Cjbrown0318

Man this thing is wild. It would give me a good laugh to see it goin down the road. Not in a bad way of course. Just a very artistic approach you see going on there that you don't normally see. Love that rear tach to. Nice craftsmanship. I like it!

5speed88

your car looks sick as hell dude, love the notchback and side vents

84CAMARO28inFL

Fuzion HRi.


They get spinned/smoked when the car acts right.

Gumby

I moved two of the HRI's to the back of my V8 car and have been impressed how well they hook in the wet and weather.

IROC-Z 383 TPI

I just bought an 84 Z that had the fuzions on it. Surprisingly theyre not bad, even in the snow. One question though... whats the point of the tach in the back?

Gumby

see post 27
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...60-post27.html

Gumby

And yea the rain n snow traction has been nice, I could take off allot better in the rain then my previous tires. [same routes where I would spin to no where easy, I could now just go] I was sure the large tread blocks would of made it worse but nope, they bite/dig hard.

Id buy more or again.

Gumby

TomP does it again.

I got to check out his suggestion in another post about those squeeze on quick connects that comes with tach's and how he said his was cut in two by one after a while.

Went and checked and I only had 4 strands of wire left, cut spliced and repaired, started right up.

Gumby

Had some funny smells, thought maybe exhaust was leakiing and getting sucked in somewhere. noticed some drips on the front frame, was oily gas. Turned on the FP and there was a very slow drip going. Traced it up top to just under the brake line loops. [real easy access, not] Just a tiny hint of a leak, the act of just taking the two clamps off that hold them down broke it in half.

That whole section right under there looks nasty while the rest is ok looking, why I never noticed, its hidden under wire bundles and brake stuff. Which also holds moisture.

camarosrock1989

iTrader: (1)

I think one of the hottest birds I have ever seen!

Gumby

Thankx
-----------


Tip for everyone, drain your tank when working with fuel lines, even with the nose up higher then the tank, the gas keeps coming out, tried blowing it back into the tank with an air hose, can hear it bubble in the tank but it flows right back out both lines.

stock sizes are
3/8 feed
5/16 return

Gumby

Well that was work, and don't ya know it, now the weather has cooled off.

But its good to crawl under the car and get familar with things ever so often.

Gumby

parking it early for the 3rd yr in a row.

1 ccp solinode
2 then coil wire for tach
3 this time i fed up my back n right leg.

gonna miss $20 fillin up half a tank n driving all over.

back to $20 a 1/4 tank v8 coughin as i pass every station.

Gumby

Quick connects strike again. That’s what they give you with a fuel pump kit.

Messed up my spark years later using them, and now my fuel pump.

Scary part is I dunno why it didn’t explode.

I had to literally cut back the power wire a good inch to find metal.
The wire had burned or melted back. And the juice was either flowing through the fuel jumping the gap or arching the gap.

Now Im stuck to where if it does work fine once back in, do I trust it?

Or put in a new pump anyways. Or buy a cheap $40 pump and just carry it around.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

The exploding thing is kind of a myth. You definitely do have the ability to catch fire and then slowly burn the whole car up, though.

To make it blow up you need dynamite or C4.

Anyway, I think since you have the fuel pump out, you should take your time and solder and shrink tube the wiring to the sending unit.

I also think you should put the Turbo T/A or Grand National pump in it (also listed as the Vortec pump from the late 90's pickups with the 350). There's no doubt that the pump took a hit from the low voltage/high amperage condition of having that connection starting to burn.

Good luck man!

Gumby

Lets time line run this down again.

One day my brakes went to shiet, hard pedal with no stopping power unless I lean on them hard. [I do member the rear locking up once]

Folks suggested it was the MC and the fluid in it was nasty.

So while changing the MC,
I warrantee and exchanged my calipers and brake pads as I could.

I also put on a new set of rotors. [drilled and slotted]

No change in operation.

Other suggestion that the nasty fluid in old MC messed up the prop valve.

Prop valve has been changed with no change in brakes.

Last part left was the brake booster, changed it today and no change.

Changed rubber lines today also just incase I had a funny internal blockage that can happen with them.

Still no change.

Have run near a whole gallon of fluid through no problem bleeding them and no change.


Every part of the brake system is "new" all except hard lines, which I have no clue how they could be the problem.


Tossing money and parts at it has gone no where, now what???

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

have you even verified that the booster is getting and holding proper vacuum from the engine? sounds like you have no pressure assist to the brakes, since that will cause the pedal to be hard and make it very hard to get the car to stop without standing on the brakes.

Gumby

Of course, vacuum from plenum will suck your finger off.

boosters n vavle is new.

jahblah

Mann, i saw this on google images last night while searching for exterior ideas for my 91. I was like.."OMGGGG this is AWESOOOOME!!!" sooo, i am now going to use your car as a template for some ideas of mine. LOVE the notchback/vent combo too Id love to "borrow" that idea lol but im sure its not as easy as seen in the pictures And that hood blends in well. its not overpowering the body at all. Do you plan on doing any other mods? Love the matte black color by the way

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Did you get the brakes fixed or is it up for the winter early now?

