1st off, I'M BACK!!! I got another third gen and this time I got alot of work ahead of me. I found a 3.1 FWD V6 short block with iron heads on ebay for $400 shipped.
I also found a 700R4 for $800 shipped. I know the FWD block will bolt up to the RWD engine, I am a lil worried that the starter will be on the wrong side and that I might need to modify the wiring but all things considered its no big deal. After I have that together and in my car I plan on upgrading to injectors that flow twice whatever stock is, Too lazy to look up #'s while I'm writing, and making custom exhaust manifolds that go into into dual garett t3/t4s then into a 3 in custom exhaust. Im planning on running a single intercooler with dual capacity (2 inlet/outlets), I wanna make a ram air design intake for air inlet and a dual pipe into 1 for into the TB. I know theres alot of really smart people with alot of expierence on these threads so my question is does anybody see a problem with what I want to do? I'm looking for 300+ HP at 20 PSI.

 

hey theres a brand new 3.1 with aluminum heads on ebay for 100$'s right now with a 3month/12000 mile warrenty,if ur gonna go threw all that work might as well get the one with the aluminum heads

 

Does that requires a new intake and a DIS? I'd rather keep a all stock look other then the turbo stuff so I'm not sure that option is for me. Btw Im glad to see you respond, Your sticky on a turbo install inspired this! How much HP do you think you gained with your setup?

 

412/467 hp/tq @ 18 psi though thats with everything to go along with the turbo
and i just found out today that a gen2 fwd intake can be machines or ground with a cutoff wheel to allow the dizzy to fit

 

What do you mean everything to go along with the turbo? Im putting together a "kit" similar to the parts you used except Im doing twin turbo, What kind of HP should I expect witha twin turbo? If you have 412 with a single, That far surpasses what I was expecting. Maybe instead of dual T3/T4 I should get a smaller turbo to suppliment the T3/T4. I am also useing the harness and computer from a 92 so it is a MAP setup, I know I need to replace the MAP with a 3bar setup so it works. Anything else you can recommend?

 

lol slow down a bit, ur not gonna get that much power out of a stock engine.
#1 if u do twins u use 2 smaller turbos like 2 t3's, if u go single u use a t3/t4 t61 etc
#2 by everythig i mean ported heads/intake/cam,ex system etc
#3 even if u change out the map sensor it will do u no good,
the stock ecm cant read boost,u need to run the sy/ty code,the speed density system in "STOCK FORM" is not as good as the maf setup for running a turbo
#4 i would sugest moving away from the stock computers all together and going to a standalone system like megasquirt, aem ems
#5 stock pistions arent gonna hold up to well under more then 10-12 psi( i have run more then this but its not safe)

 

Well I wasn't expecting much over 300 HP, Do you think a stock setup will do that at 10 PSI?

 

it should,i would have had dyno numbers this past weekend but i fried my trans on the dyno on the first pull.i no longer have the engine i put 412 down with,right now i have a stock 3.1 in the car running 10 psi with a 50 shot of nitrous,until my new engine is done.but if i had to quess id say it would have been just over 300 without the juice

 

Forget that FWD engine, if it does have iron heads, it will also have the small journal crank, drop that **** like it's hot.

Just ge a Longitudily mounted block, it will bolt up MUSC easier to the tranny, and mounts. The FWD block, even if it has iron head, has the starter on the opposite side, and also the lower tranny bolt hole has no thread in it on the passenger side, due to the way the engine and tranny bolt together in the transverse application.
The mount pad on what would be the driver's side is non-existant, and so therefore a custom mount would need to be made.
All of which is pointless to use a small journal block for.

 

I have a pair of turbos I'll sell you cheap, they're out of a 300zxtt. They're garretts with a/r .48 intake and .63 exhaust. They need rebuilding, which I could do and charge you for the parts (depending on quality of bearing requested). They're water cooled and have an internal wastegate. If your going with twins, why wouldn't you use a two inlet/one outlet intercooler to simplify install?

 

What's the trims?

 

Ha, Drop it like its hot, Thats the last song that was played on kareoke(sp?) before I left the bar! After all this feed back Im thinking single turbo on a stock engine. I think this FWD block is a great deal and I don't wanna wait to get my car on the road. Since it is iron heads can't I just port the heads and get a trueleo intake and do the turbo setup? Like I said I don't wanna pass up the engine, Its only 250 not shipped and 80-160 for shipping, For a reman its a great deal. I have made 2 custome wiring harnesses so far so the starter on the side is no big deal. If only 1 tranny bolt is not gonna work isn't that not really an issue? I want feedback positive or negative, I have read so much but have only minamal hand on expierence.

