So its been over a year since I've been on here and I was still kinda a newbie back then. I dropped outta here because both of my Camaros weren't running and I had other projects come up along the way so money and time wasn't aimed at them. Well I moved a year ago from Oregon out to Wyoming to go to school BUT due to problems with my finacial aid, that didn't quite work out as planned. So now I'm out here working for Wal-Mart in the Tire and Lube Express makin kinda ****ty money but its more then I was makin in Oregon. Well now here's the reason I'm back. Its time to revive the Camaros, well one for right now. Currently I have 2. One being an '88 Sport Coupe with a 2.8liter, Borg Warner T5 and a LSD 3.42 rear end. The other which is more of a project is a very rare, well one of a kind rare, '88 IROC-Z 1LE police interceptor with t-tops. Yeah some people on here don't believe me but I got paperwork to prove it though I got no scanner to put it up. I'm getting my Sport Coupe back on the road after its long, 3 year sit due to some timing issue. Now here's the questions...

The reason why I think, well almost know, its a timing related issue is because it ran fine until I started messing with it one day. Ran fine for about 25 miles and then it started falling all over itself and having MAJOR problems. Well I hooked a scan tool up to it and it said the timing was fine (8* BTDC IIRC) and it idled ok but the instant you put a load on the engine, it wanted to die, and stalled coming to a stop. I put some new parts in it like plugs, wires, cap, rotor and 02 sensor. Still ran like **** but it fouled all 6 plugs in it. So I got pissed and parked it where she's sat since. I was doing some reading on an online manual and I realized that I forgot to put a jumper into the diagnostic port inside the cab BUT I did make sure to disconnect the single tan/black wire on the firewall. Would forgetting the jumper make it do this? Would it screw with the computer to make it think it was running at 8* BTDC which it's not? I need a set of wheels for winter since my '89 Subaru RX turbo is down for the count (rebuilding the whole car for draggin). Let me know what everyone thinks of this since I'm getting the car right after the New Year. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

do cheapest things first

and did you get any codes?

try a fuel filter?

 

Reconnect that wire. Then disconnect you battery and let the computer reset. Hook it back up and you should be ok. I did the same thing when I did the timing on my RS w/2.8 MPFI and then hooked the single tan jumper for the timing back up and it was good to go. But with it sitting so long, you might wanna change your oil, air filters, fuel filter, check the plugs, wires, vac lines make sure it's all good to go so you don't end up with any other mystery problems right off the bat.

 

ok well I didn't think of the fuel filter and I don't know why I didn't. As for pulling codes, I had it running, hooked up to a Snap-On scan tool and everything was reading fine ie: sensors, timing, etc. As for the single wire on the firewall, I DID disconnect that to reset the timing and I remebered to plug it back in BUT I forgot to put the jumper in the diagnostic port which is probably where I screwed up. So here's a list of stuff that I remember replacing in it way back when...
coil, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, the module in the disty, 02 sensor
So I'm also making a list of stuff that I'll need to get before I start her back up. Here's that list...
fuel filter, air filters, oil and filter, plugs since all of mine are fouled, new battery
Anymore thoughts/feedback/help would definatly be grateful. Oh, and also, this problem stumped one of my college automotive professors and he had an '84 Z28 too....

 

Sounds like your on top of it man. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Really should be all that it needs to get back to running right.

 

from reading another posting here in the v6 forum ( https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=334844 ) I'm beginning to think I may have a possible IAC problem? If I did, would it show on a scan tool as being out of adjustment? I do know how to test them on the car, only problem is that I need it to run first so I'm going to replace all the fluids and whatnot plus the plugs, and see if she'll run. She she does, I'll get the voltage specs for the IAC and plug my Fluke into it and see what I come up with. I have also replaced the MAF sensor with another one since we thought it might have been the probem but it turned out to not even help it whatsoever. Also, could it be the cold start injector sticking open somehow? IIRC, '88 still had the CSI since my '88 IROC has one as well. Just trying to think of anything else it could be.