Can't get car to idle w/24# inj
Can't get car to idle w/24# inj
Help, I can't get the 'bird to idle. Today I installed 1.7 roller rockers and 24# blue tops along with a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The stock fuel pressure is turned down as far as it will go and the car is loading up bad.
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Any suggestions?
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EDIT : Actually the car will stay runnning if I take the brake booster vacuum line off, LOL.
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Any suggestions?
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EDIT : Actually the car will stay runnning if I take the brake booster vacuum line off, LOL.
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From: Highlands, NJ
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 3.4 outa 95' bird
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open rear
call me crazy but what mods do you have that require 24 lb injectors? those are wayyyyy to big for whatever you have, especially without a tune. and what brand afpr do you have, you gotta check your fuel pressure because even if you have it turned down as low as it can go, some of them have issues with still being too high.
You should hear it run, sounds like a monster cam.

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call me crazy but what mods do you have that require 24 lb injectors? those are wayyyyy to big for whatever you have, especially without a tune. and what brand afpr do you have, you gotta check your fuel pressure because even if you have it turned down as low as it can go, some of them have issues with still being too high.
But untill I get a full EMS (probably from MegaSquirt) I need to figure out a way to get these to work.
EDIT : The AFPR I got is a cheapie from e-bay. The only instructions I could find said to put it on the return line and leave the stock FPR in place.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Highlands, NJ
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 3.4 outa 95' bird
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open rear
well, for right now, those are way to big. its idleing when you take the booster line off because you're leaning out the crazy rich a/f ratio you have. you need a tune or you're gonna be fouling plugs and washing the oil off the cylinder walls.
I understand what's going on, but there are people here running large injectors without a problem. When I get the turbo on, still need to be able to idle.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 273
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From: Highlands, NJ
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 3.4 outa 95' bird
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open rear
then i would check the FP. just b/c its turned down all the way doesnt mean its low, it could be like 45-50 still
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Yeah that's next, got dark on me and was tired after being in the driveway all day in 80* weather.
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Can I use the AFPR in place of the stock FPR?
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Can I use the AFPR in place of the stock FPR?
Last edited by firstfirebird; Jan 20, 2007 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 273
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From: Highlands, NJ
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 3.4 outa 95' bird
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open rear
damn you and your 80*, its like 15* here, but the adjustable one can definetly be used in place on the stock regulator as long as it is set to the right pressure, and check if there are any vac. leaks on the line going to the regulator, that would raise FP
and check if there are any vac. leaks on the line going to the regulator, that would raise FP
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Probably tommorw will switch back to the stock inj and see if it's the 1.7rr's throwing things off.
i already know what ur problem is, the stock fpr is still keeping the base fp at stock,u need to buy the correct fpr for ur fuel rail or it will not work correctly,
though u could gut the stock fpr and leave the one u bought in the return line and then it will work
though u could gut the stock fpr and leave the one u bought in the return line and then it will work
I just don't trust this afpr I got. The guage isn't even reading, even tried to swap the lines and still nothing. Guess it was only $20 if it's junk, though.
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Gut the stocker, that's a good idea!
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Gut the stocker, that's a good idea!
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
just wondering, but why would you put injectors that big in, when youre not going to be putting in the MS to fix the problems it may cause at the same time? why not wait and do it all at the same time?
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I have bad news for you, when you change injectors of that magnatude of size, there is NO mechanical method to properly compensate. Adjusting by the fuel pressure does not modify the fuel flow in a LINEAR relationship (when compared to changing injector size which does change fuel flow in a linear relationship).
Adjusting the AFPR will have it's greatest affects on fuel flow at WOT and it's least effect at Idle...exactly what you are trying to fix. An AFPR is great for someone who needs little additional fuel at low rpms and lots of fuel at high rpms - just like an FMU does.
But an injector swap increases fuel ALL OVER. Great for a displacement increase (like 305 to 350 or 350 to 400). That is when you want an injector change instead of using a fuel pressure change.
