swaybar + wonderbar swap pics
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,248
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
swaybar + wonderbar swap pics
my steering box split almost in half and i had it welded. large improvement just having it welded. however even after that the car still wandered. i didnt notice it, but 2 of my girlfriends ive had over the summer had a hard time driving it for the first time, as they are used to rack and pinion, i guess.

dont be fooled, this crack is over a foot and a half long. 2 cracks. over an inch of play at the frame.
so i decided i needed a wonderbar. else the crack would come back. ebay bid on the swaybar won it and then emailed asking if he had a wonderbar and he did. i got the sway bar for 10$, and the wonderbar for 45$, plus shipping to canada, plus 13$ duty fee.
installation really easy to do although first time i had the sway bar on upside down, then the wonderbar. should have looked at pics first





noticed a difference right away. no more front end lean and the steerring is crisp.
only mod i had to do was take out the lower fan bolt that has the bump stop for the rad hose to give a slight clearence for the wonderbar. i didnt remove the bump stop just took out the bolt.

dont be fooled, this crack is over a foot and a half long. 2 cracks. over an inch of play at the frame.
so i decided i needed a wonderbar. else the crack would come back. ebay bid on the swaybar won it and then emailed asking if he had a wonderbar and he did. i got the sway bar for 10$, and the wonderbar for 45$, plus shipping to canada, plus 13$ duty fee.
installation really easy to do although first time i had the sway bar on upside down, then the wonderbar. should have looked at pics first





noticed a difference right away. no more front end lean and the steerring is crisp.
only mod i had to do was take out the lower fan bolt that has the bump stop for the rad hose to give a slight clearence for the wonderbar. i didnt remove the bump stop just took out the bolt.
i did the same swap in my car.i had a donor 1LE car for the parts.huge improvement over stock.the energy suspension bushings work pretty well also on the swaybars.did u swap out the rear bar also?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,248
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
nope i dont have a rear bar, as its a berlinetta. just took it for a romp, i was expecting understeer but i havent seen any yet, i still have the 14" rims on too. not that big a deal, the front stays flat. i like it.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
I put in the biggest swaybar TDS carried, along with poly greasable bushings, nylon 1LE endlinks, and the wonderbar
The front end is on rails now
Then I put in the Alston SFC's, wow, incredible difference
Can't wait to get a Strut Tower Brace, LCA's & Relocation Brackets, Panhard, and the biggest swaybar I can find for the rear........
because that would mean my suspension is done and i can do a motor swap, lol
The front end is on rails now
Then I put in the Alston SFC's, wow, incredible difference
Can't wait to get a Strut Tower Brace, LCA's & Relocation Brackets, Panhard, and the biggest swaybar I can find for the rear........
because that would mean my suspension is done and i can do a motor swap, lol
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 73
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From: B.F.E.
Car: 1990 Buick Century (pimped out
Engine: 3300
Transmission: 4 spd auto
Axle/Gears: ??????????
Originally Posted by Dizturbed One
I put in the biggest swaybar TDS carried, along with poly greasable bushings, nylon 1LE endlinks, and the wonderbar
The front end is on rails now
Then I put in the Alston SFC's, wow, incredible difference
Can't wait to get a Strut Tower Brace, LCA's & Relocation Brackets, Panhard, and the biggest swaybar I can find for the rear........
because that would mean my suspension is done and i can do a motor swap, lol
The front end is on rails now
Then I put in the Alston SFC's, wow, incredible difference
Can't wait to get a Strut Tower Brace, LCA's & Relocation Brackets, Panhard, and the biggest swaybar I can find for the rear........
because that would mean my suspension is done and i can do a motor swap, lol
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,123
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From: North Central Mass.
Car: 1985 Berlinetta
Engine: Megasquirted TPI
Transmission: Transgo 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Also, email John in RI, there are a few other pieces you will need to keep that crack from coming back. They didn't add them to the berlis, but they are some triangular braces that help support the trouble areas... they added them in the later years and all of the performance models.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
Originally Posted by stoned_pimp420
It sounds like you stole my ideas for my camaro I will definatly be writing this stuff down. Oh BTW Dizturbed about how much $ is under the suspension in your car so far?
another 100-150 on a strut tower brace (i want a three point)
another 150 or so for some LCA's, probably another 50 or so on top of that for relocation brackets
a little over 100 for an adjustable panhard rod (you need it if you want to ever lower the car)
and another 125 to 200 or so (depending on size and what endlinks you get) for the rear swaybar and poly bushings
then another 200 for some Eibach drop springs, and 2-300 for some shocks. maybe cheaper, cause i been thinking about sticking with some stock style KYB's or something so the ride stays pretty smooth, all the poly and stiffer pieces on the car will more than make up for some close to stock rates on all four corners.
besides that, i plan on a total front end rebuild, and replacing all the rubber bushings in the car with poly except the torque arm, which will get a new rubber piece that i want to tap for a grease fitting. i still want the car relatively smooth for daily driving
i think i'll get out of the suspension on this car for under 1500 bucks in the long run, and its nice that i can do it a piece at a time so its not one big fat bill... plus its cool feeling the difference in each individual piece, lol.
you could go all out with tubular k-member, a-arms, and torque arm for probably another 1500 or so, but the torque arm is the farthest i'd ever intend to go
Last edited by Dizturbed One; Aug 3, 2006 at 02:41 PM.
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