I am still wondering about my oil pressure. I've tested it let it run for 25 mins and got the motor to above 200 and the psi at idles was 10-11psi at 2000 rpms it was 40+. I wonder if the oil pressure would drop anymore if I was to drive it instead of letting it sit at idle? Or would it be the same since the motor was up to OP temp.

I've noticed a small noise that seems to be coming from the lower end. I am wondering it it could be noise from the lifter that is ticking? It doesn't get faster when I give it gas like a main would. I could be making more out of it than it really is. I tend to over listen with my cars. Sometimes I don't notice it but when it is cold I can hear the lifter and the other noise.

Also, My car shakes when it first starts up. The idle goes up and then comes down as the motor warms up and the shaking gets less. When I put it in gear I have this vibration that is felt all over. I feel it in all gears until it shifts into OD and then it smooths out. If I take it out of OD I can feel it agian.
Sometimes the tranny won't go into park. The motor acts likes it is in N but if I get out I can rol it back and forth. IF I shut it off in R it will then click into park. Sometimes it will act normal and go into park without putting it into R first. I think the tranny is about gone in my opp.

 

I know I'm a new member, and still a gearhead noob, but here's my 2 cents. Make sure you check your oil, preferably when the motor is warm and has just been running, if that's not the problem, then it sounds like a warn out oil pump, I WOULDN'T run it anymore with with only 10 psi, you could cause major damage. For the ticking sound, if you're talking about the lower end, that's were the oil pump is, you would have EFI, so I don't know if you have a mechanical fuel pump on the driver side of your engine, but on my carb'd 2.8 that's were mine is. If you still suspect a ticking lifter, you should take off the valve cover on the suspected side of the engine and make sure the rocker arm adjusting nut for that lifter is torqued to spec. if it is, than tighten and test in small increments until the ticking goes away.

for the shaking, this is just a theory, but if your transmission fluid is full, and you're still getting the shaking, it might be the torque converter. It makes sense logically since that's were all interaction between the engine and transmission takes place when it's in gear. You could get a new or used one for not too much, i don't want to say how much since price estimates from people (especially me) tend to be way off for other people, but if you take it to a shop for the torque converter, expect to pay hefty labor costs. at least 500 dollars for labor
When you shut off the engine in R, it probably doesn't click into park, it's still in gear (R) the reason why you can't push the car is because you are not only pushing the car, but also trying to turn the transmission also, and in a low gear like reverse, you have to turn over a lot of mass relatively quickly for every revolution of the car tires. It's almost as steadfast as P on flatland, especially on larger engined vehicles.
I would definitely get some more experienced advice though, but I hope that I was able to help a little

 

I know from other members that 10psi is what the pump should run at. That is normal pump pressure. I might just hook up the oil pressure tester and drive it and see what the pressure is then.

I am going to adjust the lifters agian and see if that will help. The lifters are manual so you cant torque them down they have to be adjusted.

My buddy suggested the torque converter also. I might try it that would be cheaper then just replacing the tranny.

Thanks for your ideas.

 

ok, I was just worried, I didn't want you to have to go through what I'm going through, It's been like 6 months since I've driven my Camaro and a rod bearing spun so I've been rebuilding my engine off and on now for months, and I only owned the car for 3 weeks prior to it failing, so I guess I don't remember what idle Oil pressure should be at, sorry, glad you caught that. So, your psi should remain the same whether it's being driven or just parked, that seems fine. About the lifters, are those aftermarket then? cause I do have rocker arm adjustment nuts and OEM lifters in my stock motor. Well, anyways, I'm glad I was able to be a positive influence.

 

I drove the car home today and pulled the oil pressure guage and hooked up a manual guage and the psi at idle was at 9psi and at 2000rpms was at 35psi.

From what I've been reading for every 1000rpms you should have 10 psi. It sounds like I am ok.