ok im about to check the oil coolant trans oil steering fluid and rear-end fluid
i just got some NGK v power spark plugs

i would just like to know what you guy use
like K&N oil filter or royal purple oil stuff like that i just need so help because i want the best of the best oo and by the way i run with syn oil but im very open to suggestions.

 

All my gm rides I use...

Delco Plugs (have tried others, these seem to be best)
Valvoline oil
Delco Filters (I dispise fram)
Air filters.. depends on the car. One has delco, one has K&N, 2 has cheapo papers.

Fluids.
Try to use prestone antifreeze(dont always)
brakes, valvoline dot4 synthetic
PS, trans, axle... dont recall.

 

what u thank of the syn oil high mileage and full syn now i have 130xxx so idon't if i in the high mile ring yet ooo and additve like restore with csl, zmax what u use to guys

 

Oil: 0W30, synthetic for my daily. The 'bird gets 5W30 "dino" oil as it has 175000+ miles.
Trans: mobil1 ATF
Diff: Redline
Power steering: Mobil

I'm not a fan of the "engine rebuild in a bottle". Seems like mechanics would be out of work if those claims were true.

 

Well I'm a mechanic and I stay busy... but some additives can cause more problems than they solve (like block sealer, or stuff designed to swell gaskets). More often than not the problem is simply neglect. Although I've seen some additives that really work well, like restore. Brought compression up across all cylinders on my 'maro. I use royal purple whenever possible, and valvoline elsewhere. Irridum plugs because they keep the same heat range throughout service life and paper k&n filters. Get some 8mm plug wires, not the cheap 7mm stuff most places have.

 

For my build (2.8 Stroker), I'm currently using Platinum 4+ plugs, Royal Purple 10W30, K&N air and oil filters. Soon to switch to Aurora 8.8 mm plug wires.

 

well i used restore when i first got the car but here a question n should u use it everytime u get and oil change or just when something a miss compress wise to u can rebuild the motor

mmm i nees to find so 8mm plug wires then and how do u all fell on Royal Purple oil?

 

I dont use synthetic oils because of price and how often you change it. Now I will use it on brakes, trans, axle, etc. Your not changing that stuff every few months.

Plus I hear if you go to synthetic, you have to stay that way on the motor. I never know what my life may bring. I may not beable to change my own oils in a few months, so why limit myself to where I can take it?

 

ooo and one more thing lol i just keep finding new stuff everyday lok
engine flush i had used this once and did notice a thing that was over 5 years a go so what u guys think

 

They say the same thing about detergent/non-detergent oils. All my vehicles are swapped to Castrol GTX and high mileage synthetic blend for the worn truck (just finally let a head gasket after 200k hard-beaten miles) and never had problems.

bl85c, how do you feel about the Lucas etc additives?

And don't waste your time on the Fram filters, I've had several leak up until they were crushed from tightening them so much. I like Wix, hand tight is good enough...

 

I read an article one time that said that higher mileage engines shouldn't get synthetic oil. Something about the molecules in syn are smaller so you tend to get more leaks and/or burn more oil, than if you used regular oil.
I read that a while ago and never used synthetic on my engine...don't know if its true, but I didn't want to take the chance. Now once my engine is built and broke in I will start using synthetic.

 

well i been use syn for 5 years in this car no leak i never changed any gaskets i have 130xxx im going to rebuild at 150xxx and im run NOS i may have to change them gasket sooner then i think i just wanted some advice on this because i was talking at the local auto part store and there was like 5 old school guy talking to some new school guy about oil how zmax was bullshit how syn is the best thing since A/c lol

 

If your car already has a bunch of miles on it, then DO NOT switch over to a synthetic oil. Here's why: A conventional oil will, over time, soak into the rubber on your seals and cause them to swell slightly. The seals wear with this 'swell' in them, and that is how they stay. When you change to a synthetic oil, the synthetic oil will slowly strip the old oil out of your seals, which will then shrink and harden. This could cause your old seals to start leaking.

This does not just happen to cars, either. In the factory where I work we always use a semi-synthetic coolant. We have a lot of old machines, and it is universally recognized that if we changed to a full synthetic coolant then a lot of our machines would start leaking in places where they are not leaking now.

