...man!!! OK, I installed new dizzy. Not that bad, the old one was a beotch getting off. My timing was'nt off but about 1 or 2 degrees. I had unplugged the EST bypass, set car in drive and set timing to base 10*. Cut off car and re-connected EST. Took her out for a spin, came to a stop light and it stalled and the engine cut off on me. OK, restarted the car and continued my journey into town. Slowed to take a corner and yet again the car cut off on me. THIS is irritating!!. I am going to take off the dizzy cap and see if it has damage on it like the old one did with the gouging caused by the rotor. If it it, I'm thinking maybe a bad cam. Hope not. I'll have to say the Cardone dizzy is made much better than the OEM one. I noticed after I took the old one off, the base of the dizzt was kinda warped or bent whereas the new one was completelt flat. What caused this bending in the old one? I got a feeling it may be a bad sensor somewhere causing my stalling. TPS, MAP or maybe IAC.

Ken

 

i dont think the dist would cause u to stall like that, it could possibly be a fuel pump/filter

 

Sounds like a fuel problem. Dont think it is the filter tho. Normaly with a bad filter it will die anytime it idles, not only when you stop or turn. The sending unit might have went bad and you are acturaly out of gass.

Good luck with it.

 

Have you recently disconnected the battery? Or, pulled the ECM fuse?

RBob.

 

Well...I know its got 3/4 tank of gas, so it being the sender giving me false reading is out of the equation. In so far as the ECM fuse or battery being disconnected...hmmmm. I had the battery disconnected while I was doing the tune-up last week to avoid me hitting the hot post on the alternator as I was changing plugs on that side. The ONLY major thing I can think of was the IAC valve. I was going to clean it one day and I was checking the pintle length out and the pintle shot out of the IAC body. I noticed it had threads and I screwed it back in the IAC body. Might have been goin' bad all along anyway and needs replacing. I left it out of the throttle body and turned the key to the RUN position and the pintle moved, so it least its functional but maybe not operating properly. I'd hate to change out fuel pump or injectors unecessarily. Any thoughts on the IAC? MAP OR TPS?

Ken

 

After a battery disconnect (3.1l ONLY) an idle learn needs to be performed. Otherwise it will do exactly as you found: stalling and surging. This isn't as important on stick trans vehicles, but the auto trans vehicles have to have it done.

The only fly in the ointment may be the IAC. The pintle isn't supposed to be able to turn. There is a slot in the shaft along with a key in the body. If you sheared off the key by rotating the shaft you need a new IAC.

Here is the idle learn procedure:

Idle Learn Procedure for 3.1L V6:

Disconnect battery, wait one minute, and reconnect.

Turn off A/C.
Turn off Backlight Heater (rear window defroster).

Do Not Touch The Throttle at Any Point.
Do Not Touch The Steering Wheel at Any Point.

Set parking brake and chock tires.

Start engine, let settle a bit and put trans in drive.
(stick trans leave in neutral)

Let engine run until fan cycles on then off.

Turn off engine.

Wait five minutes.

Start engine and place in gear.

Let idle for five minutes or until fan cycles.

Shut off engine.

End of procedure.


If the throttle is touched at anytime during this you have
to start from the 'disconnect battery' again.

If the steering wheel has pressure applied you have
to start from the 'disconnect battery' again.

If the engine stalls at any point just restart and place
back into gear.

--

RBob.

 

Got it. I'll replace the IAC first then I'll do the idle learn reset. I've always wondered what do most people drive in, DRIVE or OVERDRIVE. The drive selector has an OD right above the D. I was always told to set in OD when driving.

Ken

 

Update..the idle learn did'nt work. So, I'm going to get a new IAC valve. I went to partsamerica.com (Advance Auto) and they had one for 33.48 plus tax. I went to my local Advance to see if they had the same thing. Sure....for $51.xx!!!!! So I tried to get them to let me have it for the website price. NO DICE. I even showed them the print out from thier own website. No sweat. I came home and ordered it online to be picked up by me from the VERY SAME store I left from. The total online was $35.82 with tax and free s/h. SUCKERS!!! I even printed out the confirmation order to take in with me as well to prove I ordered it from partsamerica and to be picked up at thier store. They can't deny me. Why have things gotta be so difficult?