Sorry, but you are going to have to bite the bullet and get the injector size in your eprom adjusted. There really is just no way around it.
Adjusting the AFPR will have it's greatest affects on fuel flow at WOT and it's least effect at Idle...exactly what you are trying to fix. An AFPR is great for someone who needs little additional fuel at low rpms and lots of fuel at high rpms - just like an FMU does.
But an injector swap increases fuel ALL OVER. Great for a displacement increase (like 305 to 350 or 350 to 400). That is when you want an injector change instead of using a fuel pressure change.
Sorry, but you are going to have to bite the bullet and get the injector size in your eprom adjusted. There really is just no way around it.
Sorry, but you are going to have to bite the bullet and get the injector size in your eprom adjusted. There really is just no way around it.
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BTW, the car will idle now, and seems like it's working nice except I'm getting code33 (low vac at MAP). Could this be from the higher lift?
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From: Baltimore, MD
Car: 09 Cobalt SS Sedan. 92 Z28 vert
Engine: 2.0T EFR6758; 5.0TT T3/T4 8psi
Transmission: F40; 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.76 LSD; 3.23 posi
The BLM's on the stock 16pph injectors were around 155 (not maxed out though). As you already know the story of my little brother's 88 bird....
The car has about 50k miles and we changed the fuel filter and ran fuel injection cleaner through it because the BLMs seemed way too high, they dropped by about 3 points (2.3%) after that (151-153).
When I added the 24pph LT1 injectors, it wouldn't even start. My brother saw that I left the brake booster line off by accident. I hooked it up and it started, but barely ran. I stopped cranking it and played around with a screwdriver to make sure all the injector plugs were pluged in. I felt the exhaust manifold and I think it was running on 2 cylinders. I restarted the motor and it ran noticably better, but still like crap (like it had a massive cam idleing too low). I played around with the screwdriver while it was running and I tapped on one of the injectors and the whole engine smoothed out a bit. I figured it was a stuck injector. While it was still running I went around and jabbed the rest of the injectors pretty hard with the screwdriver, the last one of the six made the whole engine smooth out perfectly. It had a slight lope since it was running pretty rich, but by the time it hit closed loop it was idling with a slight steam coming out of the tailpipes, but only half the time. At this time the BLMs were bottomed out at 105 I think, and the integrator was in the low 120's.
Maybe you have stuck injector(s) (open or closed).
As you probably already know I multiplied the injector table in the chip by .77 and it ran great. The motor was bone stock except the injectors, and that was the ONLY change I made to the stock bin.
Daves12secV6 was able to make 255rwhp on a bone stock 3.1L engine and chip with a turbo (6-7psi) and 19pph injectors. AFR's around 12:1
By the way, the turbo project should be finished tonight. I've been crammed for time since I was sick last week, busy over the weekend and my last semester of school started today.
The car has about 50k miles and we changed the fuel filter and ran fuel injection cleaner through it because the BLMs seemed way too high, they dropped by about 3 points (2.3%) after that (151-153).
When I added the 24pph LT1 injectors, it wouldn't even start. My brother saw that I left the brake booster line off by accident. I hooked it up and it started, but barely ran. I stopped cranking it and played around with a screwdriver to make sure all the injector plugs were pluged in. I felt the exhaust manifold and I think it was running on 2 cylinders. I restarted the motor and it ran noticably better, but still like crap (like it had a massive cam idleing too low). I played around with the screwdriver while it was running and I tapped on one of the injectors and the whole engine smoothed out a bit. I figured it was a stuck injector. While it was still running I went around and jabbed the rest of the injectors pretty hard with the screwdriver, the last one of the six made the whole engine smooth out perfectly. It had a slight lope since it was running pretty rich, but by the time it hit closed loop it was idling with a slight steam coming out of the tailpipes, but only half the time. At this time the BLMs were bottomed out at 105 I think, and the integrator was in the low 120's.