As for filters... MOST of the filters available are made by about 2 or 3 different manufacturers, and are just painted and branded differently. I read a report where they cut apart a bunch of filters, and the FRAM was the absolute cheapest filter of them all. The end piece that forces oil to go through the filter paper on the opposite end of the filter is made out of a cardboard material on the Fram filters! None of the others were made this way.

I always use Havoline 10W-30 conventional oil, and an AC-Delco oil filter. My car has 210K miles on it. I change it every 5,000 miles. My dad's 1991 Sonoma 2.8 liter 5 speed has been done the same way. Before we finally retired it, it had 355,000 on the clock, and has never had the valve covers off of it!

 

First of all, use spell check!!!

The type of oil is not going to make a difference in a daily driver car. With a daily driver car you just need to use OEM parts and fluids, don't waste your money on the really expensive stuff. Full synthetic oil is good for some engines but not all, really kind of depends how many miles are on your engine, and you don't want to keep switching back and forth between conventional and full synthetic.
And my stay away from high mileage oil

 

ok i got so

1. royal purple 5w-30
2. K&N oil fiter
3. royal purple Max-Gear
4. royal purple Max ATF
5. Purple Ice
6. royal purple Max EZ
7. i had to got some peak antifreeze royal purple don't make coolant lol

and it cost me about $39 good thing happen when u know the manger of the store

ooo want let me spell check because the INTERNET is a spelling bee

 

High mileage oils are synthetic blend and have larger molecules...

 

I've never had a problem with lucas additives and as far as I can tell they live up to their claims. The whole notion of smaller and larger oil molecules in oil being able to 'slip through' your seals easier or wearing out your bearings faster or any of the other bunk people come up with is just asinine. I haven't seen a single engine start leaking because you used synthetic vs standard (mineral derived) oil. There is some credibility to what pontiacguy1 said though, standard oils do contain more seal conditioners than synthetics do. No prob switching between them either, just avoid certain brands. Penzoil for example puts a type of wax in their oil that's great at making sludge deposits. And fyi, avoid bosch plugs. Expensive garbage- the tip of the electrode is 1/3 the size of your typical plug, just barely polking out of the ceramic jacket. Basically it's just a restrictive nozzle.
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Oh, and restore reccomends putting a can in with every oil change (so they can sell more) but you really don't need to. Eventually it will wear away again and your compression will drop, but I put it in every other oil change. I use seafoam whenever I 'flush' an engine. Be careful with 'flush' additives, some engines with heavy deposits will leak after they're stripped away. Only use a 1/3 in the oil, run it for 1/2 hour then change the oil with a new filter. Put another 1/3 in the gas tank and 1/3 through the vac booster line to 'decarbonize' the intake, valves, combustion chamber ect.

 

i just hate the smoke that seafoam kicks out i can just hear the police or fireman say we put out ur car with the 2000+ psi fire hose lets just say we give u a paint job -.- and have a nice day

 

Well...no. But it does help us help you if we can understand what you're saying without having to use our "Little Orphan Annie" decoder rings.

And with the whole seafoam thing...I'm sure if you're standing there, and tell the firemen what you're doing, they wont spray your car. I used seafoam on my car in a residential area...normally if you're standing with the car and not panicking, people assume that everything is ok.

 

nice car gets castrol syntec, iridium plugs, accel wires and coil, and although I've been using the Fram X2 filter, I've been reading so many awful things about Fram that I'm considering upgrading to bosch...

everything else gets castrol gtx, autolite coppers, cheapy wires and stock coil... also use fram paper filters, but this is the same as above...

peak is the coolant, prestone is good too. I've been using valvoline power steering, prestone brake fluid (both synthetic)... The trans fluid I've been using is also valvoline. I don't honestly have allot of knowledge on rear def fluid, I use the walmart stuff on the v6 rear, firebird has valvoline, considering using mobil one next change...

air filter is a k&n in the bird, and something like powerstroke or power flow? in the v6... fram is fine for stock air box imo...

 

Hehe, last time I seafoamed an engine I took it out for a spin to get that crap worked through quicker and left a nice thick cloud whenever I took off. Some guy was tailing me for a while so I put it in neutral and made sure he couldn't see me pull away.