 

dont waste ur money on the truelow intake,gasket match the stock manifold,ddr dave gasket matched the upper to the mid section and picked up 10 cfm or some ****.if u really want to do something get rid of the uppe rall together and get a plenum made for the top,most shops should be able to do it pretty cheap if u cant do it.

turbo motors like short runners,with a med to small sized plenum

 

The woiring is not the issue, that's easy, it's actually fitting the starter on teh wrong side. The oil filter will get in the way, or the starter will be in the way of the oil filter, depending on how you look at it. The longitudily mounted engine uses a different oil filter adaptor that places the filter in a location to clear the K-member/cross member, which just so happens to be a similar location to where the start is on a FWD application., then fitting exhaust through there would be tricky, I haven't enev mentione the starter pocket being non existant in the RWD tranny bellhousing, or the clutch linkage if it's a stick, the clutch fork also occupies the same area.
Move onto the aforementioned driver side engine mount, and guess what that deal you're getting won't seem so much like a deal after to spoend all the time and extra money adapting the FWD block to fit....

and the biggest reason for not using the FWD block, again is the small journal crank bearings that were KNOWN to break under N/A stock conditions. No FWD genI block had the large journals.

Just use a RWD block, save yourself a world of headaches and annoyances, full well knowning that it will actually bolt into your chassis.
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I'll agree with the short runner idea, but just about any engine likes the plenum to be large, especially when it's street driven with varying RPMs and throttle changes.

 

Just incase it matters, Here is the ebay ad.

"This Long Block Engine has been remanufactured by PROFormance Powertrain, www.goppt.com, an O.E. qualified Engine Remanufacturer. This engine is being sold at well below retail price due to excess inventory. Detailed engine description: GM Chevrolet V-6, 3.1 Liter, 1991-1993, 189ci, VIN D, FWD, T.B.I., cast iron heads, flat tappet, has extra ribbing in the lifter valley, has center reluctor ring, with or without notch on crank, not trigger fire ignition, (not For T.P.I.), ONLY BLOCK CASTINGS 653 & 519 (PROF# 1896.3)
Engine Features:

· New Pistons, Rings, Timing Components, Freeze Plugs, Gasket Sets, Valve Guides, Lifters, Rod, Cam and Main Bearings

· Crankshaft and Camshaft have been reground, polished, and oil holes chamfered to rigid specifications

· Rods are checked for bend or twist, resized and honed to O.E.M. specifications

· Valve Seats are 3-angle cut for optimum sealing

· Block has been shot blast cleaned and mangnafluxed to ensure unseen cracks do not cause a premature failure

· Block deck and cylinder heads are resurfaced to ensure proper clearance and oil control

· Engine has been functionally tested

No Core required"

 

1991 to 1993 is genII, aluminium head, and will not be a bolt in in any stretch of the imagination.

 

www.killerbv6.com/conkits.html <~~~~ maybe that can help you out.

 

Thanks for that link but I already found that site, Its what made me think I could use the FWD block in the 1st place. Six_shooter, That engine is a REMAN, It has iron heads. Its not a stock engine, Whoever built it changed some stuff I guess. But that auction has ended and I didn't bid. Im back to square 1 now. My friend has a 95 4th gen with a V8, 10k miles on rebuilt engine and trans. Hes asking 2500 but will sell to me for 2k. Im thinking I could buy that and use the magnacharger blower on it to go forced induction. *sigh* I was so excited to be finaly on my way to rebuilding my 3rd gen. Oh well another "dead" Dream. BTW I still have that Fageol roots type blower, I paid $900. Make a reasonable offer on it if your interested.

 

just the other day i mentioned to somone on anothe rboard that u had the blower for soale a while back,ill give the guy a link to this thread since he happenes to be looking for one

 

I re-read the description, I had a momentary lapse and forgot about the Transport Minivans.

But in all honesty, if you think that adapoting the aluminium heads would be difficult (I know a different scenario, but still...), the FWD block is even MORE difficult to use. Stick to a RWD block, unless you have some serious tools, and lots of time/skill.

Look for a RWD block and save yourself lots of headaches, and time.

There is no gain to using a FWD block, unless you step uo to the genIII design with the better oil gallies and a few other benifits, like crossbolted mains....

 

actually im curious how much boost can the blower push? ive got a second v6 car that needs some sort of power adder