Ken

 

IAC valve could be an issue, but there are other possibilities. Ignition timing too low is one. Improper TPS voltage could be another, as well as low idle rpms. And a bad fuel filter. And a vacuum leak. Ive had stalling issues from all of the above so they are all possibilities. Check them out one-by-one, and don't just throw parts at it. Too many people make that mistake and wind up with their problem fixed.....$250 later, when it could have only taken $50. Know what I mean?

 

Yeah...I know what ya mean. After all the money you had throwing parts at it, you coulda had another engine. I put a new IAC valve on it and it really did'nt change anything even after I did the idle learn over again. I'm going to check the timing again and maybe advance it a little. I am going to check the dizzy cap again and make sure its not damaged like the other two. I doubt if it is. The other dizzy base was just plain warped and the cap probably was'nt seating right and it got chewed by the rotor. I DID notice however a clicking sound or two from the rear of the plenum. I'm thinking fuel injectors may be going bad. I revved the engine and the clicking got faster and it did sound as if it was coming from the injectors. Might be time for some anyway. What are the stock lbs? 15? or what? I might do injectors as a project this time rather than keep wasting money on fuel cleaners. Ain't gonna fix bad injectors.

Ken

 

Get a multimeter and disconnect the injectors one by one and probe them for resistance. Post up your findings, I dont know what normal resistance is for yours, but someone on here will.

 

Would'nt I have to take off the trottlebody and plenum to get to the injector harness to even try to test them? I don't think you can pull them off without doing all that.

Ken

ps... got this from cruisin' in so far as cleaning my injectors...

Hi Ken,
If they are the original injectors that came in your car new, they are
the first design Multec's and they aren't worth servicing. You would be
better off putting the money towards a replacement set.
The injectors cannot be disassembled and repaired so any that test bad
have to be replaced.

 

Well if you're going to look at replacing them anyways, you'll need to have them out...might as well ohm test them before you replace them. Not as familiar with thirdgens as I used to be, but yeah there's a good chance you'll have to pull the upper plenum. Shouldn't be very hard, just disconnect all vacuum lines and connections to the upper, disconnect the throttle linkages and intake tubing, and pull the upper along with the throttlebody off as one assembly. At least that's how I do it on my 302.

 

Crusin' is correct about the Multec's, junk. Need to remove the plenum to get to them. If you do that and still have the TB coolant connected, it may be easier to unbolt the TB from the plenum and leave it in place. Won't need to open the cooling system.

Anything below 12 ohms is bad. Checking them hot is recommended. What happens with the Multec's is that the insulation on the windings breaks down. then coils then start shorting out. Injector cleaners hasten this demise.

About 15 #/hr for stock ones. If you can find a set from an earlier 2.8l (non-Multec) can try those. May need cleaning first, may not.

RBob.

 

Well I called Rich at cruzin' since my email was'nt working at all through my ISP. He said the Accels are a good replacement, however, I need to look for the Accels that are Black and Silver in color and NOT the black and yellow. For some reason the black and yellow ones have given some people some trouble. He said be sure to get the black and silver ones. And on a lighter note, i saw some Multec remans. (go figure) on Motor Mans website for $19.99 each with no core charge. Just buy them outright. Yeah, right...who wants remanned injectors that are prone to go out at any time.

Ken

 

The same people who are taking their used ones out of their car and sending them off to get cleaned...

A reman'd injector is actually a better idea than getting it cleaned because you get new windings in the solenoid along with a nice clean injector. For $19.99, a WAY better deal than taking yours out, sending them off to be cleaned and then re-installing them.

 

Hello!
I want to ask, about the following procedure. The procedure starting when the baterry is reconnect, but I disconnect and reconnect battery, when engine is warm (for ex. 160F) or when is cool (for ex. under 90F)? I ask about that, because in my previous car, the idle learn procedure starting in hot engine.