Maybe you have stuck injector(s) (open or closed).
As you probably already know I multiplied the injector table in the chip by .77 and it ran great. The motor was bone stock except the injectors, and that was the ONLY change I made to the stock bin.
Daves12secV6 was able to make 255rwhp on a bone stock 3.1L engine and chip with a turbo (6-7psi) and 19pph injectors. AFR's around 12:1
By the way, the turbo project should be finished tonight. I've been crammed for time since I was sick last week, busy over the weekend and my last semester of school started today.
The car is running fine now with low fuel pressure. My problem is the 33code. All the injectors are working, the lope is from the 1.7rockers I put on.
This happened after your chip? My car wouldn't idle with the booster line on!LOL.
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I haven't decided on what I'm going to do about the computer tuning (aftermarket or GM). My delema is that I own different make vehicles, and would like to have something standardized (like MS). Unless it's cheap/easy enough to burn my own proms. What kind of start up cost am I looking at?
When I added the 24pph LT1 injectors, it wouldn't even start. My brother saw that I left the brake booster line off by accident. I hooked it up and it started, but barely ran. I stopped cranking it and played around with a screwdriver to make sure all the injector plugs were pluged in. I felt the exhaust manifold and I think it was running on 2 cylinders. I restarted the motor and it ran noticably better, but still like crap (like it had a massive cam idleing too low). I played around with the screwdriver while it was running and I tapped on one of the injectors and the whole engine smoothed out a bit. I figured it was a stuck injector. While it was still running I went around and jabbed the rest of the injectors pretty hard with the screwdriver, the last one of the six made the whole engine smooth out perfectly. It had a slight lope since it was running pretty rich, but by the time it hit closed loop it was idling with a slight steam coming out of the tailpipes, but only half the time. At this time the BLMs were bottomed out at 105 I think, and the integrator was in the low 120's.
.
I haven't decided on what I'm going to do about the computer tuning (aftermarket or GM). My delema is that I own different make vehicles, and would like to have something standardized (like MS). Unless it's cheap/easy enough to burn my own proms. What kind of start up cost am I looking at?
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 841
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From: Baltimore, MD
Car: 09 Cobalt SS Sedan. 92 Z28 vert
Engine: 2.0T EFR6758; 5.0TT T3/T4 8psi
Transmission: F40; 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.76 LSD; 3.23 posi
All of that was with the stock chip.
from moates.net:
it was $30 for the adapter, $5 for the chip, and like $80 for the burner. All software needed is free or included.
an ALDL interface cable cost me about $7 to build using WINALDL.
edit: this is for a MAF car though
from moates.net:
it was $30 for the adapter, $5 for the chip, and like $80 for the burner. All software needed is free or included.
an ALDL interface cable cost me about $7 to build using WINALDL.
edit: this is for a MAF car though
Last edited by ttypecamaro; Jan 24, 2007 at 03:32 PM.
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Update on the car:
Runs Killer! You will get code 33 if the MAP isn't hooked up! Discovered today (got home early and the sun was still out, lol) that I mistakenly hooked up the HVAC vacuum line instead of the MAP, and viola! Imagine that, the car didn't run right without a MAP, haha.
how much of a difference did those 1.7 rockers make power wise,now that u have the map hooked back up does it still lope at idle,and if so can ya get a sound recording or video with sound of it?
Not real lopy, but a noticeable bump compared to stock. I'll let you know tom after I get back from the track.
Haven't got the fuel dialed in just yet, but we will see.
Haven't got the fuel dialed in just yet, but we will see.
Stupid rain, T&T cancelled. Cold front comming through (means rain) and it's going to be like 65*-75* tomorrow. Track testing will have to wait untill next Wed. I do feel a little difference in the butt dyno, but I won't believe it untill I see numbers. As far as the lope, It's slightly noticeable with the stock cam rythm (low overlap). With my door open at idle the end of it jumps a little.
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