BigKeg

I had the same thing happen to me in my cutlass ....even went and bought a vacuum canister to add to the breake booster ....when I took it apart ..I noticed the check valve on the booster was cracked and the rubber garment was worn ...so went and bought new check valve and garment ....everything was good after that ....

Gumby

Well you know IM back at it again this year

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...orgetting.html

amazing how I can put her away and running wise, she is always ready to go at 225,000 miles. With gas going nuts it will be the main ride for a while. Have to do more miles but im already showing 23.3MPG right out of the gate so far.

Soon as the weather clears up for more then a day, Im gonna go at the rear wheel arches with a flap wheel and start replacing metal, little fiberglass work then new paint.

hoping I can find a good left door in between.

Gumby

Never had a washer resivor and of course stock washer motor was fried out.

Stole the small washer resivor from a S15 which has a motor installed in the bottom. Found a nice place to tuck it in and bolt it to the fender.

clean windows any time I want, only 13 years later

TomP

Glad to see your ride's still holding up! ( I tried to help with your brakes message)

Gumby

Had a funny problem today, front left driving/parking light isn't working, which makes the left turn signals not blink.
when lights are on, left arrow on dash stays lite up, bulbs are fine, even switched em right to left to test, left will still "blink" if I do it by hand, only a 2 prong blinker is used so its not it, right blinks as normal. not a fuse....

Also working on the heater hoses, those section of metal between on the frame rail was rusted through. Cold snap showd up n I need heat now too

TomP

Rust strikes again I got rid of mine many many years ago (1996 actually), a few years ago I changed those hoses to the braided steel ones, used these Made4You clamps to hold them together by the exhaust http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...ounting-Clamps

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Its usually a ground problem for me when it does that. The front lights are not grounded properly and the light sockets do get worn out. If you don't have high enough amperage running through the circuit it won't make the turn signal flasher hot enough to trip and flash.

Gumby

GF thinks Im made of money so Im gonna snag the hoses off the S15, same setup but were full rubber to engine. Will use a section of tin as a heat shield since exhaust is so close.

nice having a spare "car" with lots of the same parts.

next on my brake job if all new parts again didn't fix it, was to swap the brake system off it.

Gumby

Well there is the right way and my way. The right way wasn’t getting me anywhere so….

I cut the brown wire for the left front parking lamp, which then lets all 4 turn signals and flashers work as normal, no more arrow on the dash, but no power to left front parking lamp. 30” piece of wire from the brown wire for the right front parking lamp, run over to the left front parking lamp socket….

Walla, now all lights, light up and flash as expected.

Also did a little gold-bondo work n hole repair, more for vanity sake as I still want those wide body rear fenders and the area Im fixing is cut out when those are installed.

Gumby

my way worked for about a day then it came back, and was a lose ground at the socket but also a bad bulb in the rear that I guess worked against me at first and why I could get anywhere the first time around. After a bumpy ride the rear bulb finally burnt out and revealed itself, wiring is all back to stock.

gonna spend a few bucks and replace all my bulbs as its time to wet sand and re-clear the taillights again, that 99cent walmart clear only lasted 7-8 years

Gumby

I am more and more confident about my brakes and I have to say the best part of all was a set of $10 copper metallic pads from autozone. The super fancy $70 lifetime warranty ones I had sucked, no bite at all and showed very little wear, new pads went in with little work.

Forget the fancy pads people. Probably was the first mistake many years ago, same set of pad I bought when things first went bad. Also that odd noise that sounded like a metal rod draggin on the ground went away when coasting, guessing those fancy pads were so full of "hard" metal the pads light drag on the rotors did that, also why it didn't stop well, it really did have no braking power like when a set of pads wear down till its just metal to metal.

Had some fun tonight too and stretched her legs out, kinda, most can tell the car is a sike out kinda, looks faster then it is, kinda nice when folks give me room to get by, drop a gear n lose the pack on the eway. They don't even wanna try

some reason when Im in the station wagon that never happens, they always want to race. Needless to say its the wrong move
[why do people think their SUV is fast???]


was quiet pleased though, I didn't get any odd tire vibration till around 85-90 as I mounted all 4 tires myself and haven't had them balanced yet

two fronts went on by hand, so new and soft I didn't need a pry bar, running 205/70/15s front, 225/60/15 rear, fronts are only a hard nipple taller and they have that classic fat sidewall look, gonna duplicate it in the rear but need a wider rim then stock, but a 10in rim is to wide. Rim needs to be as wide as tread block width or a hair wider to achieve that look.

Gumby

wish I could hold and look at one of these to see how I could mount it as a replacement air dam with two fog light ports.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cst/full.aspx?Page=78
Part # 29-9832 AIR DEFLECTOR-BLACK PLASTIC

width is right, my S15 has the more square one up top.

I wanna get some amber fog lamps up front, but don't want them to hang from under the nose, done that before, want more molded in, only option up front would be a custom license plate bracket and have them rally style two side by side in the center.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I get a nice fat sidewall look with stock 15 inch aluminum wheels. I run 235/60/15 at all four corners with those rims and they never rub. Handles much better too with the extra tread hitting the pavement. Later I traded up to 245/50ZR16 on the stock 16 inch Formula wheels. Also no rub at all ever.

