On my 3.1 I am setting the valves and I know you set them to 0 lash by spinning them until you feel resistance then do a 3/4 turn.

Issue is I just did the first set and a few minutes later I go to do the others and the valves I just set spin again.

I have not found anything that talks about how the pushrods should feel after doing the valve lash but mine were tight then a few minutes later they spin again.

 

Were you doing it by the book? You are supposed to do them in a certain order. Either way I think that they free up a little bit after you spin the motor again. There is a thread somwhere here discussing how to set lash correctly. When I had to set mine I did the 3/4 turn after 0 lash but the rockers were still too loose. Another argument for proper lash is 1 1/4 turn after 0 lash and it worked for me.

 

Well I was using this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...198-post8.html

I have a haynes manual and honestly it never says how far to turn after you feel resistance nor does it say anything about if the push rods should still spin even after the final turn or if they should be stiff with no spin.

I have searched on here for hours the past week and you see 3/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 1 1/2 turn, 1/4 turn etc.... possibly the 3/4 turn just isn't enough? I just want to make sure things are correct as these motors as you know are a pain to get back to the rockers once it's all back together.

The 3/4 turn seemed good but I lost confidence in it when the pushrods a min. later could spin again.

*EDIT* I did just find this on the Automotive Repair Reference Center website. It shows to do 1 1/2 turn after.

 

I can still spin mine but they won't spin "freely". The motor will still run fine with them a little loose but you will have some valve clatter.

 

Most of the time the book doesn't account for well worn parts or assembly lube on the contact points. If you go by spinning the pushrods and then a full turn or more usually the valves will be cranked open and you'll have multiple dead cylinders. When all else fails, do one rocker at a time starting at the front or the rear and working your way to the opposite end. Disconnect your coil wire and have a helper bump the ignition while you're pushing down on the pushrod/lifter. When you feel the lifter stop dropping down you're on the base circle of the cam, off the lobes. Tighten the rocker till there is zero lash. Try lifting the pushrod off the lifter, it should be in contact with both the lifter and the rocker without preloading the lifter, then tighten another 1/2, 3/4, or full turn. In my opinion less is more since it'll run ok a little loose. Just do them one at a time till they're all where you want them. If you're really concerned about getting em right you can roll through them a second time to double check your setting.

 

There is a certain order you have to adjust thes valves. Not like a V8 where you can go down the line.

 

No there isn't. For each rocker, bump the engine till you're on the base circle of the camshaft. The order shown in the book is telling you which lifters are on the base circle when the engine is at TDC, turning the crank, turns the cam, lining up the other lifters on the base circle. The problem you run into with the book sequence is people lose track of where they're at and adjust the wrong rocker. By doing them one at a time it makes it deadly simple and you can make positively sure the lifter is bottomed out before you set the valve. The only downside is you spend more time cranking the engine.

And you guys wonder why I assume no one on the V6 forum has a clue.

 

I see what you are saying now, didn't exactly say that the first time.