ok i did a scan and found codes 32 and 35,.i will now do a search on here for these trouble codes,.,.i want to know what i need to do, to correct what is wrong.,,.from an earlier post by some one i found and stored a code list to my comp,.so i know that code 32>> is Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve.....[and code 35 is>> Idle speed can not be set to desired RPM... i just not sure spicificaly what they need me to do,.lol?

 

[quote=gottfuel]ok i did a scan and found codes 32 and 35,.i will now do a search on here for these trouble codes,.,.i want to know what i need to do, to correct what is wrong.,,.from an earlier post by some one i found and stored a code list to my comp,.so i know that code 32>> is Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve.....[and code 35 is>> Idle speed can not be set to desired RPM... i just not sure spicificaly what they need me to do,.lol?

Code 32 is EGR and Code 35 is IAC Valve(Idle Air Control).You will either need to get a diagnostic flow chart and pin point the problem or you can try and replace the EGR (not cheap) and IAC valve ,clear the codes and hope they dont return.Or take it to a repair shop?..your call.

 

thanks alot man! i really appritiate your feed back i guess every one else was to buzy to aknoledge me., i knew about the codes and was asking detail and thoughts into these issues. any how i once heard about a dude on here who compleatly blocked his egr with a lil plate ,.or is the egr really that inportant?
also i will be searching for a diagnostic flow chart,. that is the kinda mecanics ide like to learn .,for me this would be great and give me full understanding,.

 

Exhaust Gas Recirculation...basically it takes some of the exhaust gases and sends it back into the intake to get burned again.It reduces an emission gas called NOx and reduces the temp of the engine.Some people block it off,but going through emissions might give you a problem..you might not pass if they do a underhood inspection.I tested mine and its a fairly easy test.if you pull it off you will see three holes of different size and the ECM triggers one of the solenoids to open a specific one at a certian RPM.I have seen these EGR's go bad cause of plugged exhaust..plugged exhaust cause of a overrich situation.You might have more then one problem..Good luck

 

ok so how do i test it again?
i re read you post to me over and over but i still dont know what to look for or realy how to test this egr??
All i got was ""its a fairly easy test.if you pull it off you will see three holes of different size and the ECM triggers one of the solenoids to open a specific one at a certian RPM."" im not sure how to test properly.,also now im worried should i pull plugs and check them for each cylinder??sounds like where you were going! would a bad egr have a substatial decrease in my fuel economy?? plus im not even sure i know its not Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit?
i first need to know how to rule out the barometric pressure sensor circuit

 

As for the IAC, you can take it out of your throttle body and check to see if it is working correctly. IIRC, you just push the little pin in and if it springs back out you're ok...but you should check on that because I'm sure that there are some electrical tests that you can do on it as well. While you're in there, you can spray some TB and intake cleaner and clean all those passageways out...they get pretty filled with gunk after all these years.

 

cool thanks illtry that today.,!! Any one here able to explain to me how to properly check my egr valve so i can rule it out

 

This is a manual test for those who dont own a scanner ...if you remove the electrical plug on the EGR ,you will notice four connectors or pins on the EGR.The one near the clip to remove the connector will be our power source,then there will be one underneath at the same angle...then one at an angle to the left and one at an angle to the right.Run a jumper ...I ran mine to the back of the alternator or you can run it to the positive on the battery,to the one nearest the connector clip.You will need another jumper wire connected it to a good ground..I use the upper shock stud.Now start the engine(let it idle) and ground or touch each other connector ..be careful not to touch the other jumper wire(power source) and touch each connector..notice the engine rpms...since each hole is of different size you will notice one will be a slight drop,the other will be more of a drop .and one will drop the rpm really good might even stall.If you dont notice a drop one of the orifices is plugged or the EGR is bad.One is a small orifice so you might not even notice a difference in RPM's.I thought mine was bad so I pulled it off and noticed the size of the orifice it was so small,I was surprised to notice any difference.I had to touch it a few times,but the others were noticeable.A good scanner will do this same procedure...hope that helps.