We'll after a year of sitting I finally drug my butt out there and put the car back together. I got it to start but only if I keep my foot on the gas. It sounded like a lawnmower. bad! I may have to adjust the lifters agian but if I can get it to run I can do it while it runs.

What are the two fittings on the bottom of the 2.8 TB? One of mine is broke and the other doesn't have anything hooked to it.
The gas smelled bad, I imagine that could be a part of it also. If I don't have a timing light should the plug by the blower motor be unhooked or hooked? I know it has to be unhooked when you time the car.

If you can think of anything else I need to check please let me know.

 

Does anyone have a diagram for the rear hatch wiring? I can't figure out how to hook it up.

 

Those two connections at the bottom of the TB are for heating the TB up so the buterfly doesn't freeze in cold weather. There are two connections right below the TB on the intake manifold. There are just hoses that connect to the TB from the manifold.

 

Okay, this is going to be a long one.

First, redo the lifters. They should be adjusted (with DRY pushrods so you can actually hold them) so that you turn the nuts another quarter turn after the pushrod stops moving up and down. NO MORE, NO LESS. Any more, you're losing compression, and less, the valve isn't opening far enough.
Second, you need to adjust the timing with that connector unplugged, to 10* before TDC. You may need to sand a little bit of rust off of your timing scale to read it. Then, mark the WIDE line on the damper and the 10* mark on the tab so you can actually see them, and line them up. Remember, the #1 plug is the front PASS side plug, not the other way around.

 

We'll they were dry after a year of sitting. I did the technique of lifting up and down on the rods, not spinning them. Autozone site says to tighten a turn and a half to seat the pushrod on the lifter. It worked better than any other way I've tired.
Right now it tries and tries to fire but won't. If it is trying I can put my foot on the pedal and it will start for a brief second. I did have it running but it sounded so bad that I stopped. I really think the fuel is most of the problem. but I could be wrong.

 

I've done a compression test after turn and a half, and it's too much. Turn and a quarter gave me 160+PSI on all six cyls, less for more or less turns. I used to adjust the valves using only a compression gauge, since I couldn't hold onto the pushrods. Second, AZ site gets it's info from Chilton's, and I don't think many on here trust them for info. Third, go out and get a couple of gallons of REAL gas. If that don't work, one or more of your injectors are probably plugged from having set with bad gas for so long.

 

if i remember my engines class correctly you are supposed to twist the pushrods with your fingers while tightening the nut until they stop twisting and than do a quarter to a half turn more and your done. as for autozone they dont know anything.

 

I tried the twisting way and I could keep turning the rods and I would get them to tight. So, I could just turn the nuts a 1/4 turn back and that should be fine? Do you think I am ok on the way I stabbed the dist? If I am getting it to fire I can't be that far off correct?

 

Do what you will. I learned the hard way to do it right the first time, since using that method left ALL of my valves hanging open (that doesnt sound good, BTW). Like I said, I learned this way by using a compression gauge.

Next time, when someone on here has to replace their head gasket(s), try removing the head(s) without touching the valves. Then, you don't need a prybar to get the head off.. the valve springs do it for you, and you get the added benefit of not having to adjust the valves .

As for micali, I would try restarting with the valve lash, since you may not get expected results with just backing the nuts off a quarter turn, and try turning the dizzy as you are running the engine (wear a heavy glove or you're going to get zapped), until it runs smooth, and then check the timing. Also, what you can do is put the crank pulley on 10* BTDC, and set the dizzy so that a particular terminal is being set up with the rotor (I use the one in the #1 cylinder position, front and to the pass side). This should get you close enough to at least run the engine. but, I wouldn't do anything before resetting the valves, because they may be the problem, and you have to put the valve covers back on before you even try to start the engine.

 

sent pm to maverick hl1 see compression good or bad

 

No, this is a misunderstanding that seems to be getting passed around. You only need to feel slight resistance while twisting. This should give you about .010" play. If they are dry, then yes move them up and down till they almost stop.

In theory it's a good idea, but getting it back together is a pain. Good for removal, though.

I also vote bad gas as a problem. I deal with it every time we have a hurricane because nobody lets their generator run out of gas before storing it for next year. I used to try to clean the fuel system (do you know how hard that varnish gets when gass evaporates?), I just have been replacing the carb on them now to make a fast job of it.

 

You'll still have to adjust the valves when you put the intake gasket on to put the intake back on. Good idea for removal though.