Every time I change the oil, it sounds like the valve train is chattering/clicking excessively. This condition comes and goes. Hot weather or cold. I let the last lot of oil stay in the motor longer than usual, 4000+ miles so it started getting noisy before the oil/filter change. And remains noisy after the change. Sometimes worse than others. Now, according to the gauge, the oil pressure is pretty consistant. Always at the halfway mark or slightly above. The car has 162,xxx on the odometer, and I am pretty sure the heads have been pulled off before. You know those little telltale signs that someone took it apart and did not put everything back exactly the way it was. Um... you know, like broken exhaust manifold bolts... Two of them... There are no leaks, so I took the advice of a wise man and did not mess with them
Also, when I pulled the UIM to replace my perforated fuel pressure regulator last year, I found quite a bit of oil deposits in the #1 and #3 intake runners. Fresh too.
Any input is greatly appreciated, as always. Thanks.

 

Does this happen every time you start the engine? If so, it may be that your lifters have excessive oil bleed-down and they need to refill with oil before they work properly.
Or, you have excessive play in the valve train. Next time you pull the valve covers, you may want to readjust your valve lash, just for grins.

 

That is what is weird, it does not seem to happen consistantly. Guess I need to turn the stereo down and pay more attention to the motor LOL. I have never adjusted valves before. This should be an experience...
Any ideas why I have the oil in the intake?

 

Your PCV system needs service if you have oil in the intake. Try replacing the PCV valve. If the crankcase pressure gets to be too much higher, you'll have much BIGGER problems to worry about than chattering valves and oil in the intake... Blown gaskets, burning oil all the time, excessive oil loss/consumption, etc...
Also check the pipe that runs from the pass side valve cover to the intake bellows and the pipe between the rear intake nip and the PCV valve for blockage.
When you adjust the valves, clean the pushrods REALLY GOOD, so you can actually grip them. Using a 15mm deep socket and a breaker bar (this is very important, breaker bar is more sensitive than the ratchet) When the pushrods can't move any more vertically (between the lifter and the rocker), tighten the nut an additional 1/4 turn and move on to the next one. This works only on CLOSED valves.