is it a clean swap between a stock tank to one out of an iroc? my car always sputters going around even a gentil curve if its below 1/4 tank of fuel. and i would like the extra fuel capacity cause i have heard they are 18gal correct? but if not i will sacrifice capacity to stop the sputtering.

 

i also want to do this, unfortunatley the pick a part her drills huge holes in all the gas tanks "for saftey" so they are useless.

 

Nope. 16.2, 16.0, 15.9, 15.5, were the sizes for all third gens, depending on engine & year.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=242850

 

oh ok well then can the swap be done? and will the pump and such work with my engine and if not what will i need to modify?

 

I think it's all the same tank; but to be safe, get one out of a car that had multiport or tuned port or throttle body injection.

Also, you could ask this on the main tech forum (instead of on the v6 forum) to get more responses.

 

I think you can also use a 4th gen gas tank. I read a post a long time ago about this.

 

You seek a 1990 & later 3rd gen tank.
Those tanks have internal baffles as our early years do not.
The 4th gne swap "has been done" but I'd think it's way easier to find a 1990-92 & later tank.
Should be direct fit.
And I have "same tank" in my 1985. I have no true problem going around turns and I do run my tank low until the gas price goes down.
Time to replace fuel pump assembly set up I'd say.
Or keep more fuel in there.
Why bother with swap, it's too much labor, unless the pump goes with the same tank swap mission.

 

i was wanting the baffled tank and the swinging fuel pickup that the irocs are supposed to have so that even with low fuel you can take corners hard and such without interupting the flow of fuel.
P.S. i drive like a maniac all the time. and to me what is a slow turn is 15 to 20mph in town and about 40 on county roads. i like to hear the tires scream

 

Its probably easier to just keep more gas in the car but I would do the mod to if it wasn't such a big job. You basically need to pull the whole rear end off to get it out. Why some do the hack a hole in the hatch area to change the fuel pump.

Then while you got the rear end out you might as well change bushings and service all of it well.

 

Plus when there's more gas in the tank, the pump gets "submerged" in the gas, and it helps to cool the pump down. That makes the pump last longer.

Plus every time the gas sloshes away from the pickup, the pump is running try- and that can hurt the pump too. I used to drive on Empty when I first got my car- as soon as I learned about the cooling and running-dry issues, I never go below 1/4 tank.

I'm pretty sure the baffles were for "real" track racing where you want to run with as little gas as possible to save weight.

 

Any one have a cutaway I am curious to what it looks like with the baffles inside.

 

HONESTLY?
ONE, YOU ALREADY HAVE THOSE BAFFLES IN YOUR CAR TANK
TWO
RECALL YOUR 455 OIL PAN?
"THOSE TYPE OF BAFFLES" SAME IDEA, DONE "DIFFERENTLY".
Help?

 

ok well mabe i ll just try to keep my foot out of the gas so that it will last me longer. thx for the tips i guess the tank swap aint such a good idea see i learn lots on here i love this place keeps me from making Dumb A$$ decisions. but having so little gas makes my car go faster of course if i loose about 100 pounds that might do the same thing im shure that 310 pounds of dead weight dont help much.

 

Ya i remeber i had to get a baffled pan for my 455 the stocker was just a plane jane pan. But i get the idea now.

 

Yeah cost was my decision & timing, to NOT upgrade to a 1990 & above gas tank when I did my pump swap.
But Fast RS ya car already has baffled tank. Lucky.
Glad the analogy helped ya.
Be saying hi soon!

 

Oh yea, My car has much more pep with less the half a tank but with these crazy gas prices I find it better to pretend half a tank is empty. That way I am never caught low on gas and can get by till prices even out.

 

LOL, Gumby- I do the same thing!