I had to replace the rear brake line that runs from the front valve to the rear T. I can't get the brakes to build pressure. I'd imagine that it will take a little bit of pump'n to get the fluid to the rear brake. I get fluid to the ps rear but not to the dr rear.

I noticed that when I push on the cover, after it is completely on, for the master cylinder, I hear air escaping. I'm wondering if that is ok? Can anyone tell me if there's does this?

 

Bleed the brakes passenger side rear first . Have and assistance pump them up about ten times then hold the pedal to the floor open the bleeder then close it. Repeat until you get a steady stream no air bubbles.

Then go to the drivers side and bleeed them again pump up about ten times have assistance hold the pedal to the floor and then open the bleeder then after no more fluid comes out close the valve and repeat bleed procedure.

This works also to make sure you get all the fluidn out. Get a clean water bottle. and a clear plastic hose aquarium tubbing. Fill up clean plastic bottle with brake fluid. Put one end of the tubbing in the bottle in the brake fluid and one end on the bleed hole.

While your bleeding you can look and see when you have removed all the air in the system. Ensure you blee3d both front and back brake sto ensure that you ahve removed all the air.

I dont think the air escaping as you put on the cover is anything to worry about

 

I know how to bleed a system, that's not the problem. I know that air escaping when I put on the MC cover is no big deal, it's gotto go somewhere. The thing I am not sure of after the lid is on, I can take my finger and push on the center of the lid and I can hear air sound. I don't know if it's escaping around the seal of the MC or inside. I wonder if someone else was to try this would there's do the same thing.

I can't build any pressure it seems. Once yo pump the brakes and hold them, they do not move when I open the valve. My wife was pushing as hard as she could and they never moved.

I also noticed that when I step on the brakes while the car is running, the motor idle changes. One time I thought it was going to stall the motor. It hasn't done that agian, but it does slow the motor down a bit when I jam on them.

 

Sounds like the proportioning valve is stuck. I have sometimes had luck stomping on the pedal with all the bleeders closed, if it works you should hear a thump when the prop resets. The right way to reset it is to bleed all 4 in the right order but it sounds like you have done that. you could also try tapping on the prop with a hammer to free tho shuttle if it happens to be cocked in the bore, then either re-bleed or nail the pedal fast and hard.



Sometimes it is possible when bleeding the brakes the pedal can get pumped to fast and actually breakup any air bubbles and saturate the fluid, if that happens bleeding of any type will take a looong time. You could also try gravity bleeding, open the bleeders in the right sequence with the cap off the MC without touching the pedal, it might take longer but it does work.

Good luck take your time and don't rush. You will get it.

 

It took about two hours but I finally got the brakes done. I let them gravity bleed for a bit and then did the fronts. I noticed that when I bled the fronts the brake pedal would go all the way to the floor but when I did the rears they didn't seem to move.
When my friend would hold the brake while I loosened the rear valve, fluid would come out but not in a rush, just a little at a time and the pedal wouldn't go to the floor. It never moved. Why would that be?

The brake light is now out and I took it for a spin and it seemed to be ok. It might have been better but really nothing to compare it too.