Have you ever run the 235/60-15 on your rims? We started running them back when we lived down in Van Wert and never went back to the skinny stuff.

Gumby

get some Alston SFC, wih no body roll I can make 90* turns at speed and only thing that happens is I get tossed out of my seat

Gumby

While putting the rubber S15 heater hoses on there I noticed the starter wires / fuseable links were touching the exaust, and probably for its whole life and only a tiny spot sort of melted on one of the link covers.

but anyways I went through the hello of wrapping that section of exhaust with header wrap plus a tin shield from the top.

Then got the rubber hoses put on and tucked away with their own tin shield for the small section that gets close, had a piece left and put a tin shield on the new brass prop valve since its close on the other side.

So now I got heat if I need it just in time for summer

pretty dead set on painting it matte black in the next week or so. wait for a string of decent days and do it one section at a time since it will be outdoors like I paint all my cars. [can legaly do 3 a yr with no booth per EPA]

Gumby

There were two plastic blocks bolted to the frame just in front of the rad support, no idea what they are or were for, but they made a great place to mount the fog lights. Putting them back under the nose sort of hidden but still below yet up out of the way. [no curb grind]

Gumby

^ ahhh those worked out well, I can see a good full lane width plus beyond the edge of the road, lights up turns well.. back under the nose some was the ticket.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Nice tip.

I see my V6 bird getting a similar setup in the future. Nice job!

Gumby

Odd how little paint it takes to re-paint a car when the base is fine.[just dull]

bought a gallon, lucky if I used half a quart and Ive done the notch, rear bumper, R door, both front fender and the nose.

I did it that way so I could do a small section at a time, also I was able to use my mini 4oz detail gun that worked great, wasn't no worries about over spray like if I got out the big HVLP [but no way the mini will do for the main body section, roof and hood]

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...gun-92126.html

Gumby

new paint

Gumby

always consider road vibrations, two items don't have to touch, just be close.

FI fuel lines right there next to the resivor, have bumped and rubbed a hole into it ahh-boot half way down the tank.

Gumby

Oh just braggin, one of them newer hopped up forign cars that looks like it has a 20K body kit factory, Im like this guy is nuts ridin my bumper in the turn lane, I was only doing 30 in 3rd when I pulled onto the eway ramp and just stuffed it to the floor, and steadily pulled away, speedo was burried deep when I noticed them give up and fade back.

230,000+ miles, 13 years of my ownership, still making me smile at will, thats why GM is #1.

Gumby

Another one of my years old ideas is gonna happen ???

I need to remove the center section, sand and repaint it, along with polishing the yellow off the plastic on the tach.



Gonna finally attempt to add a gear indicator light with the tach.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120925949671...84.m1438.l2649



Will just use this cheap indicator made for motorcycles, has 5 speeds and N, just no R, but maybe later I can build or re program one to make an R.

the car ones cost way to much and are just for autos [not even close]

no clue yet how im gonna make it work, my old idea was always to use a ground activated system, maybe if I can find a T5 pattern shift plate with slots, use rubber fingers on micro flip switches for the gear slots???

maybe use a relay of sort so N is always on, unless in a gear.

bright white back up lights probably make seeing R a mute point.

Gumby

bad idler n pitman?

Kingsobieski

Probably just a bad idler arm. They're not very expensive, I think like $20-30. You will need a puller to separate the idler from the center link.

Gumby

Since rockauto was giving them away, I got a new center link and idler arm for now...

Kingsobieski

Good idea. Depending on the condition of the rest of the steering - its a lot less labor intensive to replace the entire steering system since it pretty much unbolts with 5 bolts or so - no need to separate anything since the new steering parts go together cleanly. Also - I think the center link is probably the most costly part of it all. When I did my Cutlass it was around $300 for all Moog steering parts :O

Gumby

tie rods ends and the ball joints are like new tight, only slop I can find is in the center link parts n idler arm.

Gumby

Well beised not having a 18mm, even though I got 900 sockets n wrenches of all the other sizes it went ok. Idler arm bolts were PITA though.

All the slop is gone, I haven't fully tested it yet, around town is fine. Yet to go on the eway.
----------

Got my gear indicator light today


Dunno why I didn't see it, but now that I have the thing it is ground activated.

Making it 100% easier with my original idea.

make a plastic plate with lead blocks, ill weld a point onto the shifter fore n aft, wire for each gear will run to a block, that is ground isolated, until I put it into gear and the metal point stabs the lead, grounding the lead for said gear through the tranny, simple........

Gumby

I left a guy dumb founded tonight, he was loading up his van at walmart while his family waited to leave.

I pulled up and the guy stopped mid loading and just stared like he saw a naked lady. When I got out, he was still staring, gave me a quick eye glance then back to the car. I got all the way to the door and the guy is still there motionless looking at it. But now the kids have their heads poked out to see what up with dad.

Im sure he took a cell pic, either to make fun of it or to share it. I have gone well out of my way to make it my own, none other like it. Not always everyone taste.

Still enjoyed it.