, that is a fact. I stop from 70 in about 110 ft. That is a fact! My stock brake setup would stop from 60 in about 125 ft. That is also fact.

 

Considering a Ferrari enzo stock does 60-0 in 109ft and it weight about 250lbs more than me,
And I actually do it in 102ft to be exact,

You are still going to try and prove to me that your internet racer 5000lb truck is going to out brake us from 70-0 faster than we can stop from 60-0

RIIIIIGHT!


Another idiot discredited here on TGO

And gee, I never knew dilivering enough pressure to my brake calipers was a problem, I mean if I push them hard enough they will lock... hows that for pressure. What you need cowboy is balance and sweetspot, you can't get that with those crappy "just for looks" calipers that you jsut for certain are to see everydsay on racecars since they are soooo good.

Also Einstein, how do you know what brake compound I am running, and by the way what pads you run- yes, WARNING, this is a test

Since you "bought them used" from a friend that "Had them on a different vehicle with different weight and braking bias than yours" how did you go about balancing them for your application since his was different?

Shall I go on..? Cause I can all day.

 

..hahahahahahahaha..........wait, serious now........oppps...hahahahahahahahahaahahaa...................no, be nice..................hhahahahahahahahahaha.........I can't help it......haHAHAHAHA.....................
......

.....





.....



(Muffles mouth trying not to laugh) Pha....Pha.....Pha.......Phahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahaha......

 

All I can say is that you are a moroon! You haven't riden in mine nor been there when it was tested. You are still stuck on the idea that something can't be better than yours. If you noticed I haven't given you any BS on why yours can't stop. I am just stating that mine can and that is that!

I also have a hell of a time believing what I am looking at on your car is 13". Too bad we both don't have brake operating pressures. I can lock mine at 90 if I want. You will find that I am outpowering your brakes big time though when it is all said and done. My brakes are capable of locking a bigger tire, with more weight and traction than you, meaning more stopping power. By being able to lock the brakes it shows that our tires are maxed out. I know I can get more bite, that means more energy gets transfered. So what my rears are crappy single pistons. They get the job done on a daily basis. Stops from 70 are right at 110 ft. I don't give a F()lk what you think it will do. I know for a fact that it stops in 110 ft from an indicated 70 mph. That was tested and proven. It will also do a .85G on a skidpad. But then again that is what a fairly low CG, near 50/50 weight distribution, wide and long wheelbase, a good suspension setup, and decent traction will give you.

The weight and braking bias aren't too much different on mine vs his. If you noticed I have a different proportioning valve in the mix as well. The 9C1 more evenly matches my bias and weight. I have alot of rear bias to mine, something you cannot achieve in the F-body due to the light rearend.

 

Jesus christ, I gotta get this out if I coulsd only stop laughing for a minute.........ha................oh heck, hahahahahahahahahahahahah........


hahaha.......


..............HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA....

 

A G20 is a Phahahahahaha.....a phahaa.. A CARGO VAN???????? hahahahahaha......


....hahahahahahaha.




Here, see for yourselves the Enzo eating g20.......

http://www.aacint.com/members-1983-chevrolet-g20.asp

g(0d, now my tummy hurts............. PHHahahahahahahahahahhaaaaaaaa.......

 

This just proves more to me that you are a pain in the ***. Your point? It still runs 15.7s @ 90 with a 305. Your point?

 

Dude, I guessed it, You got a BF anchor that you open the back doors and push out, right? Or is it a BF parachute?


What the heck are you smoking because thats got to be some hairy stuff?


Can I see a picture of YOUR cargo van? Please..... Oh Pretty please? The one that stops 70-0 in 100 or even 110 ft, I'm begging you. Is it a matchbox car or a radio contol car of some type?

Is there a catrch to this?

Am I on Candid Camera?

Did I fall off the turnip truck and hit my head that bad?

Are cows flying?

 

I had no idea toinight was going to be so entertaining on here.

 

Everyone look for V6#34. They'll probably ban my next 14 names immedately after this post.

 

Here you go. Before the SS rims, 275/60/R15s and the big crappy SSBC brakes, LOL.

 

Just for the record, if you were to have a company duplicate my front brake assembly it alone would cost much more than $3000 Probably even over $4500- Just for the front wheel assemblies.
Then the backs are about $1400, the propvalve(S) and lines are about another $600 to get the cockpit adjustable balance into it.

 

Your point. You said so yourself that you can easily lock them. Mine takes nearly all the pressure I can put out to lock them at 90. You aren't using all of your braking power. Once again back to you balance you spoke of. I can use almost all my braking power and grip the road to turn the vans momentum into heat.

 

Dude, the inside of that van much have less visability than Cheech and Chongs van. Thats some thick smoke you got there buddy,..


"Warning, smoking a bong while driving a G20 cargo van will decrease your stopping distance dramatically. Objests in mirror have actually be run over by you already"

 

FYI, I haven't smoked, not once.

Your RS is next

 

Kid, really, how old are you?


Or better yet, who paid you and put you up to messing with me here, This is a gag setup right?

 

I really don't appreciate being called a kid. I am actually 26 if you must know. Nobody is paying me to mess with you, if you want to call it that? Whatever floats your boat. It takes me 2 miles to stop from 60 because its a van. LOL.